Never ending axle service

Discussion in 'VA/DC/MD- Capital Land Cruiser Club' started by iptman, Aug 8, 2015.

  1. OTRAMM

    OTRAMM Supporting Vendor

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    We usually use a 9-53 step torque process. Your'e way overthinking install of a giant chunk of iron designed in the 40's. Snug 4 of them in an "x" and then just go around in a circle. :)
     
  2. iptman

    iptman

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    Thanks Ryan. So 53 is the final torque spec? I couldn't find it in the FSM but found 34 in the 40 FAQ (who knows where from though).
     
  3. OTRAMM

    OTRAMM Supporting Vendor

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    No I was joking about your two step process. I'd have to look up the actual spec. We just tighten them by feel.
     
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  4. iptman

    iptman

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    Carrier wire brushed and painted. I'll let it dry for a couple hours and put it in tonight. I believe I figured out which was the front/back 3rd based on how mine look. On mine the front is coated with a layer of oil and grease and the back is scaly rust. So I assume the same thing happened with these. The wife is coming home tomorrow so the clock is ticking on getting this all buttoned up.

    IMG_20180208_155709420.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
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  5. Stumpalama

    Stumpalama Forum Junkie SILVER Star

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    :rofl::bang::rimshot::hillbilly:
     
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  6. Stumpalama

    Stumpalama Forum Junkie SILVER Star

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    There is no difference between front and back... Though, if I were you, I would put the "front" in the back, and vice versa. The idea being that the original front won't have as much wear due to part time 4wd (seriously).
     
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  7. iptman

    iptman

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    That's the plan. I was initially hoping to run the yellow paint on the ring and pinion and put the better of the 2 patterns in the back but I couldn't find any of that compound locally. I also have another thing to source locally thanks to the younger Mr. Bascom's recently posted video on the knuckle shims. Luckily the local Grainger has the marking paint in stock for the scribe line for the alignment tool. I figure the tool kit should probably come with it anyway for the next guy who wants to use it.
     
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  8. OTRAMM

    OTRAMM Supporting Vendor

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    I put a small tube of the yellow gear marking compound in your knuckle kit. The Marlin seals are in there too!
     
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  9. iptman

    iptman

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    Sweet! Thanks Ryan.

    I got the front 3rd in with only minor trouble. When I lifted it up only a couple holes on the DS slipped over studs. The PS holes were all off just a little. I tried to wiggle it to no avail. I then slid the floor jack under that side and lifted it a bit. That did align the studs but I still couldn't seat the carrier so out came the bfh and bingo, on it went. I was able to get my torque wrench in there and finish up with Ryan's patented 9 step decahedron pattern 3rd member tightening process. :flipoff2:

    IMG_20180208_201915139.jpg
     
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  10. mwalls54

    mwalls54 Cruiser Nutjob SILVER Star

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    I have seen toothpaste to check wear pattern. And cheapest knuckle alignment tool paint I have used is rustoleum surveying paint. Home Depot or Lowe’s usually have it by the lumber entrance for like $4
     
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  11. shmukster

    shmukster

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    I always use an OEM paper gasket when installing a third member. If you have to get a third member off that's been siliconed on you'll lose your religion. They're often difficult enough to pop loose. Never bothered to torque the nuts either and never had a leak or a problem. And of all the knuckles I've disassembled I've never seen one with all the shims on either the top or the bottom. Yes the total number of shims determines the bearing preload and the number of shims split between the top and bottom in whatever combination is correct position the knuckle in proper (or improper as the case may be) vertical relationship centerline-wise with the axle housing.

    For reference (only) I checked the shims on a set of FJ60 knuckles I currently have on the bench. Here's what they had when I pulled them apart: Driver side top (3 shims) total thickness .081", bottom one shim .041" Passenger side top 2 shims total thickness .055" bottom one shim .041".
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2018
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  12. iptman

    iptman

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    Well guess what.... After following Ryan's axle rebuild video he just posted I came up with numbers for shims in all 4 places. :bang:. Ah well, live and learn. Now I just need to clean up my axles and hubs, put it all back together and start prepping for Relic Run. :bounce:

    IMG_20180209_221203624.jpg
     
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  13. iptman

    iptman

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    Knuckles on, that's it for tonight.

    IMG_20180210_000322695.jpg
     
  14. OTRAMM

    OTRAMM Supporting Vendor

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    Are you done yet? Your mom said you'd be in big trouble if it was still in the garage when your wife got home :)
     
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  15. iptman

    iptman

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    Axles in. I had to remove and separate the short side after I realized I put the birf cage in upside down. That was a 3 hour detour of futility. My zip tie trick for the cir clip took about a dozen tries after I had nailed it on the first go round on the short side. And separating the short side took an hour to get the snap ring off. Oh well. All I'm saying is I better have done the axle alignment right. I don't want to do this job again for a while. And neither does the wife. IMG_20180210_191526797.jpg .
     
  16. Stumpalama

    Stumpalama Forum Junkie SILVER Star

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    Martack would have made it a ten minute job...:moon::flipoff2:
     
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  17. iptman

    iptman

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    I got the hubs, rotors and lock outs on. I just need to degrease everything, put the calipers back on and add gear oil to the diff. And of course clean up the garage.

    IMG_20180210_211319440.jpg
     
  18. iptman

    iptman

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    Trust me, I definitely was contemplating giving you a call to help me do that.
     
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  19. iptman

    iptman

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    And......done! Now I just need to swap my rear 3rd and I'll be good to go.

    IMG_20180211_170239990.jpg
     
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