Need to Make a Decision... (1 Viewer)

[leonard_nemoy]

Keep the gray one and do what @Nemesis1207 said.

Harrrop in the back and keep the front open.

Goodluck and I look forward to seeing this thing get built and photos from the pan america trip.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Keep the one in the best condition and never look back.

This.

You can never fully make up for shìtty maintenance.
And rust is a hard no for me.

I've had good experience with factory lockers, but not sure they'd be the deciding factor

 

[mudgudgeon]

Keep the gray one and do what @Nemesis1207 said.

Harrrop in the back and keep the front open.

Goodluck and I look forward to seeing this thing get built and photos from the pan america trip.

I'd go Harrop (or ARB) in the front, and Aussie locker in the rear to save a few bucks, or Harrop (or ARB) in both
I think front locker is often more useful than rear

 

[mudgudgeon]

Pretty sure you can't even get a new rear axle for the locked models anymore.

This is what I have found.
You're stuck sourcing used, or aftermarket

 

[Dusten]

I'd go Harrop (or ARB) in the front, and Aussie locker in the rear to save a few bucks, or Harrop (or ARB) in both
I think front locker is often more useful than rear

This is my plan. I'm going lunch box in the rear and e-locker front.

 

[Widenbruck]

The mention of rust could point to the deciding factor for me, were I in your situation. Where is this rust? Is it in body panels, rockers or just a bit of surface rust on rear undercarriage hardware? If it's in the body or very extensive in any area I'd likely pass it along to someone more motivated to deal with it than I would be. If it's just some undercarriage surface rust I'd look to clean, convert/treat and then fluid film asap to stop it before it becomes a bigger problem.

The single stage white paint will be easier to maintain and live with, compared to the two stage gray, and if it's acceptable now an occasional polish/wax should be all it takes to keep it looking good for a long time. The gray paint looks like it already has failing clear coat which will only get worse. Is that something that bothers you? If it bothers you the cost of addressing the paint is likely multiple times larger than any other item being discussed including adding lockers, paying for rust treatment, baselining, etc. If the gray paint is acceptable to you now I'd look to keep it covered with something that protects it from further degradation (uv protector/wax of some sort) so that it doesn't get any worse.

I generally prefer newer ODB2 1FZFE 80s and I think that '94 - '95 was when the transition happened with most (all?) of the '95s being ODB2. Does your '95 have an A343 transmission and ODB2? If it does not this would be a big motivator for keeping the '96 and selling the '95 in my opinion as I'm sure the '96 is ODB2/etc.

I agree that factory lockers aren't as good as properly setup aftermarket options that you can get today. For occasional and pretty casual use I love knowing that my factory lockers are there and they have always worked well when I've needed them. They are a bit slow to engage/disengage typically but I'm more of a "don't tear up the wet grass" than a "climb that rock wall" user so the difference is irrelevant.

Good luck deciding

Thanks, I appreciate your thoughts. I don't care much about the paint (you are correct, the gray one has some sun damage). Both vehicles are OBD2 equipped. Regarding rust, none of it is body or structural. Just rust on the underside components (axles, brake lines, sway bar, etc.) .Nothing that couldn't be fixed with some patience.

 

[Widenbruck]

If it was me Id keep the white one and restore/build to your sepc. Provided the mentioned rust isn't too bad.

If the Gray one is really that nice, you should try and let someone keep it nice. I'm just guessing but I bet a Pan American trip (sounds awesome BTW) won't make the cruiser any nicer.

I keep coming back to this option, yes. Rust is completely fixable, its not in the body or frame. Chances are the Panam trip will take a toll on the suspension and paint, but nothing too serious.

 

[Widenbruck]

Thanks for all the opinions, very helpful. I'll post when I finally make the decision. It shouldn't be that hard for god's sake!

 

[cvenom96]

Like most said. I'd keep the gray one and sell the locked one. Add e-lockers along w/ the other goodies and you're set. Mine isn't locked and it's gone far beyond what I expected. That being said, it will get e-lockers eventually.

The mention of rust, whether structural or not, is enough to turn me off at this point. I've fixed a fair amount of rust on mine plus it makes doing anything underneath a pain in the rear. Typically it's the first time it's been apart either since new or a long long time so bolts break, it looks like hell, and just generally makes simple jobs a headache.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I'd go Harrop (or ARB) in the front, and Aussie locker in the rear to save a few bucks, or Harrop (or ARB) in both
I think front locker is often more useful than rear

This is my plan. I'm going lunch box in the rear and e-locker front.

I ran a Detroit in the rear of my 91 for 5 years. For the most part it worked great. But, if I got on a slippery off camber slope in the snow or mud it was game over.

My buddies stock 98 Tacoma with all terrains drove up a muddy dougway to our spring turkey camp and my cruiser with 35 mt's couldn't make it because the rear auto locker kept pulling me sideways off the dougway rd.

Auto lockers work great until they don't work great, than they become dangerous.

For a rig that is doing a pan america trip I would not want a locker that I couldn't turn off. Lots of muddy roads in south america.

 

[Dusten]

I ran a Detroit in the rear of my 91 for 5 years. For the most part it worked great. But, if I got on a slippery off camber slope in the snow or mud it was game over.

My buddies stock 98 Tacoma with all terrains drove up a muddy dougway to our spring turkey camp and my cruiser with 35 mt's couldn't make it because the rear auto locker kept pulling me sideways off the dougway rd.

Auto lockers work great until they don't work great, than they become dangerous.

For a rig that is doing a pan america trip I would not want a locker that I couldn't turn off. Lots of muddy roads in south america.

I've only ever wheeled Detroit lockers as I've been to poor for selectable lockers. So that's all I know.

 

[Widenbruck]

I ran a Detroit in the rear of my 91 for 5 years. For the most part it worked great. But, if I got on a slippery off camber slope in the snow or mud it was game over.

My buddies stock 98 Tacoma with all terrains drove up a muddy dougway to our spring turkey camp and my cruiser with 35 mt's couldn't make it because the rear auto locker kept pulling me sideways off the dougway rd.

Auto lockers work great until they don't work great, than they become dangerous.

For a rig that is doing a pan america trip I would not want a locker that I couldn't turn off. Lots of muddy roads in south america.

Excellent point, thanks. I was planning to go with manual lockers anyway.

 

[cruiserdan]

The white one will be an easy sell if you leave the axles in it. If you take them out it will be more difficult to move. Especially when prospective buyers that know what they are looking at see a K294 on the door tag and no locking axles.

This would be way different if the donor was a roach.

 

[bicycleagent003]

I'm with the consensus, put a Harrop rear locker in the gray one and sell the white one.
I haven't found that a front locker is more useful than a rear locker, in my limited experience. I would be inclined to go with a rear locker and a winch up front for comparable money.

 

[Widenbruck]

I'm with the consensus, put a Harrop rear locker in the gray one and sell the white one.
I haven't found that a front locker is more useful than a rear locker, in my limited experience. I would be inclined to go with a rear locker and a winch up front for comparable money.

Winch is happening, regardless.

 

[suzuguru]

Personally, I would keep the one without rust, and add aftermarket lockers.

 

[Feldrian]

Always dump rusty first.

When you add lockers I'd always recommend selectable. I have experience with spools, lunch box lockers, detroits, powerlock posis so tight they may as well have been a locker and ARBs. Been the most happy with ARBs. I've never had the opportunity to run a Harrop, but ultimately the same idea as the ARB without needing an air source. Not sure if there's a difference in connection (air -v- electric) as far as simplicity and rigidity, both of which I'd be looking for if I was driving to Argentina.

 

[Widenbruck]

Always dump rusty first.

When you add lockers I'd always recommend selectable. I have experience with spools, lunch box lockers, detroits, powerlock posis so tight they may as well have been a locker and ARBs. Been the most happy with ARBs. I've never had the opportunity to run a Harrop, but ultimately the same idea as the ARB without needing an air source. Not sure if there's a difference in connection (air -v- electric) as far as simplicity and rigidity, both of which I'd be looking for if I was driving to Argentina.

Thanks, very useful input.