Need some sage advice

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Island Moose

Island Moose

Joined
Dec 2, 2004
Threads
126
Messages
821
Location
Tauranga New Zealand via Vancouver Island Canada
Hi guys,
I finished up classes for the year in June, and I've been working as a painter through the summer. As a result, I have a little money in my pocket for the first time in a while and I'd like to address the nagging drip from my BJ70.

To re-cap, I'm getting a drop-a-day on my driveway from the back of the motor (it drips down from the bellhousing, but it's obviously engine oil). Reliable sources have told me it's the rear engine seal. It's a very slow drip, but it's the only thing not perfect about the rig.

I need to know what is involved in changing this seal, what should be done at the same time (clutch?....140K kms on odometer), who might be able to do the work on Vancouver Island, and how much it might cost.

I've got a fully equipped shop at home, and I can do just about everything (did my own valves, wheel hubs etc) but I think the tranny must be dropped and God knows how I could do this without killing myself. I'd rather pay to have it done right.

Has anyone ever done this procedure?
 
do you have a rack that you can use and a transmission jack?if not get a garage to do it for you.but if its only a drop a day s*** man these cruisers love to leak at the rear seal.mine does but its not enough to worth worrying about.aroung here it would cost about 250 to have the seal changed.good luck
 
To do this you need to drop the transmission and transfer as a combination.
Here is the procedure:
-unbolt driveshafts (you'll need 2 14mm wrenches)
-unhook speedo cable and electrics (4wd sensor, reverse sensor, tach sensor)
-loosen engine mounts
-support bellhousing
-remove the tranny support (big pain in the neck, it removes to the front, not the rear)
-remove starter (after unhooking the battery)
-put transmission jack under tranny/transfer, and stabilize it well-this combo is heavy
-unbolt tranny from bellhousing
-wiggle back until input shaft frees from clutch/clutch bearing/input bearing
-remove
-remove clutch slave cylinder
-unbolt bellhousing
-remove clutch
-remove flywheel (have it resurfaced)
-take out input bearing (while cursing because it is such a hard job) you'll need a bearing puller, and in the 3B this bearing is small
-remove main seal
-put new main seal in (while cursing)
-put new input bearing in
-bolt up resurfaced flywheel
-bolt up new clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing
-make sure the clutch fork nd bearing are in correct orientation
-reverse all the above, while cursing a lot when liftuing the tranny transfer combo back up there. sometimes it is hard to get it back into the input bearing. make sure it is in gear, so you can turn the input shaft until it aligns. a clutch alignment tool will be very handy.

costs: 300 for new clutch, bearing and seal.

time: a good day for two of you with little experience

no idea what a shop would charge

hth
j
 
rainforrest652.jpg

When I rebuilt my gearbox and transfer case I used this motor cycle jack. It is very stable. However I have also used a single trolley jack with a piece of timber under the gearbox.
 
bigbrowndog said:
rainforrest652.jpg

When I rebuilt my gearbox and transfer case I used this motor cycle jack. It is very stable. However I have also used a single trolley jack with a piece of timber under the gearbox.
Click to expand...


I used to have one of those motorcycle lifts too, sold it when I bought a bike without lower frame rails.

I get the feeling I'm in over my head with this though...I can drop the tranny/transfer, even if I have to rent a lift, but I'm worried that I would screw up the clutch installation, or bearing install....hmmmm....I need to think about this.

BTW, I spot a big-brown-dog in that photo :D
 
Island Moose said:
I used to have one of those motorcycle lifts too, sold it when I bought a bike without lower frame rails.

I get the feeling I'm in over my head with this though...I can drop the tranny/transfer, even if I have to rent a lift, but I'm worried that I would screw up the clutch installation, or bearing install....hmmmm....I need to think about this.

BTW, I spot a big-brown-dog in that photo :D
Click to expand...

I think the big hurdle is removing/replacing the gearbox because of its bulk.

Clutch ,bearing and seal is easy(it was on the 3F and 1HZ)
 
roscoFJ73 said:
I think the big hurdle is removing/replacing the gearbox because of its bulk.

Clutch ,bearing and seal is easy(it was on the 3F and 1HZ)
Click to expand...

agreed. all easy with the manual.
j
 
but if you can not afford to have the truck down for an extended period and do not feel comfortable doing the job then find someone you trust to do it...
 
This pic will give you an idea of where the balance point of the gearbox /transfer case is, locate the timber here. I could not buy or hire a transmission jack here. But it is so easy with the jack in the picture the timber just lets you tilt it to adjust the angle of the box.
rainforrest630.jpg
 
The gearbox only needs to be undone and moved back far enough to fit the clutch and pressure plate in.Replace the rear main seal when you do the clutch. Just cut around the center with a box knife and pull it out and insert the new seal. Remove and replace the pilot/ spiggot bearing.
rainforrest639.jpg

rainforrest612.jpg
 
these days, clutch kits tend to come with a cheap ass plastic alignment tool, but if you're really stuck.....use a carrot.

I swapped trannies in my bj last summer with a crappy floor jack, a bad hangover and no help. took most of the day, but it's not that hard.

nothing technically difficult. just heavy.

I have a clutch job on my 40 to look forward to in the next few months...or sooner. It's possible I won't have a tub in the way at some point and I may wait for that.....:grinpimp:
 
im not in this situation but wow what great info from jan-78fj40 and great pics from bigbrowndog
 
champjack said:
im not in this situation but wow what great info from jan-78fj40 and great pics from bigbrowndog
Click to expand...


You're not kidding, thanks fellas.

Seapotato, I'm in Cobble Hill...when you're to do the work, let me know and I'll help out, it would be good to see how it's done.

John

jcmorrison@shaw.ca
 
Island Moose said:
You're not kidding, thanks fellas.

Seapotato, I'm in Cobble Hill...when you're to do the work, let me know and I'll help out, it would be good to see how it's done.

John

jcmorrison@shaw.ca
Click to expand...


heh, careful man, I may hold you to that, no one else is exactly lining up to experience the joys of lying under my greasy old cruiser....:flipoff2:
 
bigbrowndog said:
rainforrest650.jpg

Yep, the Doonga likes to help and will kill every gecko,lizard, wasp or fly that gets near his cruiser. Favourite trick is to use you as a pillow when you are under it.LOL what a dog. Ps Don't forget to bolt the gearbox back on.LOL.
Click to expand...

Is that a Bull Mastif, even if not nice looking mutt.
 
seapotato said:
these days, clutch kits tend to come with a cheap ass plastic alignment tool, but if you're really stuck.....use a carrot.

I swapped trannies in my bj last summer with a crappy floor jack, a bad hangover and no help. took most of the day, but it's not that hard.

nothing technically difficult. just heavy.

I have a clutch job on my 40 to look forward to in the next few months...or sooner. It's possible I won't have a tub in the way at some point and I may wait for that.....:grinpimp:
Click to expand...

Lottsa sweat hey kid............

Ya I have done it that way and it sucks, another set of hands are very helpfull.


Hard part seems to be aligning the input shaft while on your back and shuving the big peace of steel in with your feet and a pry bar.

Better dazzes ahead....

Rob
 
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