Need some recommendation for front brake pads (1 Viewer)

[J1000]

I've been really happy with the Powerstop Xtreme Tow brake pads and rotors I have on my truck for a couple years now. Super strong braking, even panic braking with a trailer I've never had such good brakes.

They are smooth quiet around town also, low dust no noise: https://amzn.to/394OSMH

Full kit with crossdrilled and slotted rotors: https://amzn.to/2QuGks4

 

[theferg]

Akebono is the OE manufacturer of the 100 series brake pad.

I can't say i know any different, but what i do know 100% is the akebonos I got from Napa warped my OEM Toyota rotors. And when I pulled the akebonos back out they had cracks in the material and chunks had broken off. And the material and coloring looked nothing like the OEM Toyota ones I put on. I won't try them ever again.

 

[Pucker5]

I have all my shims and parts sitting in a box for when i do the brakes again...I will go oem. I did fronts 20k miles ago so it shouldn’t be for a While. I have oem rears and centric fleets (composite aramid) on the front. Way too much dust in the front But that’s pretty aesthetic, they stop well.

anyways, my feeling is that if surface area is king there is no better than oem when you factor that surface area at the corner of after market pads is typically shaved. However, I find it oddly inefficient that Toyota would design a brake pad setup that needs that many shims. Seems that it creates additional variables when assessing brake issues. I’m sure someone will correct me in this thinking...I’m willing to be wrong for the sake of understanding this design methodology.

 

[yngmrostrvile]

I can't say i know any different, but what i do know 100% is the akebonos I got from Napa warped my OEM Toyota rotors. And when I pulled the akebonos back out they had cracks in the material and chunks had broken off. And the material and coloring looked nothing like the OEM Toyota ones I put on. I won't try them ever again.

Pads dont warp rotors. The pad might make contact with a rotor and cause it to overheat because a caliper or hose is defective, maybe a wheel bearing wasnt installed correctly.

 

[theferg]

Pads dont warp rotors. The pad might make contact with a rotor and cause it to overheat because a caliper or hose is defective, maybe a wheel bearing wasnt installed correctly.

There's always somebody that "knows better" than something somebody says on the internet. :rollseyes:

Look buddy, 65K on OEM pads and rotors without issue, put on akebonos, within 5k i can feel the warp starting, after 10k the s***e pads are cracked and broken and rotors are warped so badly it is intolerable to drive (stop). Calipers are working freely, nothing's stuck. and a defective brake hose is causing a warp rotor? are you serious? So, everything is totally fine for 65k other than my pads needs replaced. I replace pads with after market pads. End up with warped rotors. Pull the after market pads and they are cracked and pieces are falling off. And you want to say its suddenly a bad bearing install or a bad hose? Ok. Glad you're not the one working on my vehicles. You go right ahead and do you, and I'll do me.

 

[cmw]

Timely thread, as always here on Mud.

Was just looking at my brakes and shopping for pads online.

Any opinions on "better than OEM" rated pads? The Bosch front pads I was looking at are rated GG.

 

[MechE30]

There's always somebody that "knows better" than something somebody says on the internet. :rollseyes:

Look buddy, 65K on OEM pads and rotors without issue, put on akebonos, within 5k i can feel the warp starting, after 10k the s***e pads are cracked and broken and rotors are warped so badly it is intolerable to drive (stop). Calipers are working freely, nothing's stuck. and a defective brake hose is causing a warp rotor? are you serious? So, everything is totally fine for 65k other than my pads needs replaced. I replace pads with after market pads. End up with warped rotors. Pull the after market pads and they are cracked and pieces are falling off. And you want to say its suddenly a bad bearing install or a bad hose? Ok. Glad you're not the one working on my vehicles. You go right ahead and do you, and I'll do me.

Technically he’s right and you’re wrong. Rotors develop high and low spots, they do not deform, or warp as you’re repeatedly saying. But whatever verbiage we’re using, they pulsate and aren’t fun to use.

Brake Rotors Don't Warp

By declaring a customer's brake pedal pulsation complaint is caused by warped rotors is like saying the earth is flat. Both are cases where the observation of the person is based on a tiny piece of evidence that is false in nature and application.

www.brakeandfrontend.com

 

[OwnerCS]

Timely thread, as always here on Mud.

Was just looking at my brakes and shopping for pads online.

Any opinions on "better than OEM" rated pads? The Bosch front pads I was looking at are rated GG.

There are a few GG pads around for the 100 series. I think EBC Green are GG also. I know a guy that runs EBC green on a Tundra. He says they stop great. Just a little dusty.

I run Bosch QuietCast rotors on my Tacoma and love them.

 

[theferg]

Technically he’s right and you’re wrong. Rotors develop high and low spots, they do not deform, or warp as you’re repeatedly saying. But whatever verbiage we’re using, they pulsate and aren’t fun to use.

Brake Rotors Don't Warp

By declaring a customer's brake pedal pulsation complaint is caused by warped rotors is like saying the earth is flat. Both are cases where the observation of the person is based on a tiny piece of evidence that is false in nature and application.

www.brakeandfrontend.com

LOL. So I used the common word that *everybody* uses to indicate the rotors have high and low spots-- "warped". My comment still stands that the akebonos are s*** and ruined my OEM rotors and are *the cause* of the disfiguration of my rotors. If you want to be the simpsons commic book guy or not on the actual, correct term, go for it.

But that's not what the other guy was saying.... he's saying the pads couldn't have caused the issue. And to that I say, bull****. It was the cause in my issue.

And, oh, btw, before I went to new rotors, I pulled the s*** akebonos and put in brand new OEM pads and guess what?--my rotors were still f*cked. Now I have new rotors and new pads in and the problem has gone away. Imagine that?

 

[Pucker5]

I don’t know if @yngmrostrvile statement is fully correct but have the a Akebonos on my wife’s rx350 and my Acura TL and they work great. Did you resurface the rotor? Did you properly bed the pad? Did you fully bleed the brake lines? You may have so not trying to victim shame you just thinking about all the scenarios. I went with aftermarket fronts on new new Toyota oem rotors and thought the pads had warped the rotors but it turns out I hadn’t bled them well enough and it caused an ever so slight pulsation at braking that make me think the rotors had been warped.

you may have very well gotten a s***tay set of pads too!

edit: if you knew that old rotors typically have high/low spots (that your old pads were over time Worn/bedded to) why would you assume that a brand new set of pads (any brand) is just going to rock and roll on an old set of rotors without surface correction. You saying you put new yota pads on the old rotors and it was still poopoo just reinforces that It could very well
Have been the poor condition of your original rotors. Those yota pads would have Likely faced the same fate as the akebonos had you not swapped rotors

 

[MechE30]

LOL. So I used the common word that *everybody* uses to indicate the rotors have high and low spots-- "warped". My comment still stands that the akebonos are s*** and ruined my OEM rotors and are *the cause* of the disfiguration of my rotors. If you want to be the simpsons commic book guy or not on the actual, correct term, go for it.
But that's not what the other guy was saying.... he's saying the pads couldn't have caused the issue. And to that I say, bulls***. It was the cause in my issue.

And, oh, btw, before I went to new rotors, I pulled the s*** akebonos and put in brand new OEM pads and guess what?--my rotors were still f*cked. Now I have new rotors and new pads in and the problem has gone away. Imagine that?

Take a breather pal, nobody’s here to hurt your ego. I agreed with you, and hoped to inform about materials science. You’re on a tech forum, don’t be surprised when people get technical.

 

[theferg]

I've been changing my own brakes for 25 years now... and on at least 40 different vehicles I've owned in that time-frame. I literally have *never* resurfaced my rotors when I've changed the pads. If the rotors seemed bad enough that they needed work, its easier to just buy new ones and throw the old ones in the recycle bin--which I have done several times.. I also have literally *never* bled my brakes after changing pads. Is this a real thing? Cause even if it is, I'll never do it. I can see if you actually disconnected the caliper from the brakeline (or disconnected the brakeline elsewhere along the line) and introduced air into the sytem, and all I have to say to that is: but, why?

As to properly bedding, yes, I did. That *is* something that I literally have done every time I've changed my brake pads.

 

[theferg]

I don’t know if @yngmrostrvile
edit: if you knew that old rotors typically have high/low spots (that your old pads were over time Worn/bedded to) why would you assume that a brand new set of pads (any brand) is just going to rock and roll on an old set of rotors without surface correction. You saying you put new yota pads on the old rotors and it was still poopoo just reinforces that It could very well
Have been the poor condition of your original rotors. Those yota pads would have Likely faced the same fate as the akebonos had you not swapped rotors

I think the lines are getting crossed here..... Here's how it went:

1) bought used vehicle, replaced pads with OEM Toyota all around, bed pads
2) Drive 65k miles without any pulsation/warping issue
3) wear indicator starts to squeal upon braking
4) replaced pads with akebonos, bed pads
5) notice pulsation around 5k miles
6) after 10K miles, driving (stopping) is nigh unbearable
7) *suspect pads* since only put the 10k miles on and have *never* had any issue like this before on any vehicle I've owned and always used OEM Toyota pads
8) replace pads with OEM Toyota pads, bed pads
9) still have the issue, suspect rotors or something else is def screwed. put about 250 miles on it before parking it.
10) replace rotors with OEM and re-use the OEM pads. bed brakes.
11) truck drives awesome.

And to quote myself from right above: "I literally have *never* resurfaced my rotors when I've changed the pads. If the rotors seemed bad enough that they needed work, its easier to just buy new ones and throw the old ones in the recycle bin--which I have done several times."

So, I'm sure there's a hole in there that some ahole could poke, but I'll write it off before they even bother saying it cause I'm also factoring in the other 50 times I've changed brake pads and *never* had an issue until I tried the akebonos. Could it have been that the original rotors just magically started to suck at that time and they would have magically started to suck regardless of pad choice?---suuuuuuuuuurrrre. Could the issue perhaps come back on me later on?---suuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrre. Stay glued to your TV for the exciting conclusion on that one.

 

[Pucker5]

Your experience dictates your practices so congrats on 25 years of wrench work but I doubt putting new pads on old rotors that you put 65k on one set of pads and potentially miles more on a different set of pads Without surface correction Would be the best practice of a
Lot of mechanics.