Need some recommendation for front brake pads (1 Viewer)

[zhloea]

Hi, just went through the forums for finding some options about the front brake pads, but the result is not so clear:

I have an LC100 2004 and I want to replace my wheel bearing with brand new OEM brake rotors in the next couple of weeks, but I don't really want to use the OEM brake pads, because the hardware looks too complicated to me, so:
1. is there any other aftermarket brand that will meet the standard?
2. Do we have any post/thread listed all the OEM front brake pads hardware parts number?

Thank you for any suggestion.

 

[ramangain]

For OEM, you just need to order the "set" of 4 front brake pads and one shim "kit". I think it is just 2-3 separate part numbers

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Not sure what hardware you're referring to that's complicated. If you're replacing wheel bearings and rotors, then pads are pretty easy compared to those. Non-OEM pads use the same install, could be different materials, etc. if you search "brake pad recommendations", titles only, 100 section only, lots of threads, most say use OEM.

 

[yngmrostrvile]

Go down to or call your local N A P A, get a set of ake.act772s, a couple cans of brakleen, a qt of brakefluid, a tube of syliglide and maroon 3m scotchbriten pads. The brakleen and scotchbrite will clean up all your shims and hardware. Put the pins in your drill chuck and the 3m pad will fluff and buff everything nicely. Suck the brake fluid res out tip the qt of fluid upside down onto the res and start crackin bleeders.

 

[zhloea]

Go down to or call your local N A P A, get a set of ake.act772s, a couple cans of brakleen, a qt of brakefluid, a tube of syliglide and maroon 3m scotchbriten pads. The brakleen and scotchbrite will clean up all your shims and hardware. Put the pins in your drill chuck and the 3m pad will fluff and buff everything nicely. Suck the brake fluid res out tip the qt of fluid upside down onto the res and start crackin bleeders.

So it means I still need the old shims~This is the main part I am very confused with..., I did other cars brake pads, just bought them from amazon it comes with all you need..., but seems even I order ake.act772s, it just a set of pads without hardware...

 

[3_puppies]

Suck the brake fluid res out tip the qt of fluid upside down onto the res and start crackin bleeders.

open the bleeders??
no need to open the bleeders
c clamp on each pad will push the pistons back in

 

[zhloea]

Not sure what hardware you're referring to that's complicated. If you're replacing wheel bearings and rotors, then pads are pretty easy compared to those. Non-OEM pads use the same install, could be different materials, etc. if you search "brake pad recommendations", titles only, 100 section only, lots of threads, most say use OEM.

The complicated part is, for example, I ordered some BOSH brake pad for my honda fit, it comes with all I need, and the shim already on the brake pad, I just install all of the box, it will be done. But OEM for LC is totally different story, we need buy three set of stuff...then put them together if the parts are all right...

 

[yngmrostrvile]

They come with shims but I removed and reused the old.

 

[zhloea]

For OEM, you just need to order the "set" of 4 front brake pads and one shim "kit". I think it is just 2-3 separate part numbers

These are all I need right? (please ignore the dust shield) I think we'd better confirm this list, then some newbie like me will directly know what they are dealing with...

 

[yngmrostrvile]

Sure, but its 17 yrs old. It could use a fluid exchange Im sure.
C-clamp

 

[3_puppies]

if the clips don't come with the pads, I'd replace those.
usually the napa pads come with a hardware kit

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Not sure why you're replacing the dust shields, but ok. As for the shims, etc, I've reused everything on there for the past few brake jobs, no need to buy all new each time.

 

[zhloea]

Not sure why you're replacing the dust shields, but ok. As for the shims, etc, I've reused everything on there for the past few brake jobs, no need to buy all new each time.

I just mistakenly put the dust shields in the list, I will not change them. My LC does not come with shims...I can assume all those hardware, pads, rotors were aftermarket...that is why I am struggling with the order.

You could see from the pic below, there is a sharp bulge on the edge of the pad, this is a sign of "Overlapping Friction MaterialThe top edge of the pad overlaps the top of the rotor." The fix would be to "replace the pads and fit the vehicle with OE specification diameter rotors."

So seems we don't have good choice for aftermarket pads, then I need figure out what parts I have to order for this job...

 

[Pucker5]

Advics ad0772?

 

[theferg]

I'm never running anything other than the OEM pads if I've got OEM discs on. Ran my first set of OEM pads on OEM discs for about 65k miles. Never had any issue other than brake dust build up on the wheels. But I figured, hey, the truck is 15 years old, maybe there's better pads out there these days... So I looked around on here for recommendations on what folks were using and went with the recommended akebono pads from Napa. Ended up with severely warped rotors 10k later on those. The truck became unbearable to drive. So I decided to go back to OEM, and I iterally just finished today swapping in new OEM discs and pads. Took it out to bed them in and I am so happy to have the warped issue gone. I mean, time will tell how happy I continue to be, but like I said, I already did 65k on my first OEM discs and pads. I'll be sticking with OEM brakes for life.

Also, if you're doing the wheel bearings at the same time, double check you actually receive the correct wheel bearings and races *before* you start. I was doing wheel bearings at the same time too and 1.5 weeks into working on it every other day I finally figured out today why the damn axle shaft wasn't sticking out the end far enough to get the damn C clip back on at the outside of the drive flange--no, it wasn't just extra grease; no it wasn't just the CV seal not fully seating on the inner side of the hub; no it wasn't installer (myself) error; --it was a frickin incorrect sized race on the inner bearing! Took me 100 tries taking the hub assembly on and off to check and recheck and seat and reseat races and destroying 3 brand new dust seals, a star-lock-washer, and the brand new flange gasket, before I figured out to measure the races. And sure enough, both the new races I got were ~2.4mm too tall/wide/deep! So I just put it all back together with the old bearings and races (which are really still in great shape) and the new discs and rotors. Drives so great again, or should I say, it *stops* so great again!

 

[zhloea]

I'm never running anything other than the OEM pads if I've got OEM discs on. Ran my first set of OEM pads on OEM discs for about 65k miles. Never had any issue other than brake dust build up on the wheels. But I figured, hey, the truck is 15 years old, maybe there's better pads out there these days... So I looked around on here for recommendations on what folks were using and went with the recommended akebono pads from Napa. Ended up with severely warped rotors 10k in on those. The truck became unbearable to drive. So I decided back to OEM, and I iterally just finished today swapping in new OEM discs and pads. Took it out to bed them in and I am so happy to have the warped issue gone. I mean, time will tell how happy I continue to be, but like I said, I already did 65k on my first OEM discs and pads. I'll be sticking with OEM brakes for life.

already put a 300 bucks order for OEM pads and rotors, thanks man, definitely no better choice.

 

[zhloea]

I'm never running anything other than the OEM pads if I've got OEM discs on. Ran my first set of OEM pads on OEM discs for about 65k miles. Never had any issue other than brake dust build up on the wheels. But I figured, hey, the truck is 15 years old, maybe there's better pads out there these days... So I looked around on here for recommendations on what folks were using and went with the recommended akebono pads from Napa. Ended up with severely warped rotors 10k later on those. The truck became unbearable to drive. So I decided to go back to OEM, and I iterally just finished today swapping in new OEM discs and pads. Took it out to bed them in and I am so happy to have the warped issue gone. I mean, time will tell how happy I continue to be, but like I said, I already did 65k on my first OEM discs and pads. I'll be sticking with OEM brakes for life.

Also, if you're doing the wheel bearings at the same time, double check you actually receive the correct wheel bearings and races *before* you start. I was doing wheel bearings at the same time too and 1.5 weeks into working on it every other day I finally figured out today why the damn axle shaft wasn't sticking out the end far enough to get the damn C clip back on at the outside of the drive flange--no, it wasn't just extra grease; no it wasn't just the CV seal not fully seating on the inner side of the hub; no it wasn't installer (myself) error; --it was a frickin incorrect sized race on the inner bearing! Took me 100 tries taking the hub assembly on and off to check and recheck and seat and reseat races and destroying 3 brand new dust seals, a star-lock-washer, and the brand new flange gasket, before I figured out to measure the races. And sure enough, both the new races I got were ~2.4mm too tall/wide/deep! So I just put it all back together with the old bearings and races (which are really still in great shape) and the new discs and rotors. Drives so great again, or should I say, it *stops* so great again!

Man...where you got these bad bearing and races? I just order a kit from CruiserTeq as many people here did...

 

[yngmrostrvile]

Akebono is the OE manufacturer of the 100 series brake pad.

 

[OwnerCS]

The set of OEM pads that I recently purchased have a DOT friction rating that is FG. Most parts store and aftermarket OEM quality pads are rated FF. There are some specialty pads that are rated GG.

I was pleasantly surprised to see OEM pads with an FG rating.

Disc Brake Pad Friction Codes Explained​

Understanding Disc Brake Pad Friction Edge Codes and Markings

What is a Disc Brake Pad Friction Code, and How does it Relate to the Pad’s Stopping Power Potential?

www.hotrod.com

 

[ramangain]

They SHOULD be FH given the small swept area of the pad, radius of the rotor, and porkiness of the Hundy platform!