Need some help with electrical switch to trigger starter (1 Viewer)

[John Smith]

I could use some help from Ed and any of you who know more electrical than I do. From my best reading of the 79 FJ40 electrical wiring diagram, the starter is triggered by the ignition switch turned to the Start position, which is fed by the 15amp Engine fuse to the Black with white stripe wire. It appears to be 14awg to me, to match the 15amp fuse.

So I want to use this switch for my engine test stand, to trigger the starter, but can't make out if it is up to the task alone, or if I need to put a relay on it. I see what I think is a 10 AMP rating on the #3 feed connection on the left, but am confused by the Ui:600V, and output "AC15 and 240V-3A" on the right. This switch is part of switch panel I got off Amazon. With those high voltages it seems like it was made for AC use perhaps? Is there some conversion formula from AC to DC to determine the switch capacity? BTW, the switch circuit is activated by pressing the green arrow looking thing on top. This is pressed by a different LED lighted "Engine Start" button switch thing. Any insight is appreciated.

 

[Jakes40]

As long as it is a Toyota starter. You are energizing a coil that pushes out the bendix and (relay part) connects the battery to the starter. That switch will work for that. I use a generic push to exit button on my 40 that is rated for 5-10 amps.

 

[Stumpalama]

Like Chris said, don't over think it. I use a little 2 position, probably 10a rated switch wired direct from the battery to the starter relay solenoid to bump my engine.

 

[shmukster]

Damn, John, throw away that switch and spend three dollars and buy a cheap momentary switch. Or send me your address and I'll mail one down to you!

 

[emorth]

Agree with the all of the above replies. The specs on the switch are the maximums (voltage & current) which you will not come close to. No worries there. You mentioned an LED lit switch, since the switch appears to be intended for a higher voltage AC application, the LED won't work at 12 volts unless it is powered from another source (external circuit). If you would prefer to use a traditional panel mount push button switch, let me know. You could even use a door bell button with a relay. The relay would be necessary since the door bell button isn't made to handle that much current. Let me know how I can help.

 

[76FJ40]

Go for the door bell option.

 

[Stumpalama]

Damn, Mike, throw away that switch and spend three dollars and buy a cheap momentary switch. Or send me your address and I'll mail one down to you!

Meh, I have one of those too.

 

[John Smith]

Thanks for all the replies! It's a Toyota gear reduction starter on a 2F. I'll skip the relay. Ed, the LED switch I mentioned is a completely different switch. When you press the LED lit switch it physically presses that little green arrow thing on this switch to engage it.

 

[Tikicruiser]

I think I just got reminded of why I fell asleep during the Ham Radio prep course and nearly flunked the test. You lost me at first mention of the relay. However if the Ridgebeam in your attic is sagging I can help!

 

[Jakes40]

I used one of these! The switch inside is the same as what you have. If you use is in the cruiser it will corrode in 4-5 years and have to be replaced. I think that may be part at my starting issues.

 

[Stumpalama]

Thanks for all the replies! It's a Toyota gear reduction starter on a 2F. I'll skip the relay. Ed, the LED switch I mentioned is a completely different switch. When you press the LED lit switch it physically presses that little green arrow thing on this switch to engage it.

Sounds complicated, which equals bad for a 40...

 

[John Smith]

Sounds complicated, which equals bad for a 40...

No worries, this is only going to be installed on my engine test stand.