Need some advice please (1 Viewer)

[mochosla]

Hi everyone. So, I got this 1985 FJ60 that I bought from my neighbor. The car had been sitting for 10n years and was not running when I bought it. But after a lot of elbow grease, the car is finally running. Well, sort of. Here are the things I have done so far and the issues I've encountered:

Cleaned/repaired fuel tank (I'm putting a new one in)
New fuel filter and fresh high octane gas
Changed brake master cylinder
New battery
Replaced door window
Washed the upholstery(it was nasty but it actually came out very nice). I took out the carpet, disassembled the seats, washed it all and put it back together
Changed ignition coil and spark plugs (I'm waiting on new spark plug cables)
Checked compression. It ranges between 165, 155 and 150.
I've been looking at all the hoses going to the carburetor and they all seem to be there and connected
Oh yes. We gave it a good wash!!

Issues I'm having:
The car will not start without starting fluid. Once it starts, it stays running but it is a bit rough
The brakes still seem to have air in the lines even though I made sure all new brake fluid was coming out when I bled each wheel and no air bubbles. You have to pump them a couple of times for them to function well.
The power steering is not working. I added fluid and in the beginning, it worked fine but now it doesn't. I raised the car and turned 40 times back and forth thinking it had air.
There is an oil leak which I believe comes from the valve cover gasket as I see fresh oil in the very back on the cover and that is where the oil drips from.

Any thoughts on the starting issue (I believe it has to do with a dirty carburetor) and power steering?

 

[IslandJ]

I literally started my 85 fj60 today for the first time in 15 years. Its been in my possession for about a year.
As far as the starting issue, I'd say it could use a good rebuild. I took mine to Mark in Burbank. (Mark's Offroad).
I also replaced all my vacuum hoses and its not as daunting of a task as it looks like if you do them one by one.
I found some funky stuff going on with the hoses, Im glad I changed them out.

I'm learning as I go on this rig so thats all the knowledge I got for you.

What area are you in? I'm in Eagle Rock.

 

[mochosla]

Thank you. How much did the rebuild cost you?

 

[Infinity00]

There are lots of carb experts on here that could give great advice but until they respond, I'd definitely recommend rebuilding the carb or at the least pull the jets and clean them, shouldn't have to pull the carb to do that if I remember correctly. It's not a bad job to rebuild the carb. The leak in the back could be he cover, but there's also a plug back there that is known to leak. I didn't have that problem but others have. Great find! Good luck with it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Are you getting fuel to the carb? Pull the hose from the fuel pump to the carb and stick it in a bottle and try to crank it. If you get no gas, could be the pump if frozen or the diaphragm is too degraded from sitting.
Be sure to buy the Kyosan one. Don't try to be cheap. Take it from all of us... $80 some odd bucks is worth it. Be sure to use the old spacer (not just the paper gasket) that goes against the block or if it pulls off and is too degraded be sure to get a new one.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Also if it keeps running but is rough try an Okie rebuild. Basically have the carb open, truck running, be ready w/ a thick square of cardboard (small hole in the middle for the bolt) pull the throttle linkage then cover it fast to try to suffocate the carb which will cause it to stall and pull sediment through and clear the jets. Do this at least 5 times.

 

[g-man]

My guess is the carb jets are gummed up. You will need to remove the carb and rebuild. But try the fuel pump test as mentioned above by removing the fuel line from the carb and cranking while holding the line in a clear mason jar. Now you can see if you fuel is pumping efficiently and clean. Check the fuel in the site glass in the carb to make sure it is 1/2 way up the glass. If not it could be a bad float. 3rd step and really what prob needs to be done is remove and rebuild the carb making sure to clean the jets by soaking overnight in a high quality carb cleaner. (Liquid in a gallon can) the kind you buy with the basket. Not just spray cleaner.

 

[g-man]

Brakes...did you have another person pumping then holding the brake pedal down while you opened the bleeders? Did you start at the back first? When you bleed brakes you need to turn the bleeders about a 1/4 turn and hold for a second. You want to see a strong stream of brake fluid, not just weeping out. You may have to top off the master cylinder and go around again. Look for rusty brake lines. If so are they wet anywhere? If so they can rust thru and leak. If they still don't hold then you may have a bad master cylinder.

 

[4Cruisers]

If you rebuild the carburetor yourself, which isn't hard to do, a good source for the kit is Cruiser Outfitters. As mentioned above, buy a can of Berryman Chem-Dip, it makes cleaning the parts an easy and thorough job. If your accelerator pump plunger is the original leather version, you should reuse it - IIRC you soak it in oil for a while to rejuvenate the leather and swell it up so it fits tighter in the bore.

 

[mochosla]

Brakes...did you have another person pumping then holding the brake pedal down while you opened the bleeders? Did you start at the back first? When you bleed brakes you need to turn the bleeders about a 1/4 turn and hold for a second. You want to see a strong stream of brake fluid, not just weeping out. You may have to top off the master cylinder and go around again. Look for rusty brake lines. If so are they wet anywhere? If so they can rust thru and leak. If they still don't hold then you may have a bad master cylinder.

Yes, my wife was pumping the pedal and holding it for meto bleed the lines. I did not start at the back though. I did the farthest. Maybe that what I did wrong. The master cylinder is brand new. Brake lines look good though. I will bleed them again today and will start at the back.

 

[mochosla]

Are you getting fuel to the carb? Pull the hose from the fuel pump to the carb and stick it in a bottle and try to crank it. If you get no gas, could be the pump if frozen or the diaphragm is too degraded from sitting.
Be sure to buy the Kyosan one. Don't try to be cheap. Take it from all of us... $80 some odd bucks is worth it. Be sure to use the old spacer (not just the paper gasket) that goes against the block or if it pulls off and is too degraded be sure to get a new one.

Well, I'm going to assume the pump is working as once the car starts, it keeps on running and I can even drive it. It is just a bit rough. I'm thinking the issue will be a gummed up carburetor like the other guys are saying. I will just bite the bullet and order the kit.

One more question, how do guys handle the adjustment on the jets? I've done a few carburetors in my lifetime but jet adjustment has always been a guessing game.

Thank you all for the great recommendations.

 

[mochosla]

I literally started my 85 fj60 today for the first time in 15 years. Its been in my possession for about a year.
As far as the starting issue, I'd say it could use a good rebuild. I took mine to Mark in Burbank. (Mark's Offroad).
I also replaced all my vacuum hoses and its not as daunting of a task as it looks like if you do them one by one.
I found some funky stuff going on with the hoses, Im glad I changed them out.

I'm learning as I go on this rig so thats all the knowledge I got for you.

What area are you in? I'm in Eagle Rock.

Hi. I'm in Granada Hills in San Fernando Valley. I'm learning myself as well

 

[mochosla]

There are lots of carb experts on here that could give great advice but until they respond, I'd definitely recommend rebuilding the carb or at the least pull the jets and clean them, shouldn't have to pull the carb to do that if I remember correctly. It's not a bad job to rebuild the carb. The leak in the back could be he cover, but there's also a plug back there that is known to leak. I didn't have that problem but others have. Great find! Good luck with it.

Thanks. Do you by any chance know where the plug is located exactly? I will pull the air filter housing today and see if I can find it.

 

[4Cruisers]

Thanks. Do you by any chance know where the plug is located exactly? I will pull the air filter housing today and see if I can find it.

Galley plug, located on the side of the cylinder head on the passenger side, near the rear. A search here on MUD for "galley plug fix" will provide all you need to know. Usually though when it leaks it's a gusher and has ruined good 2Fs.

 

[g-man]

jets are brass pieces inside the carb that thread into place.

They have holes machined into them from the factory and are specific to the size of the carb..ie primary and secondary. They are not adjustable. Just put a big screwdriver in there and break them loose. Make sure you don't mix up the primary and secondary. They should have very small numbers inscribed in them on the side saying what size the hole is. I think you may be getting the air and fuel screws confused with the jets.

 

[mochosla]

jets are brass pieces inside the carb that thread into place.

They have holes machined into them from the factory and are specific to the size of the carb..ie primary and secondary. They are not adjustable. Just put a big screwdriver in there and break them loose. Make sure you don't mix up the primary and secondary. They should have very small numbers inscribed in them on the side saying what size the hole is. I think you may be getting the air and fuel screws confused with the jets.

Yes. That's what I meant. The air and fuel screws. Can I rebuild the carburetor and not touch those?

 

[g-man]

yes those fuel air mixture screws are in the base and will come out with the carb but as long as you don't put a screwdriver to them no problem. Make sure not to crank them down hard or put any pressure on them when seating. You will deform the needle point end. Just gently turn until they stop then out 1 1/4 turn. But no need to mess with them if they're in the right position.

Bigger issue is you need to learn how to remove your carb. You'll need to put both hands behind the carb (between the firewall and the carb) and flex the throttle forward while using the other hand to bend the throttle cable and pop the barrel shaped keeper at the end of the cable out of the linkage. Then you need to disconnect some other linkage at the bottom of the carb but toward the firewall where a ball joint goes into a rod. There is a pin you have to pull to remove this. You may want to color code or mark your vacuum lines before disconnecting unless you are familiar with where they go back. Also need to unplug the green electrical plug on the drivers side of the carb. This is the cut off solenoid. Take your time so you don't break the old brittle green connector. But if you do you can always replace it with male and female flat blade type connectors. You will need a magnet tool to get the check balls out of the carb and the small one has a keeper spring holding it so you need a very long narrow tweezer or pick to get that out. Just take your time. Download carb rebuild instructions. A search in the classified sections should yield free downloads of the toyota fsm(s) you need the 1980 2f engine repair manual and carb is section 6

 

[mochosla]

Galley plug, located on the side of the cylinder head on the passenger side, near the rear. A search here on MUD for "galley plug fix" will provide all you need to know. Usually though when it leaks it's a gusher and has ruined good 2Fs.

Thanks. Found what you are talking about. My oil leak is not from there. But now you got me thinking about replac

yes those fuel air mixture screws are in the base and will come out with the carb but as long as you don't put a screwdriver to them no problem. Make sure not to crank them down hard or put any pressure on them when seating. You will deform the needle point end. Just gently turn until they stop then out 1 1/4 turn. But no need to mess with them if they're in the right position.

Bigger issue is you need to learn how to remove your carb. You'll need to put both hands behind the carb (between the firewall and the carb) and flex the throttle forward while using the other hand to bend the throttle cable and pop the barrel shaped keeper at the end of the cable out of the linkage. Then you need to disconnect some other linkage at the bottom of the carb but toward the firewall where a ball joint goes into a rod. There is a pin you have to pull to remove this. You may want to color code or mark your vacuum lines before disconnecting unless you are familiar with where they go back. Also need to unplug the green electrical plug on the drivers side of the carb. This is the cut off solenoid. Take your time so you don't break the old brittle green connector. But if you do you can always replace it with male and female flat blade type connectors. You will need a magnet tool to get the check balls out of the carb and the small one has a keeper spring holding it so you need a very long narrow tweezer or pick to get that out. Just take your time. Download carb rebuild instructions. A search in the classified sections should yield free downloads of the toyota fsm(s) you need the 1980 2f engine repair manual and carb is section 6

Great advice. Thank you very much.

 

[kbfj621989]

Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder. I didn't do this when I changed mine and my brakes were soft.

 

[4Cruisers]

The galley plug fix is good cheap insurance against a potentially catastrophic loss.