Need input: 2F or V8? (2 Viewers)

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I'm doing a rebuild on my 1973 FJ40 (She's home again) which had and a V8 that I put in around the mid-80's. The engine needs rebuilt and has been torn apart and sitting wrapped up in plastic for years. Hopefully everything is still here. I have all the mods to handle the V8 attached to my 3 speed.

I have a lead on a running 2F from a 1986 FJ60 with 4 speed and transfer case for $600. Needs a new harmonic balancer.

So my questions are:
Will the 2F easily fit my 1973 FJ40, if not, how much work or why not?
What mods would be needed?
If the 4 speed won't work, what's needed to mate it to my 3 speed?
Can I still get parts to install the 2F (mounts that type of thing)?
Would it be better to keep a V8 since that's what it had? Drive shafts were modified for the V8.

I actually got better gas milage with the V8 and made getting from point A to B a lot easier.
I lost the crawl and torque for true off roading.
I thought the original F always had to work hard. Only went with the V8 because I blew the F.

A rebuilt V8 online will be about $3k.

Thoughts and input would be appreciated.
 
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Chevy Stovebolt 250. Same stroke as SBC, so it should rev higher than F. So much better exhaust routing in a 40 than V-8. Battery goes back to original Toyota design on frame. It will have an ignition system that is often borrowed for the F. Although, it is kinda sad that we are drowning in confusion about the original carb and ignition systems on F/2F, it is popular to "upgrade" to GM HEI.
 

brooklyn

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I had a similar choice, the V8 I was running in my 67 FJ40 was at end of life and debated F2 or stay V8. I decided to take a complete engine and driveline from a low mileage 85 FJ60. Happy with the outcome, but do miss the power of the V8 sometimes.

I have run both a 350 and a 283 engines and preferred the 283. So you may want to consider which V8 would works best.

Things to consider— parts are expensive for the F2 and you can’t pick them up at the local parts store — more $ and longer downtime going back to F2. That said being all Toyota has a more vintage vibe and the when driving it feels and sounds just perfect 👍

Can’t go wrong either way - if you haven’t drive one with an F2 before you decide.
 
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Anecdotally, last week I couldn't / didn't get oil from the local parts store, because, the manager apparently just keeps the oil recycling container full and his customers to recycle oil at Jiffy Lube. All they have to do is inform/call the party who empties the reservoir, and it is done. I was hoarding fluids for like a year, and loosing space to store it all! So I went to a new, same-name chain store across town. The manager there gave me the 411, and I tipped the manager for not only the info, but he even helped me unload all the full bottles piled up in the back of my pickup. My new local parts store is now across town, instead of the one that is waking distance.
 
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I couldn't imaging making a profit selling a rebuilt 3K SBC online. How much of the rebuild is Chevy or aftermarket? I know a guy whose aftermarket valve stems in his rebuilt SBC came loose. Also possessing a more capable, modern Toyota 4x4, he lost the energy to keep the 40 on the road.
 
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I've got most of a 2F with clutch bellhousing, in northern NM, available for free. 4-speed driveshafts as well if you help me get this engine off my hands.

Why not rebuild the SBC? How did the V-8 die?

My aesthetic preference isn't V-8 or 2F/F but, rather DIY. I absolutely love the F/2F, but, there is nothing like driving any vehicle that one actually built.
 
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Something to consider is planned use. Back when you switched to a V8 in the mid eighties was probably a DD and seen a lot of highway miles that the way it was for my 68. It's long been retired from that duty. It now back to stock except for the H42 four speed. For my 73 plan a 78 2F I already have. A H42 and Fairey overdrive. Over drive mainly because I already have it. It's a FST and not planning much highway use. 73 didn't have a roll bar and no plans to have one.

Plan long trips in your 73 V8 might be a better choice. If not For off road use I perfer my long stroke six cylinder. With my 68 can crawl up highs at 400 RPM. And do it quietly.
 

cruiserdan

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The most compelling reason to go back to a 6 at this point would be to "return it to original". A 2F is not original in this case. :meh:
 
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FWIW I had an old SBC and went to an ls and it was fairly easy. 1 const hot & 1 ign. on, a mechanical fuel gauge, an es2000 on the frame rail, I have a 70 so I had to T the fuel return into the vent on the under seat tank, ran the vent out back to pickup the rear aux. tank which already had a return line and used a Ford dual tank switch valve as it switches the return also. The vent goes up roll cage, has a roll over check valve and a little filter. Had to put a vented cap/filler on the under seat tank, I found at pick & pull out of a early 90's dakota pick up, bolted right in. I used a stand alone harness/computer from Howell, gave them the details and it came plug & play. The rear tank did not need a vented cap as its return line does not T into its vent line. The later year under seat tanks have a separate vent line & a return line so the vented cap is not nec.
 
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If it's already V8 converted, I'd get an LS and run that upgrade so you can get fuel injection and a modern engine. I'd go with the 4 speed or a 5 speed at the same time if you can fit that into your budget.
 

pb4ugo

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I prefer a V8 and have been running them since the 80's also. As others have said, you need to figure out what you want to do with it. There are a lot more driveline options these days. Initially, I'd see about rebuilding the sbc you have or source another sbc or maybe a ls engine. I'd get rid of the 3 speed. The stk 4 speed is synchronized and more refined, 1st gear is lower. You might consider buying the fj60 driveline and use the trans and tcase and sell the 2f. It should be good setup. Get a bellhousing from AA or Downey and a crossmember if you don't already have one. The trans is the same as a stk 40 but I think the trans top cover moves the shifter back so it lines up close to the stk hole in the 40's trans cover. It should have a split tcase which is much stronger than the earlier 1 piece tcase. You can install lower gears in the split case. If you want to dive in further consider a 5 speed, H55 or nv4500 and use the split tcase. A little deeper and a LS motor for power and some efficiency. My latest 40 is a carb'd 350/NV4500 and love it. I'd also suggest 4 wheel disc brakes and power steering.
 
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Joined
Aug 17, 2013
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Thanks for the input every one! This gives me a lot to think about. I do have everything on hand for the V8. Easy to get a newer one if the old one is missing parts. I like the idea of swapping out the 3speed.

Overall it would be easier to reinstall the Chevy.

However I liked the idea of going full resto - but the 2F wasn't available for the '73! And I'm looking into doing a disk brake conversion since I was always fighting/adjusting the old brake shoes. Hated that!

Thanks again everyone!
 
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What is appealing about not running the 3-speed? Too much grinding getting back into first? Ratios for '73 make more sense than a later 4-speed, with using a v-8, in my opinion.
 
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For $800 I’d be tempted to pickup the fj60 drivetrain and a pullout ls. I hated the 3 speed in my 73 around town, highway was alright I guess. Led me to swapping in the SBC/sm465 in the first place. Later when I got the itch, I found a cheap ls and I can’t imagine going back to the SBC. Progress can be good.
I know you didn’t mention this as an option, but it gets you a 4 speed, splitcase and a smooth running V8. If you can find a whole drivetrain for $800, you can find a reasonably priced ls. Sell the 2F and put it toward the ls. Just my opinion.
 

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