NEED HELP!!! Working on putting OME torsion bars in

[Micah]

I have searched about how to line them up but the thing is is that The adjusting bolts are so tight we can not even get them to turn so that we can drop them. So there something that we are missing?


When yall have done this how hard was it for you?

This in on my dads 100 by they way not my cruiser.

Thanks in advance

Micah

 

[spressomon]

I have searched about how to line them up but the thing is is that The adjusting bolts are so tight we can not even get them to turn so that we can drop them. So there something that we are missing?


When yall have done this how hard was it for you?

This in on my dads 100 by they way not my cruiser.

Thanks in advance

Micah

You've got the rig jacked up with the front tires in the air right? Sounds like you are trying to adjust/remove them with sprung weight...

Also...make sure you match mark so you can easily reindex when you install the new OME bars...otherwise you'll spend a little more time . And PB the exposed adjuster bolt threads before you remove/loosen.

 

[jonah]

i had no prob with the cruiser but mi 91 yota pu was a bitch .
used a impact gun and a load of the blaster should work ..
x2 lift the rig if yor havent/
good luck..

 

[Gary_UZJ100]

We had the front end raised and tires off the ground and soaked the bolts with Toyota high performance penetrating oil and they were still extremely hard. We gave up for now and put all back to normal and let the oil soak longer. A 24" breaker bar with a high-lift jack handle for a cheater and they were still tight.

 

[spressomon]

We had the front end raised and tires off the ground and soaked the bolts with Toyota high performance penetrating oil and they were still extremely hard. We gave up for now and put all back to normal and let the oil soak longer. A 24" breaker bar with a high-lift jack handle for a cheater and they were still tight.

Wow! FYI: If they're that corroded I doubt if, assuming you can get the t-bar adjuster bolts loose, you will be able to get the t-bars themselves out of their sockets. Even though I got my adjuster bolts loosened I could not budge the t-bars to remove. I had to take it to a shop where they did a 5X oxy/acy flame with PB in between...too them 1/2 a day with several pro mechanics working on it to bust them loose due to the rust corrosion...

 

[Stealthmimic]

Just did this to my 100

...and found that there was no index mark anywhere on the OME bars. Marking the originals and the mouting brackets is also irrelevant. I simply measured down from the top of the fender well to the center of the hub and adjusted to add 1.75 ins in height per Slee installation instructions.

Moreover the adjusters need to be at full travel to re-torgue the new bars in place during installation. This may leave the bolt heads hanging down below the frame flanges, so it does reguire trial and error to get it right.

It was a real bear doing this on the driveway, but got 'er done none the less. Used penetrating lubricant to break forward mounting bolts - overnight soaking with periodic re-applicaiton - no problem.

Bar's splines will travel fore and aft a bit and the rear adjuster is sealed at the back, so don't use too much grease! Creates a vacuum. Once installed, I had the front end aligned with new hoops all around. Caster required adjustment - likely due to installation of the diff drop.

I know it doesn't solve your corrosion frozen problem (mine is a CA grocery-getter so no real issues there). Still, very much worth the effort, especially with new OME high travel shock + tires. Keep at it and keep the Faith!

 

[Gary_UZJ100]

It doesn't appear to be a corrosion issue as this is a west Texas cruiser (original owner bought here and lived here). May just be dust and grit accumulation so I am soaking with penetrating oil and will try later. Thanks for the input so far.

 

[wareagle]

I would lift tires, use atleast a 36" cheater bar, hammer strike while applying wrench torque, PB blaster and maybe some heat.

 

[Colicious]

i used a impact gun for mine. only took a few seconds of impactin before they started to unwind. now the hard part was getting the t-bar out of the mount

 

[Travis351]

Mine came out with a small adjustable wrench. Hit them with the PB Blaster several times over several days before starting the project. Even though I didn't see any markings on the OME bars, I would recommend indexing the stock bars before removal. It sure saved me some time on the install. I re-assembled the stock ones outside of the truck, had someone hold the anchor end square on a flat surface and measured up from the surface to a consistant point on the torque end. I then indexed my own OME bars to match those measurements and only had to install them once.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Gary_UZJ100]

Thanks for the input. Project is on hold for a few days as my days have become booked. I am soaking the bolts regularly while I am waiting. Will keep you posted.