Need help with first FJ40 purchase

[JR323]

I am looking at purchasing my first FJ40 and was hoping to get some help on a really rough estimate on cost to make these 3 rust repairs, parts and labor (I see parts from $400 up to $4,000). This is my first post so I hope I get this right. The most urgent is in the rear floor pan/right side wall there is an area rusted completely through which of course could be fatal so is the most important. I am not looking at full restoration but I do want to stay original. Another words I don't want to slap on a piece of metal from a trash can, bondo the heck out of it, rattle a can and call it good. I want to stay as original as I can but have the best repairs that I can. If I need to replace the full rear floor pan and right side wall then that is what I want to do, realizing their is not a money tree in the back yard. Of course there is rust across the rear of the vehicle and the front, passenger's side fender. Again I want to stop the rust but not do a complete restoration. I am keeping the vehicle stock. I would like to like a shop familiar with FJ40s make the repairs. I hopefully will make the purchase on Monday if all looks well with the frame, functions well and can get it for the right price. Can anyone give me an estimate on an unmolested 1978 FJ40 with rear heat, no power steering, no air conditioning and supposed to be mechanically sound? It does have the hard top, all correct attachments such as spare, mirrors, bumpers, etc but appears to need all new rubber seals for the top and rear ambulance doors, which I understand you don't replace unless there is good metal. I have read a ton on the FJ40 (May be in overload right now) which is why I am here posting these questions. Thanks in advance.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Where are you located? Because this will affect value of the 40 as well as give people an idea of what shops that might be in your area to recommend. Also, anymore pics?

 

[JR323]

I live not too far from Dallas, TX. Don't have access to my other pictures right now. The vehicle appears to have been well care for other than rust. Paint still looks good. It does have a cb cab antenna attached to the driver's side which I don't like. Stock rims and hubcaps.

 

[duffontap]

It could be much worse:

http://s132.photobucket.com/user/duffontap/media/floor-2.jpg.html

Those repairs look very manageable to me. My front fenders needed a patch over the support, just like those, and it only took a couple hours. It doesn't look like you'll need to replace the entire floor either.

Good luck.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

I live not too far from Dallas, TX.

Look west. You're too close to dry, rust free areas to buy a truck with rust.

 

[JR323]

I really haven't been able to find one anywhere in the US for under $12,000 that is rust free or nearly rust free, that is unmolested or easily unmolested. I would like to stay between 1976 to 1979 year models. I have spent hours and hours, maybe it is just my search terms but I usually find things when my family or friends can't. I was really hoping for more help from the forum. No one has given me an estimate for the worth of the vehicle as I described (Most important right now) and no one has given me any idea on a really rough estimate to correctly fix the really bad areas shown above. The vehicle is pretty clean otherwise. I head out in the morning and really need some help on this ASAP.

Thanks,

JR

 

[ntsaint]

Trust your gut. If it IS mostly rust free, and the rust repairs look like something you want to take on, buy it. Just make sure you examine it with a critical eye. Often rust in those type places means there is other rust just waiting to be found

Complete 40s are very rare. If those wind up being the only two rust spots, that wouldn't deter me.

Sorry, but I have no guess as to what those repairs might cost.

 

[JR323]

ntsaint, what about a rough estimate on the value of the vehicle itself as described?

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, With what I Can see, not much. To buy floor and estimated rear parts and fender repairs and prime and paint and assorted bolts. 8,500 in repairs. Add that to cost of cruiser. Do you have or want to spend that much. Probably as others have stated you will find more damage when you dig into it, rear light casings etc. These are great trucks, but they are 25 years old and lived lives probably outside the garage . you can save money if you have a garage , lifts, 10,000 plus worth of tools ,friends that will help , good ones , and of course Toyota repair manuals . These are not for the faint of heart or under budgeted as seen by the number of unfinished projects for sale on mud. They are a lot of fun to own and drive. mike

 

[ntsaint]

Based on what's above there is no way I or anyone could give an accurate number. Too many variables. I looked for over a year, had all the same questions. When you find the right truck you will know.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.

 

[jmdaniel]

You posted three pics; that is one of the reasons you aren't getting a lot of feedback. Go to eBay and search the completed listings. That will give you an idea of what 40s are bringing there.

If you post again, with more pictures, why don't you tell everyone the price being asked? That is what you are really asking; whether or not it's worth x price, so tell us what the x is.

Good luck!

 

[Ambrew]

You sound rushed. Worst thing for a buyer is to be in a hurry. Rust is 10x worse than it looks. You will only know the extent of it once it's apart.

It's much better to spend on a clean cruiser (12-20k) than to buy one cheap and spend 10k fixing it, only to be halfway. You get to drive it and repairs are way more manageable.

A good paint job with body work can run easy 3-4k$. A full weather-strip kit form cruiser dan is dam near 2 grand. The steel to fix the tub is the cheap part. As Michael said, 10k worth of tools, a garage, time and some shop manuals go a long way. If you have the time and money, then great, I know I would do it again. But even then, I would wait for a clean truck.


If I were you, I would keep my ear to the ground and put the word out you are looking.

 

[fjfjfj]

I agree with everyone on this thread. JR323, unless the cost of this FJ40 is around $5k to $6k, I would not buy it. Reason? Keep looking for a cruiser with NO CANCER RUST, ALL ORIGINAL PARTS, GOOD HISTORY, RECEIPTS, NO DENTS, ENGINE WITH GOOD COMPRESSION. I also agree that you should look WEST. Also, look on Craigs List under FJ40, Landcruiser and Land Cruiser. Take your time. I agree with Ambrew, you sound rushed. Don't be. IF you make the correct choice then you will always have profit in your pocket from your choice. If you make the wrong choice you will forever be eating a loss. Why do that when you don't have to? Please understand this is just my opinion. But, you gave very little info and are on the road in the morning to check this one out. I would wait unless your getting it very cheap. Again, a rushed choice is usually not a good choice. Good luck. That rust can be fixed with good steel for around $1000 to $1300 / parts and labor and maybe even paint blend ( could be less if you find the right person ). I am assuming the sill is in good shape, looks like it. Also assuming there is NO MORE cancer rust anywhere else on that cruiser. And don't worry about finding an FJ40 guy to do that body work. Just find a real good, reasonably price body guy, maybe someone who is working with low overhead, someone that can give you a good deal. Look at his past work, check references and keep a steady pace. Also, you don't need an FJ40 mechanic ( unless one happens to pop up ). Just look for a good mechanic, someone with old auto experience, usually an older mechanic who has pre- 1975 experience. Ambrew and the others are right, the steel to fix those holes is cheap, that is why you want to weigh out the other challenges very carefully. Stuff to fix up cruisers can cost a bunch of money. Hope this info helps.

 

[JR323]

I have looked and looked for about 2 years without finding a clean, affordable FJ40. It seems that since about 2006, prices have nearly doubled (my opinion but far from an expert). Every FJ40 I have decided could be the one, is sold the day or next day after being posted. Everyone keeps telling me to search. I have spent hours upon hours searching. I have searched eBay, craigslist, FJ sites, regular Google searches and come up empty handed and frustrated. I am not someone who did a quick search and posted on here so someone can do my work because I am lazy. I posted the information that was needed through my description. Everyone knows what a stock FJ40 looks like so why do you need to see a picture of something they already know. I posted the pictures of the 3 damaged areas which are the areas of concern. Honestly I didn't want to list where I was from and too much information because if someone is looking for an FJ40, I don't want to lead them right to the one I found. Again, every single FJ40 I have wanted has sold before I could even get a foot in the door. I am trying to speed this deal up but I have Ben working on it for a week but either he can't meet or I can't get off from work. Honestly I am at the point I am about to walk away from FJ40s and I have wanted one for about 30 years.

 

[fjfjfj]

Well, how much is this person asking for the cruiser?

 

[JR323]

$10,000 but I wouldn't pay that. Again I want one that hasn't been messed with but I have to seal the hole with the proper panel and try to match the paint. It has a big CB antenna that is going to have to come off eventually.

 

[coleman2347]

JR323...you live close to Dallas, there is a huge FJ40 following there..hook up with them and if you need help take one with you to see the truck...somebody that can look at the damage and tell you realistically what its going to take....the pictures you posted will give an idea but rust is always a lot worst than pictures will tell...look at the post here...many have bought trucks from pictures and found out just how bad it was when they got home...that said I would never give advice to buy or not to buy based on three pictures....find someone that lives in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area and take them with you.

 

[JR323]

I didn't post 3 pictures to see if I could get a very rough estimate of repairs as stated in my earlier post
I gave a description of the vehicle and its mechanical condition and said given the damage you can see, which is supposed to be all of the damage, could anyone give me a very rough estimate of its worth. I got everything except what I asked for. Until I restated a second time, this makes the 3rd time I believe. NADA doesn't cover this and it sounded lime there were knowledgeable people on here who bought and sold. I would be happy with educated guesses of value since I have never purchased one.

 

[fjfjfj]

Hello JR323,,,,,,,,,,, My opinion whatever 2 cents is worth these days. lol. Based on the condition you have described, the rust you have shown us, assuming there is no more cancer rust holes, the compression is at least 140 psi across the board, all or most ( 90% ) original parts are included with the cruiser, some receipts or history at least, good brakes and no other major issues at the moment then in my opinion I would say the value is around $6k to $7500. I am up a bit on what I said earlier regarding price BUT,,,,,,,,,that assumes the above stuff is in order. If the guy is pushing for $10k and you really like the cruiser and everything checks out ( above list plus what all these other members have said ) then see if he will meet you halfway between about $7k and $10k. If you pay a little bit higher then $7500 and all is in order based on the above then that is ok. But, I wouldn't pay too much more, ESPECIALLY if you find more cancer rust. If you do, I would walk away or hang tough at around $6500. Cancer Rust is your worst enemy as I am sure you already know. Also, I am assuming that is original paint on that cruiser correct? Very important. If it is NOT original paint and has been painted since factory then the cruiser is worth less. Hope this helps. Sounds like your doing your homework. That's good. Good luck.

 

[jmdaniel]

It seems that since about 2006, prices have nearly doubled (my opinion but far from an expert).

Well, first of all, prices on 40s have shot up quite a bit in the last 5 years or so:

http://touch.latimes.com/#section/-1/article/p2p-75820496/

so your opinion on pricing isn't off, on a macro level. Are there still deals to be had? Of course, but overall prices have been going up. Good for those of us that already have them, not so much for folks wanting to get in.

I posted the information that was needed through my description. Everyone knows what a stock FJ40 looks like so why do you need to see a picture of something they already know. I posted the pictures of the 3 damaged areas which are the areas of concern.

If you're here asking for help with pricing, and people are telling you that you are not providing enough information, you're not providing enough information. It's a simple as that. As far as "everyone knows what a stock FJ40 looks like", I'm pretty sure there are very few stock FJ40s in existence, and those few are in a showroom, museum, or some hoarder's garage. The rest have been used for decades now, have been modified, and due to this reality, have values that are all over the map. If you want the value of the pictures you posted, my answer is negative value, as all they show is rust that will need to be taken care of.

Honestly I didn't want to list where I was from and too much information because if someone is looking for an FJ40, I don't want to lead them right to the one I found. Again, every single FJ40 I have wanted has sold before I could even get a foot in the door. I am trying to speed this deal up but I have Ben working on it for a week but either he can't meet or I can't get off from work. Honestly I am at the point I am about to walk away from FJ40s and I have wanted one for about 30 years.

Ease up on the conspiracy theory. The questions being asked about location are simply to help folks give you a value, which is what you are asking for. Certain areas of the country, as has been pointed out, are better for rust avoidance, IF a 40 has spent most or all of it's life there.

As far as all the 40s you have been interested in selling before you got there, let me give you a little bit of sage advice that I like to call The Lettuce Theory. When you go to the grocery to buy a head of lettuce, you pick out the best one you see, right? Now, was that head the best one an hour before you got there? Maybe, or maybe not. Maybe no one has purchased lettuce in the last two hours, maybe a lot of lettuce has recently been purchased, maybe the stocker has replenished the supply 15 minutes prior to you getting there. My point is, you just don't know. I apply this theory, (some would say rationalization), to a lot of things in my life, and it helps prevent me from fretting about "the one that got away". There isn't a damn thing any of us can do about that one, so apply The Lettuce Theory, and be happy that you got the best deal you could, at the time of the purchase.