Need help with CEL P1300. Died won't restart! (1 Viewer)

[Desertmedic80]

So this morning the 80 started fine and seemed to be ready to go to work. Until I put it in reverse and it promptly died and would not restart. Quick scan showed code 1300. FSM goes into great detail about stuff I don't understand with oscilloscopes that I don't own. Might as well be written in Egyptian Hieroglyphs. Does anyone have an idiot's guide to trouble shooting this code without my throwing considerably expensive parts at it until it runs again? Any help would be greatly appreciated and certainly rewarded by the 80's Gods at sometime in your future.

Harry

 

[Malleus]

I assume you didn't get a spark when you grounded the plug?

Do you have a volt meter (analog or digital)?

 

[Malleus]

You can disregard the waveform check, for now. But you cannot solve an electrical problem without a meter. What the FSM wants you to do is find a short or open circuit. If there isn't one, you check the individual components (connectors and the coil) and if you do not find a bad circuit or bad component, the assumption is the ECU is bad.

Here's the instruction set for checking a circuit; start at page IN-26.

 

[Desertmedic80]

No I do not have a spark but I do have a volt ohm meter. I will read through the attachment and start trouble shooting. Thanks for the response.

 

[Malleus]

As I said, the procedure is:
1. Check for bad connectors; if good then,
2. Check for bad components; if good then,
3. Replace ECU.

This is extremely oversimplifying the procedure, but there it is, in a nutshell. IF you already have an understanding of how to trace faults using a meter, you won't get much insight from the instructions. The ECU troubleshooting section you have is the bible on the ignitor circuit.

Although the FSM says your ECU is bad if everything else is good, it probably isn't. It's usually something else, which the FSM procedure assumes is OK. Like the battery, fusible links, main ECU fuse, etc.

Even if your ECU has a fault, it can be repaired. The problem is usually leaking capacitor(s) on the board. It/they can be replaced.

 

[Desertmedic80]

That was easier than I would have thought. Started with the kick panel and inspected connections. Everything looked good doesn't appear that I am getting any moisture that has corroded anything. Attempt to start.... Nope! Remove and inspect ignition control module. Again, look great. Replace and attempt to start... FML! Coil wire and and two wire connector next to coil wire... Attempt three... Fires right over and runs normal. Wiggle two wire connector on top of coil and the engine stumbles and falls flat like a fat guy running down hill. CEL 1300 with no start. Manipulate the two prongs on the coil and the ones in the plug with a screwdriver so the connector does not have as much play and it is back to the races. Guess I need to replace the connector if I can find one. Seems to be much tighter and giving it the wiggle test does nothing now so I will drive and see what happens. If all else fails I have a 1980 240D (I wanted something slower than a Landcruiser) that will get me back and forth to work until I can do some more checking but seems to be running normal for now. Thanks again for all the help. I am really not that good with electrical so I tend to panic and get worked up before even checking the most minor of things.

 

[Malleus]

If the connector is bad, or terminals inside need to be reaplced, that's any easy fix. The connector housing number is embossed on the rear of the housing. It'll be a 5-digit number. you need to add 90980 to the front of the number. That's the complete Toyota part number.

 

[Desertmedic80]

If the connector is bad, or terminals inside need to be reaplced, that's any easy fix. The connector housing number is embossed on the rear of the housing. It'll be a 5-digit number. you need to add 90980 to the front of the number. That's the complete Toyota part number.

I will have to look for that and see if I can get a new one. Looks to be in good shape but was pretty loose before I "restored" it with a screwdriver and some gentle pressure. Would give me a bit more piece of mind to just replace it though. Thanks again for all the replies. You certainly did help if simply by getting me to focus. I was a paramedic for 30 years so focus was one or two major problems for 20 to 30 minutes. DONE! Next. Not endlessly tracing wires for hours on end that I, in reality know nothing about. So thanks again and I am doing my best to learn.

 

[Malleus]

The first two steps in solving any electrical problem are:
1. Check to see if there's power, and
2. Check to see if it's plugged in.

You'd be surprised at how many electrical problems can be solved without getting past step 2.