Need Help w/swapping out a Weber for a remanufactured factory carb on 1976 FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[Brian/99uzj100]

Hi S-Man, did you figure this out?
I have a Feb. '76 CA spec. FJ40.
The big tube on the drivers side of the carb goes to the EGR valve.
The solenoid on the front of the carb connects to a 4 wire connection on my rig, one goes to the front of the carb(prob. smog as already said), one goes to the EGR, and the other two go to the pressure sensors on my stock tandem master cylinder.

The capped tube marked #5 goes to my VSV (vacuum switching valve-smog)
The large capped tube on the front of the carb is the fuel return line.

You have 2 sensors on the head. The one by the carb is coolant temp. The one closer to the firewall that you have hooked up in the pic is a thermo switch for smog.

I think I skipped this thread initially because I saw WEBER in the title!

Good times!
Brian

 

[SalmonMan]

Hi S-Man, did you figure this out?
I have a Feb. '76 CA spec. FJ40.
The big tube on the drivers side of the carb goes to the EGR valve.
The solenoid on the front of the carb connects to a 4 wire connection on my rig, one goes to the front of the carb(prob. smog as already said), one goes to the EGR, and the other two go to the pressure sensors on my stock tandem master cylinder.

The capped tube marked #5 goes to my VSV (vacuum switching valve-smog)
The large capped tube on the front of the carb is the fuel return line.

You have 2 sensors on the head. The one by the carb is coolant temp. The one closer to the firewall that you have hooked up in the pic is a thermo switch for smog.

I think I skipped this thread initially because I saw WEBER in the title!

Good times!
Brian

Would there be a problem if I didn't hook up the big tube? I have no idea as to where the EGR valve is. Do you have a photo? Ok, will leave #5 capped. As for the coolant temp, kind of what I figured from looking at photo provided earlier.

Yup, I can see why people hate Weber's. Talk about junk! Mind boggling why anyone would go in this direction. Now, if Edlebrock were to make a carb, I'd be all over that one.

Know where I can get a carb insulator base plate?

Thank you for your input. It was greatly appreciated.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

A de-smog expert is going to have to help you with the EGR question.

Carb base to EGR connection, Drivers side view:

Top down view, #7 on top:

You probably don't have an EGR valve if yours is de-smogged.
Regarding the carb base, I think they are discontinued new from Toyota, but I've read on this forum that they are available used.

 

[firefighterjed]

This is what the factory carb riser/heat shield looks like. $135 used from cruiser outfitters

 

[Dizzy]

Or, try Mark's Off Road @65swb45 for the insulator plate?

You will need to plug that EGR inlet. I used an Allen head capscrew with a head about the diameter as the OD on the tube that reaches into the carb, but smaller than the barb on that inlet. Sorry, I forgot what if it was a metric 10, or something like it, and I can't find that post of mine in Mud. I put the screw side into the carb's EGR tube (its head is big enough that it can't get sucked in) it is secured with Armor Mark brand 19/32" PCV hose and a couple of OEM hose clamps. It hasn't dry-rotted yet, but if it does in the near future, I will probably run a Weber.

 

[firefighterjed]

Would there be a problem if I didn't hook up the big tube? I have no idea as to where the EGR valve is. Do you have a photo? Ok, will leave #5 capped. As for the coolant temp, kind of what I figured from looking at photo provided earlier.

Yup, I can see why people hate Weber's. Talk about junk! Mind boggling why anyone would go in this direction. Now, if Edlebrock were to make a carb, I'd be all over that one.

Know where I can get a carb insulator base plate?

Thank you for your input. It was greatly appreciated.

Can’t really get behind your hate for Weber. I think the 38/38 is a pretty good alternative for OEM smog carb that is running poor due to the failure of the smog system. A Weber 36/32 is not a perfect solution because it’s a little under sized. My 36/32 stumbles when I mash the throttle because it can’t keep up. As long as I only accelerate at about 85% it behaves very well. Starts reliably, even when hot. It’s simple to work on, easy to clean and rebuild.

I’m anxious to try out an OEM clone to see if it can eliminate that stumble.

 

[SalmonMan]

A de-smog expert is going to have to help you with the EGR question.

Carb base to EGR connection, Drivers side view:View attachment 2087670
Where does the SAE hose ( bottom right in the photo) run to?
Top down view, #7 on top:

View attachment 2087673

You probably don't have an EGR valve if yours is de-smogged.
Regarding the carb base, I think they are discontinued new from Toyota, but I've read on this forum that they are available used.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

That SAE hose goes to the PCV valve.

 

[brian]

I’m anxious to try out an OEM clone to see if it can eliminate that stumble.

It will

 

[77mustard40]

Here’s my thread on converting back to stock from a Weber. My big issue a previously undiagnosed vacuum leak that I found after converting and not being able to establish a good idle.

Going Aisin-details, details, details

I made the commitment some time ago to ditch the aftermarket carbs and get back to stock, or as near as possible. Down the torpedos with Holley and Weber. My 77 FJ40 has never had its original carb in the years I've owned it so here is what I have pulled together: 1/76 carb - just completed a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[SalmonMan]

That SAE hose goes to the PCV valve.View attachment 2088220

Thank you. PO had it going back into the intake manifold. Slowly but surely getting this rig squared away with all of the help from folks on this forum. What a wealth of information.

Here’s my thread on converting back to stock from a Weber. My big issue a previously undiagnosed vacuum leak that I found after converting and not being able to establish a good idle.

Going Aisin-details, details, details

I made the commitment some time ago to ditch the aftermarket carbs and get back to stock, or as near as possible. Down the torpedos with Holley and Weber. My 77 FJ40 has never had its original carb in the years I've owned it so here is what I have pulled together: 1/76 carb - just completed a...

forum.ih8mud.com

Hi 77Mustard40

Wow! Exactly what I'm going through right now. At least I have the throttle linkage and choke cable. The cable was frozen up, but after working some WD-40 through it, it now works fine. Where did you get your bolts from? I picked up a used air cleaner off eBay in pretty good condition. Still looking for the carb insulator plate. I also noticed an insulator spacer in some places. Is that necessary to have? I'm going to take the carb gas inlet fitting to a local car parts store and see if they have the metric connections and fuel line. I appreciate all of your input!

In addition to the carb, need to replace the tie rod ends, which I do have. Waiting on a tie rod puller right now. Next is the wiring. I have some of it cleaned up, but still can't get the turn signal lights working properly. Driver's side seems to work fine, but the passenger side does not and the PO has a black wire running all the way back to the rear light. The bulbs are all good. Black wires running everywhere. In working with the turn signals, discovered the front fenders are fiberglass. So, that did explain the ground wires.

So far, a little WD-40 has corrected a lot of issues. I love WD-40!

PO painted this rig Dodge Viper Red about 5 years ago.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

Good job S-Man, keep plugging away.
I've owned my 40 for 17 years and this forum and it's members knowledge have been invaluable to me, so I'm stoked when I can help out someone else.

Brian

 

[SalmonMan]

Good job S-Man, keep plugging away.
I've owned my 40 for 17 years and this forum and it's members knowledge have been invaluable to me, so I'm stoked when I can help out someone else.

Brian

Brian,

I'm impressed with this site and the help you and others have provided. It has been greatly appreciated.

Up until yesterday, I had power to my headlights and taillights. Been trying to resolve the parking/signal light issues. This morning, no power to the headlights or taillights. The one turn signal (driver side) is working, sorta. By sorta, I mean all of the lights flash when the turn signal is on and I don't believe the upper light (clear tense) should be doing this. On the passenger side, only the marker light flashes when the turn signal is in that position. All bulbs are good. Headlights are halogen. I checked the fuse box and the fuse is good. Is there a relay switch or another fuse I'm overlooking?

Appears PO did numerous rewiring and circumvented the green plugs on the driver's side located above the front fender. There are two of these plugs. I'm thinking of unwrapping all of the electrician tape and see what is going on. I'm thinking some of those outlets in those green plugs should be going to the turn signals, etc. Maybe not. Then again, maybe they were for the smog equipment. Appears the headlight wiring is correct from looking at wiring schematics.

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[77mustard40]

I’d definitely find the right carb insulator, patience may be the key. I can’t remember if I have an extra but can look when I get home next week (I’m in your part of the world visiting my girls). I had one that had some damage to the vac tube at the base which I fixed with JB Weld but ended up finding a better one before doing my carb restoration.

As far as hardware, common JIS hardware can be sourced pretty easily. There used to be someone on MUD selling a kit which I bought years ago that has lasted me years. Studs for the head to mound the manifolds and studs for the intake manifold itself I think I sourced from the dealer.

IIRC I had to figure out if my carb was internally ported for VSC to the power valve, mine as not so I had to run a vac line to source manifold vacuum to the PV. IIRM, Jim C may have posted in my thread the cutoff date for when this changed. May have been 77, guys like Jim C and Mark might be able to help you work through the vac line setup.

Take your time and be thorough and you will get there. I will never go back, I’ve been pleased with how my truck runs with Mr. T’s original carb.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

You made me wonder what my lights do, so I went and looked. You're right, the clear is just a marker light, no blinking for turn signal. Just the orange ones blink.

Here's the wiring schematic for the turn signals if you don't have it.

The green connectors on the drivers fender are all smog except the master cylinder pressure switches.

By the headlight I have two barrel connectors that go to the turn signal assembly, the headlight connector and my carb cooling fan connector.

 

[Dizzy]

Classic Cruisers might have your insulator plate?

 

[SalmonMan]

You made me wonder what my lights do, so I went and looked. You're right, the clear is just a marker light, no blinking for turn signal. Just the orange ones blink.

Here's the wiring schematic for the turn signals if you don't have it.

View attachment 2089035

The green connectors on the drivers fender are all smog except the master cylinder pressure switches.
View attachment 2089036

By the headlight I have two barrel connectors that go to the turn signal assembly, the headlight connector and my carb cooling fan connector.
View attachment 2089039

Ok, that answered questions about the green plugs. I have the wiring schematic and trying to trace back through. Saw some other threads that mention cleaning fuse holder and light connections, so will do that and hope the lights come back on.

 

[SalmonMan]

I’d definitely find the right carb insulator, patience may be the key. I can’t remember if I have an extra but can look when I get home next week (I’m in your part of the world visiting my girls). I had one that had some damage to the vac tube at the base which I fixed with JB Weld but ended up finding a better one before doing my carb restoration.

As far as hardware, common JIS hardware can be sourced pretty easily. There used to be someone on MUD selling a kit which I bought years ago that has lasted me years. Studs for the head to mound the manifolds and studs for the intake manifold itself I think I sourced from the dealer.

IIRC I had to figure out if my carb was internally ported for VSC to the power valve, mine as not so I had to run a vac line to source manifold vacuum to the PV. IIRM, Jim C may have posted in my thread the cutoff date for when this changed. May have been 77, guys like Jim C and Mark might be able to help you work through the vac line setup.

Take your time and be thorough and you will get there. I will never go back, I’ve been pleased with how my truck runs with Mr. T’s original carb.

When you get back home, could you send me some photos of what you mentioned here? So, how far are you from Lebanon, OR?

 

[SalmonMan]

Classic Cruisers might have your insulator plate?

Hi Dizzy,

I stumbled into them this morning and sent an email.

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[SalmonMan]

Or, try Mark's Off Road @65swb45 for the insulator plate?

You will need to plug that EGR inlet. I used an Allen head capscrew with a head about the diameter as the OD on the tube that reaches into the carb, but smaller than the barb on that inlet. Sorry, I forgot what if it was a metric 10, or something like it, and I can't find that post of mine in Mud. I put the screw side into the carb's EGR tube (its head is big enough that it can't get sucked in) it is secured with Armor Mark brand 19/32" PCV hose and a couple of OEM hose clamps. It hasn't dry-rotted yet, but if it does in the near future, I will probably run a Weber.

View attachment 2087706

That tube coming out of the manifold just below the carb, where do all of your hoses and tubes run? From what I can determine, there is no pcv valve unit on this motor. I'm seriously thinking of just plugging this off.