Need Help w/swapping out a Weber for a remanufactured factory carb on 1976 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[SalmonMan]

Hi Everyone,

Took the FJ out on its maiden voyage this morning. Runs great!

Another question. This has an HEI distributor. What type of spark plugs do you guys recommend and what should the gap setting be? Also, what are good spark plug wires for the HEI?

 

[SalmonMan]

Ok, plug question resolved. Getting NGK (6937) BPR5EY-11 from O'Reilly's Autoparts for $2.49 each. They come with 0.043" gap. Appears I already have Livewires on the rig, so wiring question also resolved.

 

[SalmonMan]

Hi Guys,
Need help again.

Ok, decided to get the vac. gauge out and fine tune the carb. Hooked it up to the primary vac port, used by the distributor. Started the engine, fiddled with the fuel mixture with both adjustment screws until it smoothed out. NO VAC READING. What gives with that? Means distributor not functioning properly if no vacuum.

 

[brian]

That's ported vac.
Will only have vac with an open throttle.
Use the port on the intake under the carb...should be the egr hose....worst case use the port for the brake booster.

 

[SalmonMan]

Hi Brian,

I wondered about that. As it turns out, I'm trying to get a refund on this carb. It leaks like a sieve. Have gas standing on the heat shield. Shows up after the engine has been off for awhile. All hoses are tight and any screws I could locate were tightened.

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[firefighterjed]

Whats the latest on this carb converstion...... or un-conversion.

 

[SalmonMan]

Whats the latest on this carb converstion...... or un-conversion.

I'm WAY, WAY behind on updates. Will correct that this winter. New carb I got from City Racer works great! Glad that I got rid of that Weber. Also eliminated other headaches as to extra lines.

I thought I'd take a shortcut, just sand and prime over the existing paint on the front doors. Then paint. So far, so good. Then when I applied the clearcoat, got alligatoring/crinkles in the paint. So removed everything down to bare metal. Then found more headaches on the driver's door. So, in the process of figuring out what to do with that door. Close to 1/4" and more of Bondo as the door is caved. No apparent creases, just warped inward. Still trying to figure out how to straighten that panel without 10 pounds of Bondo. Otherwise, new tub is installed as well as fenders and hood. Everything hooked back up in the engine compartment. Interior has been reinstalled. New wiring and new fuel lines. New LED headlamps and new tail light lamps and lenses. Front end has new components. New shocks. Will install new sweeps and bearings, etc., in the front axle this winter. Will update with lots of photos this winter. With everything else I have going on around the home, it's taken longer than I was hoping for.

 

[brian]

New carb I got from City Racer works great! Glad that I got rid of that Weber.

more people need to hear this.

 

[EWheeler]

Hi Brian,

I wondered about that. As it turns out, I'm trying to get a refund on this carb. It leaks like a sieve. Have gas standing on the heat shield. Shows up after the engine has been off for awhile. All hoses are tight and any screws I could locate were tightened.

Thanks,

Dennis

Just to be clear, the leaky carb was the Advance Autoparts reman unit, NOT the city racer carb. Did you get the aftermarket carb from City Racer or the OEM expensive one?

 

[SalmonMan]

Just to be clear, the leaky carb was the Advance Autoparts reman unit, NOT the city racer carb. Did you get the aftermarket carb from City Racer or the OEM expensive one?

Correct. I believe it was the aftermarket carb. I believe they were sold out of the OEM carb at the time of purchase. I'll double check and get back to you.

 

[SalmonMan]

Just to be clear, the leaky carb was the Advance Autoparts reman unit, NOT the city racer carb. Did you get the aftermarket carb from City Racer or the OEM expensive one?

It was the aftermarket carb from City Racer. And they offer a 1 year warranty.

 

[firefighterjed]

Alright, since the OP got his problems solved by buying a cityracerLlc.com carb, i don’t think I’m in poor form to re-start the thread with my own ‘76carb conversion story.

My 1976 FJ40 came to me with a Weber 32/36 that runs okay. It’s reliable, starts easy even when hot, but I can’t eliminate a stumble when I mash the gas pedal, plus I want to run an OEM air cleaner assembly, so I’m going back to a stock setup.

Huge thanks to pjohnson who hooked me up with an OEM carb that is correct for this year. 21100-61072 I have what I believe is the correct air cleaner and a heat shield/insulator too (pics to follow).

My questions are these:

1. This carb as a return line. My return line appears to be present at the tank but is capped at the frame rail with a factory looking cap. What benefit does the return line give?

2. Should I delete the return line at the carb or run lines to put it in service?

3. I will re-built this OEM carburetor prior to install. Can someone point me to the critical setting that are understood to be the ideal base line for these units?

4. I’ve ordered new intake-carb studs, gaskets for aircleaner to carb, carb to riser, riser to manifold. My throttle linkage is mechanical rods, and i believe it’s complete. Do you see anything I’m missing?

Current Weber setup

OEM 21100-61072

Aircleaner & riser/heat shield

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[SalmonMan]

Alright, since the OP got his problems solved by buying a cityracerLlc.com carb, i don’t think I’m in poor form to re-start the thread with my own ‘76carb conversion story.

My 1976 FJ40 came to me with a Weber 32/36 that runs okay. It’s reliable, starts easy even when hot, but I can’t eliminate a stumble when I mash the gas pedal, plus I want to run an OEM air cleaner assembly, so I’m going back to a stock setup.

Huge thanks to pjohnson who hooked me up with an OEM carb that is correct for this year. 21100-61072 I have what I believe is the correct air cleaner and a heat shield/insulator too (pics to follow).

My questions are these:

1. This carb as a return line. My return line appears to be present at the tank but is capped at the frame rail with a factory looking cap. What benefit does the return line give?

2. Should I delete the return line at the carb or run lines to put it in service?

3. I will re-built this OEM carburetor prior to install. Can someone point me to the critical setting that are understood to be the ideal base line for these units?

4. I’ve ordered new intake-carb studs, gaskets for aircleaner to carb, carb to riser, riser to manifold. My throttle linkage is mechanical rods, and i believe it’s complete. Do you see anything I’m missing?

Current Weber setup
View attachment 2787220

OEM 21100-61072
View attachment 2787225
View attachment 2787221View attachment 2787222
Aircleaner & riser/heat shield
View attachment 2787225

Thanks in advance everyone!

My Weber ran like crap, despite how much i tried to tune it. Then bought a carb from Advance Auto parts and upon starting, leaked like a sieve. Both carbs had a return line outlet. Then bought the carb from City Racer and now the engine purrs like kitten. As for the return line, the City Racer carb is blocked off so I blocked off the inlet at the gas tank. I have not seen any issues. I had to order a spacer in order for the carb to align with the stock air cleaner which you show in your photo. I had to get the longer intake carb studs as well.

You should be good to go.

 

[pjohnson]

I would run a return line per OEM design.

 

[Pighead]

Many people, it seems, run without a return line without problems.
I still run a return line (late '73 carb, late '74 FJ55)
Cause it came that way and ain't broken. It seems to slightly pressurize the fuel tank, which may aid in fuel delivery. Some have said that a return line keeps the fuel in the fill line moving faster and decreases chances of vapor lock, which i don't think is a big problem in LandCruisers anyway.

 

[Dizzy]

You might need a 'gas filter' where a barb can connect to manifold vac. That vac source will hook up to the barb on the OEM air cleaner's air horn barb on the top of the carb, for the power valve. You will need this for the carb to normal in the A/F mix. You might want to run the choke breaker with manifold vac as well, not necessary, but even a half working choke breaker will make the start-ups easy, even for someone unfamiliar with the vehicle. Most original choke breakers are rotted, so there is a good chance for a slight vac leak there.

You need a smog pump cap on the air cleaner assembly. A proper return spring on the carb throttle. A

More pics of the carb. Most of the baseline settings for the carb are in the jets, which don't get adjusted much. Just do a 1.5 turns out on the idle mix screw from fully seated, and a few turns in on the idle mix screw, so that you have a millimeter or two opening on the primary throttle plate. I think that the Hayne's manual does a good job of getting the details of the other settings, but, this should get you started with the swap.

 

[Dizzy]

What kind of mpg numbers do you get with the Weber? Do you know your vacuum at idle?

 

[firefighterjed]

What kind of mpg numbers do you get with the Weber? Do you know your vacuum at idle?

I don’t know my GPM. It’s been a couple years since I tuned the Weber, but I remember the vacuum being 16 in. I did a thorough tune at that time, adjusted valves, eliminated intake leaks, changed a few jets.

I’m excited to get the OEM unit squared away and see how it performs. I’ll drive it a few days with the Weber first and check the mileage so I can compare to OEM after the switch.

 

[SalmonMan]

Hi Everyone!

First, I'd like to thank everyone on IH*MUD for helping me over the last 3 years. Man, been that long? Also a big thanks to Tammy at Tanco Paints, Tim at Land Cruiser Specialties, Steve at EBI, and many more that I've forgotten the names.

My wife and I are both 74 yrs young. So in rebuilding this FJ, I needed something reliable as where I travel in the mountains, there is no cell phone reception and CB is questionable.

I did purchase and install the Aqualu aluminum tub. Also new DUI, water pump, thermostat housing and thermostat, water and fuel line hoses, alternator, knuckle sweeps, wheel bearings, etc., tie rod and links, Bilstein shocks, carburetor, windshield, etc., etc., etc. won't bore you with everything replaced on this FJ.

Anyway, a situation came up out of our control and now I need to sell my FJ. Not a happy camper.

Here are some photos of the finished FJ. Hope you like.