- Thread starter
- #61
Ok, ran a jumper wire from the driving light (yellow wire) to the headlamp on the driver's side. I now have headlights. Weird.
Need Help w/swapping out a Weber for a remanufactured factory carb on 1976 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SalmonMan
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Mine disappear into a taped up wire harness with wires that go to the alternator and headlight connector.
- Thread starter
- #63
Maybe take a photo at a greater distance so as to get some orientation?
Is this underneath the vehicle??
- Thread starter
- #64
Do you know where the solid green wire goes? That is, does it run to the rear of the vehicle? I know I've been a real pain in the b***, but you have been really very helpful and generous with your time in all of this.
firefighterjed
SILVER Star
I hope you can get to the file at the end of these links. It’s been very helpful to me as I work on my wiring.
Credit coolerman.
And
And
Credit coolerman.
And
And
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Not a pain at all, this helps me learn more about my rig. If you haven't already figured it out, vehicle electronics mystify me. That's why I post more pics than words.
Passenger side between the coil and coolant bottle.
Passenger side between the coil and coolant bottle.
- Thread starter
- #67
Hi Brian,
Ok, I pulled that brownish-black wire completely out and reconnected the tailight wires. Removed about 2 feet of electrician tape. Gee, found another green wire with a yellow stripe. Looked just like yours. It was close to that green wire I located earlier. So, hooked up a couple jumper wires and bingo, everything worked as it should. (Passenger Side. Already fixed the driver's side). Installed everything into the housing and same old problem. Hmm, definitely a ground issue. So, redid the ground wire on the mounting bolt - actually drilled a hole into the metal support plate and screwed the grounding wire to it. No help. Scratched my head and then spotted where a screw should go from the lower light unit to the support plate. Ran a screw through and now everything works as it should. After a couple of hours of scratching my head, rethinking everything, and hunting for wires, etc.
Installed a new PCV valve today as well. Ordered the insulator plate along with mounting bolts, carb bolts and nuts, since I don't have any of that. Also getting a mounting stud for the air cleaner. Can't buy any of this stuff locally at auto stores. Work in the garden tomorrow. Then when tie rod puller gets here tomorrow afternoon, work on the tie rods Friday. Insulator plate should be here early next week.
Yeah, got the lights all working and now the horn decided to quit working. Are you kidding me? I can hear it click, but that's it. That's the least of my issues right now.
Noted I have a fairly good oil leak in the transmission. Soooo, I guess that'll be another project to correct. Can hardly wait to see how hard it is to get a gasket for the pan.
So, many, many thanks to you and all of the other folks on this forum for helping me. If any of you are in my neck of the woods, look me up. I'm buying - lunch, dinner, drinks, BBQ, whatever. If you're here in the spring, bring your salmon fishing gear. I fish out my backdoor. This year sucked as no one was catching anything, including me.
Ok, on to more adventures with this thing. I think I got all my carb questions answered earlier.
Sincerely,
Dennis
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Sounds great Dennis! 
Also don't forget the rubber donut gasket between the OEM air cleaner assembly and the carb
Also don't forget the rubber donut gasket between the OEM air cleaner assembly and the carb
- Thread starter
- #69
Thanks. Was wondering if I only needed this gasket or the adaptor, which many sites had.
Appears I have a rear main seal leak. Oil drips from the bell housing cover and is definitely motor oil. Weird, as when I first got this thing, there were no oil drips. Changed the oil and oil filter and now have a drip. So, will take it to a mechanic and have the seal replaced.
Radio now is working weird. Turn it on, it plays for a couple of seconds, then turns off. Then comes back on and repeats the cycle all over. Be interesting to see where the PO tied this thing into. It worked great until I got the turn signal lights squared away. Same for the horn - worked great until I got the signal lights working and now it only clicks - or relay clicks. Well, if nothing else, by the time I go through the electrical system running down problems, I ought to have a pretty good grasp of the system.
Fun and games.
Appears I have a rear main seal leak. Oil drips from the bell housing cover and is definitely motor oil. Weird, as when I first got this thing, there were no oil drips. Changed the oil and oil filter and now have a drip. So, will take it to a mechanic and have the seal replaced.
Radio now is working weird. Turn it on, it plays for a couple of seconds, then turns off. Then comes back on and repeats the cycle all over. Be interesting to see where the PO tied this thing into. It worked great until I got the turn signal lights squared away. Same for the horn - worked great until I got the signal lights working and now it only clicks - or relay clicks. Well, if nothing else, by the time I go through the electrical system running down problems, I ought to have a pretty good grasp of the system.
Fun and games.
- Thread starter
- #70
They did and ordered it. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #71
Update. Ok, battery got drained while trying to correct lighting situation. Radio and horn work great. Amazing what a fully charged battery can do.Thanks. Was wondering if I only needed this gasket or the adaptor, which many sites had.
Appears I have a rear main seal leak. Oil drips from the bell housing cover and is definitely motor oil. Weird, as when I first got this thing, there were no oil drips. Changed the oil and oil filter and now have a drip. So, will take it to a mechanic and have the seal replaced.
Radio now is working weird. Turn it on, it plays for a couple of seconds, then turns off. Then comes back on and repeats the cycle all over. Be interesting to see where the PO tied this thing into. It worked great until I got the turn signal lights squared away. Same for the horn - worked great until I got the signal lights working and now it only clicks - or relay clicks. Well, if nothing else, by the time I go through the electrical system running down problems, I ought to have a pretty good grasp of the system.
Fun and games.
- Thread starter
- #72
Would you happen to have a number or brand or source as to where you got your donut?Sounds great Dennis!
Also don't forget the rubber donut gasket between the OEM air cleaner assembly and the carb
View attachment 2091862
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Last edited:
Possibly Toyota part number, 17848-61011
- Thread starter
- #75
Hi Brian,Sounds great Dennis!
Also don't forget the rubber donut gasket between the OEM air cleaner assembly and the carb
View attachment 2091862
Ok, ordered the gasket from City Racer as well as some LED headlights.
Have another question. See the attached photo. The item in question has the white sticker with a red stripe. The screw holding it to the carb is tight but the unit is loose. Before I take it apart, thought I'd better ask what this thing does and any surprises to be aware of when I do remove and replace the screw. Like springs jumping out, or.....? I'm assuming this unit should be tight. Also, there is a pear shaped screw to the right (in this case just barely visible towards the top of the unit in question) and what does this do?
I installed the carb and then discovered the unit in question was loose. Dah! Will make changing the screw a little harder, but doable. Not going to remove that carb as getting to the nuts that hold it to the intake heat shield was rather interesting.
Thanks,
Dennis
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
@SalmonMan Hey Dennis, that is the secondary diaphragm housing. The flat arm going from the diaphragm to the carb shaft should be able to move, it's vacuum actuated to open the secondary.
There is a spring inside but it doesn't fly out. There is a small O ring by the two mounting screws to form a good seal for vacuum, watch for this if you disassemble the housing.
I think the screw you are talking about holds the diaphragm housing to the carb and there should be two of them.
Here's some pics from the FSM:
There is a spring inside but it doesn't fly out. There is a small O ring by the two mounting screws to form a good seal for vacuum, watch for this if you disassemble the housing.
I think the screw you are talking about holds the diaphragm housing to the carb and there should be two of them.
Here's some pics from the FSM:
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
@SalmonMan you are gonna love those headlights from @Racer65. I just upgraded to them last year after having dim headlights for 16+ years. Plug and play, and wow what a difference. One of my favorite mods!
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
@SalmonMan Hey Dennis I forgot that there's a small paper gasket right beside the O ring. It's not shown in the FSM pics. Very small and easily dropped/lost, ask me how I know...
- Thread starter
- #80
Hi Brian,
Thanks. The head of the screw was stripped but was able to work it out and replace it. Yes, referring to the screw that holds the secondary diaphragm to the carburetor. That should be tight, correct? Saw the small o-ring. Don't think it fell out.
Ok, another question. The fuel return (black cap by the fuel inlet marked with green paint), what does it hook up to? I have a 5/16" line on the driver side fender that is capped and runs to some kind of filter/container on the passenger side. From there runs under the FJ. I haven't chased that out. Or, can I just remove the fitting and plug it off? If so, what size and pitch should I use for a plug?
Thanks,
Dennis
