Need help putting a 350 in my 40

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Alaskan40, Jun 25, 2005.

  1. Alaskan40

    Alaskan40

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    I have a 350 that I am going to be mating to a toyota 4 speed, I also have the advanced adapters kit to mount this into my FJ40. I was wondering if there is any exact place that I need to weld in the scabs and motor mounts or do I just mount them so everything fits.
     
  2. Mark W

    Mark W

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    There is no exact motor mout location specified for this swap nbecause of a variety of minor differences on all the possible combos of parts that might be used. In general...

    Position the engine/tranny/transfercase so that:

    The drivetrain is level (as close to 90 degrees at the front and rear T/C output flanges as possible).

    The distributor clears the firewall.

    The shifter works as well as possible in the interior (tunnel and heater conflicts).

    The fan is centered on the rad and at an appropriate distance (the rad can be moved to help this).

    The driveshafts are lined up sided to side with the diffs as well as possible.

    The exhaust manifolds and headpipes clear the frame and firewall.

    There is as much clearance as possible between the oil pan and the front diff (without impacting the fierwall/tranny tunnel clearance).

    Probably a few other factors I'm forgetting at the moment.


    Is this Dustin? Give me a call or swing by.


    Mark...
     
  3. Rice

    Rice

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    The largest issue most folks run into with a straight conversion like yours is wanting to keep the transmission in the stock location and bolt in the motor. With a "Marks" adapter you can do this but not with an AA adapter. Motor and tranny need to come up at least 3 inches unless you beat out the firewall to clear the distributor .... not such a great plan. Moving it up TOO much puts the shifter up into the heater vents and now you have a new problem.

    Solution ... mock up the entire drivetrain including putting on the fan (if mechanical) and the radiator) BEFORE welding anything up. It will take more time and will be well worth your energy.

    PM if you have more questions.

    Mark's comments above are right on, but then the guy knows his stuff. I differ from his plan just a bit in that I let my engine / drivetrain dip to the rear by about 4 degrees. Helps with the driveshaft angles.
     
  4. brian

    brian SILVER Star

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    not a fan of the v8's, but i've heard that having the motor too far back will hinder air flow around the back of the engine, which could raise the op temps.
     
  5. fjoakley

    fjoakley

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    Make sure the engine is far enough foreward to allow that air flow over the top and back through tranny tunnel as mentioned above. Also, I would look at throwing the AA engine mounts away and get some Bob Firestien mounts. THey are great require no welding and are far more secure than the AA mounts. I changed mine from AA to firestein and am very happy.

    Here is a thread with info:
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=49433

    The picture posted by 65swb45 is actually of my mounts before I put in the vortec. Very high quality product and much more secure.
     
  6. Alaskan40

    Alaskan40

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    Thanks I shot him a email. That is a mean looking motormount.
     
  7. Texican

    Texican s-Moderator

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    My opnion is that this is a myth, full size GM vans are all enclosed, and my FJ40 the engine is dang near against the firewall, I have no overheating problems just gotta have enough radiator to handle the V8

    Butch
     
  8. Mark W

    Mark W

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    My experience mirrors Butch's. Motor location seems to be a very minor factor. Fan, water pump and radiator are the important considerations.

    Mark...
     
  9. Planet_X

    Planet_X

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    I would make sure she sits level fore & aft. Mine was leveled off the carb mounting flange of intake, however this surface was angled and the motor tilts alittle to the rear. What this means is I have had some difficulty keeping the oil from pooling and leaking at the rear of the valve covers.
    This may be an issue with my non-stock heads, but something to think about .
     
  10. madoc1

    madoc1

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    planet, if you have leaking valve covers it is the gasket. also be sure the oil drain holes in the rear of the heads are clear.the block should angle back a tad as mentioned so the majority of the oil flow goes out the rear holes. have fun


    jim
     
  11. Rice

    Rice

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    Absolutely. Put the right fan in front of the right radiator and there will be no trouble.
     
  12. Hossdog

    Hossdog

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    off set the motor about 1 inch towards the drivers side
     
  13. greencruiser

    greencruiser

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    I had to offset it by about one inch to the passenger side to clear the link for my steering setup
     
  14. jhaha

    jhaha

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    I got motor mounts from downey when I did my conversion, they actually had a measurement from the front crossmember. The instructions say "Weld the mount 19.5 inches back from the rear edge of the front crossmember so that the top of the mount it flush with the top edge of the frame rail." This measurement worked for me, engine placement is perfect. Hope that helps.
     
  15. bigbrowndog

    bigbrowndog

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] Pictured is 308 GM holden V8 & Chev V8 in cruisers. My son has a workmate that has a 351 cleveland in an old trayback cruiser and its lethal. He smokes up all 4 at times looks flaming wild. :cheers:
     
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