I need to do some front end work on my 1999 100 Series LC. I am in the category of knowing enough to be dangerous, but I have a mechanic buddy who will help with the actual wrenching. I know many of these questions have been asked before, but a lot of the post are older, so I want to make sure I am getting the most current info possible.
Long story short as possible, we were driving home on a dark backwoods highway, late on a moonless night, came over a rise in the road to see a tree/ log across the road. Couldn't stop in time, went over said log. Only visible damage was a missing fog light (Anyone know a place to source the passenger one? Can't find one local, no LCs in the wrecking yards.). Drove the remaining 90 or so miles home, alignment felt a little off, but not bad.
As we have driven it, probably a couple hundred miles total, it has pulled to the passenger side, worse and worse. Was already getting new tires. That mechanic, who I had never used before, said I needed upper ball ends and a steering rack to the tune of like $6k. Said the rack was not a rebuild-able type and a new one was like $1200-1400. I knew they were able to be rebuilt and a new one was way cheaper, so I took this guy with a grain of salt. He also said the tires I ordered would not fit when they were the same ones on the vehicle already, so I don't know why I went there at all.
Took it to my normal mechanic, he was going to rebuild the rack. Which is my first question. Labor-wise it is about the same to rebuild or replace. I can get a new rack from Rock Auto for $202-430, should I just replace it? If so, are the Ultra-Power ($202), AAE ($303) or Cardone (w/ inner tie rods, $430) from Rock Auto good ones?
He also wants to do the passenger front wheel bearing. I am struggling to find a diagram to get the OEM part numbers from, can anyone point me to one? I think I need the front inner bearing, front inner wheel seal and front out bearing and race set, Timken part numbers 710456, JLM506849A and SET47. Is this correct? Is there something better I should consider? Do I need a front inner race also?
He also wants to do upper and lower ball joints, which brands should I consider? Rock Auto only has Delphi for the upper.
The last thing he wants to do is the driver front upper control arm bushing. Should I do all the control arm bushings at the same time? Whose should I look at?
Finally, I am going to drain and fill the transfer case and differentials. Looking at Amsoil's site, it lists 80W-90 first and 75W-90 second for the differentials, but 75W-90 first and 80W-90 second. Can I run the same in both? Where I live, we rarely get below 0F or above 100F. The LC is mainly a daily driver, but I do take it off road or tow a trailer sometimes.
Thanks in advance.
Long story short as possible, we were driving home on a dark backwoods highway, late on a moonless night, came over a rise in the road to see a tree/ log across the road. Couldn't stop in time, went over said log. Only visible damage was a missing fog light (Anyone know a place to source the passenger one? Can't find one local, no LCs in the wrecking yards.). Drove the remaining 90 or so miles home, alignment felt a little off, but not bad.
As we have driven it, probably a couple hundred miles total, it has pulled to the passenger side, worse and worse. Was already getting new tires. That mechanic, who I had never used before, said I needed upper ball ends and a steering rack to the tune of like $6k. Said the rack was not a rebuild-able type and a new one was like $1200-1400. I knew they were able to be rebuilt and a new one was way cheaper, so I took this guy with a grain of salt. He also said the tires I ordered would not fit when they were the same ones on the vehicle already, so I don't know why I went there at all.
Took it to my normal mechanic, he was going to rebuild the rack. Which is my first question. Labor-wise it is about the same to rebuild or replace. I can get a new rack from Rock Auto for $202-430, should I just replace it? If so, are the Ultra-Power ($202), AAE ($303) or Cardone (w/ inner tie rods, $430) from Rock Auto good ones?
He also wants to do the passenger front wheel bearing. I am struggling to find a diagram to get the OEM part numbers from, can anyone point me to one? I think I need the front inner bearing, front inner wheel seal and front out bearing and race set, Timken part numbers 710456, JLM506849A and SET47. Is this correct? Is there something better I should consider? Do I need a front inner race also?
He also wants to do upper and lower ball joints, which brands should I consider? Rock Auto only has Delphi for the upper.
The last thing he wants to do is the driver front upper control arm bushing. Should I do all the control arm bushings at the same time? Whose should I look at?
Finally, I am going to drain and fill the transfer case and differentials. Looking at Amsoil's site, it lists 80W-90 first and 75W-90 second for the differentials, but 75W-90 first and 80W-90 second. Can I run the same in both? Where I live, we rarely get below 0F or above 100F. The LC is mainly a daily driver, but I do take it off road or tow a trailer sometimes.
Thanks in advance.
