Need Help Locating Coolant Leak (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Threads
1
Messages
7
Location
Tallahassee, Fl
I have searched for a couple days(on MUD and the cruiser) but I can't seem to find the source of a steady coolant leak that appeared a few days ago. It is dripping more on the driver's side, actually seems so be going down the frame rail. For some background,

1) I recently replaced(couple months ago) the PHH and from what I can tell it doesn't seem to be the source.

2) At the same time I flushed the cooling system and refilled with Toyota red. Month or two later I noticed steam coming from the overflow tank one day and located a leak from the heater valve (I think). I tightened the the hose clamp on this and refilled and everything seemed to be fine.

3)The only other things that I did recently were my front axle rebuild, and wrestle in a new alternator(both a few weeks ago).

So, I have checked the PHH and don't see any significant moisture around it. All of the heater hoses up high around the back of the engine are now dry with no signs of moisture. And I've been shining a flashlight in every nook and cranny to see something suspicious looking but nothing. Also, there is no white smoke and the engine is actually running very smoothly in my opinion.

I'm supposed to be driving the cruiser back down to FL soon so I would like to find this thing. I was going to go by a service station and get a pressure test done on it but I'm never optimistic about those places. So, any of you guys have more ideas? Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

Tyler
 
Clean everything extremely well, especially getting off any old coolant. Go and purchase a cooling system pressure test (Harbor Freight has them cheap). Ramp the pressure up to operating pressure (around 13 PSI IIRC, the FSM has the correct procedure). Carefully inspect all hoses, connectors, and the radiator for leaks.

Some people have found that hairline fractures can occur on the plastic radiator tanks. Under pressure they seep, but are invisible otherwise.
 
Where on the DS? Up by the radiator, by the oil filter, back by the tranny? Radiator's top and bottom tank seams have been known to leak. Find the highest wet spot that you can and that should be close to the source. My top tank did for a while. It was running down the DS support, by the battery and was actually dripping out the bottom of the fan shroud.
 
Sorry, should have clarified that. It is farther back by the tranny like it would be coming from around the heater hoses. But I can't see anything leaking so I have no idea how to proceed or if it will be OK to drive if I continually top-off the rad.

Tyler
 
If you changed the PHH, then you had the hoses up above, on the other end of that pipe going up the back of the block, loose. They're up top right at the valve. Check them too?
 
Sorry, should have clarified that. It is farther back by the tranny like it would be coming from around the heater hoses. But I can't see anything leaking so I have no idea how to proceed or if it will be OK to drive if I continually top-off the rad.

Tyler

Grench has a good idea or it's possible a rear heater line has a pin hole leak where you can't see it, above the bell housing, between floor pan & bell housing and shooting a thin stream of coolant on your frame. Those hard lines are really difficult to replace. 1 alternative is to by pass rear heater system. There's threads on MUD to help you do that.
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies so far.

Grench,

Yeah I had quite the struggle with that PHH so that did cross my mind. I'm separated from my tools, jackstands, etc. now so I will go home and try to get a better look at that area somehow. Thanks again

Tyler
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies so far.

Grench,

Yeah I had quite the struggle with that PHH so that did cross my mind. I'm separated from my tools, jackstands, etc. now so I will go home and try to get a better look at that area somehow. Thanks again

Tyler

What I do: Use a small digital camera. Wrap it in a plastic bag if you're concerned. Stick it in through the wheel well pointed in the general direction of the PHH, take repeated pictures. Think of it as 'remote viewing'.

The top hoses are 'right there'. They're tight together, but they're right there in plain view. A dry paper towel run over the back of the connections will usually tell you if there is coolant coming out there.
 
Well I went out and had a better look and although I still haven't seen the actual leak, I may have circumstantial evidence.

heater_lines.jpg

The steel heater lines look pretty bad. I'm thinking the best thing to do may be to the rear heater bypass and see where I stand after that. Opinions?
heater_lines.jpg
 
I guess I'm missing your point. :confused:

Like the AT&T commercial, "There's an APP for that."

"There's a thread for that." :lol: Great one!
 
The colored dye in antifreeze is fluorescent. Use a black light at night to find it.
 
Tyler,

Nope, your metal line does not seem to be the culprit. The short rubber section above it clearly has dried Toyota Red on it, and I'm pretty sure I can make out faint marks of more dried coolant on the firewall insulation adjacent to it. So that's good news. From the clamps on that rubber hose, I can see it's the original hose. The bottom clamp's non reusable and the top one is also the correct original reusable constant tension clamp.

Now the bad news. Unless you have small hands and a lot of tools, it's gonna suck getting that hose out and replacing it. I'm pretty sure I discovered that this hose diameter is a specific metric hose that you'll want to source before you start taking things apart as it's tough to find. I always replace this hose and the slightly less deviously placed hose next to it when the valve cover's off. I'd call cDan and see if you can purchase this exact hose and the 3-4 others connected to the heater valve (plastic thingy above it with a cable from the dash attached to it) simply because you are away from tools and resources. The way to do it is to remove the heater valve and all the hoses, have new aircraft style clamps to replace every non-reusable clamp, and place something like a piece of wood atop the engine so you can literally lay there and work.

On the flip side, I'd not be afraid to drive the truck with a leak like that if your destination will have tools and resources. Obviously I'd be anal about checking the coolant and have some with me. I guess I'd also consider having the parts in the truck in case the worst happens on the road - you have to buy them anyway so why not travel with them, right?

DougM
 
Doug,

Thanks, I've learned a lot from your posts so your input is very much appreciated. I will certainly get those hoses from CDan and put them in when I get a chance. I do have Toyota red and distilled water in the truck with me so I think I will grab some heater hose and clamps for now for some peace of mind as you suggested.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to reply, I will update when/if I find the culprit.
 
Tyler,
Glad you're making progress! It's guys like Doug that truly make this forum a gem - and owning an 80 awesome. With experience like his and able to spot clues in photos - MUD is the best tool in my toolbox.

.......It's a parody of the Apple iPhone commercial's line: "want to do blah blah blah..., there's an app for that"

Like the AT&T commercial, "There's an APP for that."

"There's a thread for that." :lol: Great one!
Thanks, to both of you! Glad I asked. I had no idea - guess I don't watch enough TV.
 
Tyler i bypassed my rear heat a while back . IMHO its a no brainer mod . This takes you from some thing like 6-8 short hoses down to two. Seeing your in sunny FL it's not COLD . The lines to the rear heat are close to unaccesable . I had a leak hence my reasoning . But if i own a different 80 rear heat is going bye bye too.
 

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