Need help identifying a mystery (to me) drive shaft (1 Viewer)

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Jun 11, 2018
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Location
Wyoming
Hello forum - in short, I purchased a sight-unseen, pik'n'pull drive shaft for the rear of my '93 80.

I received a double cardan and yoke-booted shaft that is about 7 inches shorter than my rear shaft. The yard claimed it was a rear shaft from a '97 80. It is actually the same length as the front shaft in my '93. It also appears that the flanges are at least correct and matching. And it has external U-joint snap rings and proud zerks (as in fully exposed to potential rotational damage due to rocks), where OEM shafts have internal u-joint snap rings and protected (by and large) zerks. The only identifying numbers on the shaft are stamped on the flanges and they only identify the flange (C-22954, or some such). The numbers appeared to point to other numbers and things, such as '1310' and 'Spicer'. The U-Joint grease cups are yellow.

I am not aware (nor are my local 80 techs) of any US spec 80's that came with double cardan OR booted-yoke shafts.

I would love to use the thing as a front shaft (I need front and rear replacements anyway, but I was starting with the rear one first till I ended up with this thing). I have no idea what could come of putting a mystery shaft in a vehicle, even if it bolts straight up. I'm trying to kill some vibrations that cropped up immediately following a transmission rebuild (yeah no, there should be no relation but tell that to the tranny shop :( ). To this point, the only way to deal with the vibrations is to grease the u-joints and yokes of both shafts about every 50 miles. The grease flings out or is squashed out within that time and the rattling/banging vibrations return.

If you would like to see this mystery shaft, just look up a custom double cardan shaft for an 80. It looks like that only with a yoke boot (have yet to find a custom made shaft with a boot), plus a decent patina of rust.

If I decide to bolt it in to see what happens, I have no idea what to look or hear for during testing (road test, no lift available). Anyone have a few suggestions for what I should not be seeing or hearing? Could I hork my entire driveline by trying it? Don't have time for that.

As always, big thanks and happy trails!
 
It sounds like you have bad u-joints in your drive shafts. Order some replacement u-joints from @cruiseroutfit www.cruiseroutfitters.com
Google driveline shop near me
For $100 or less they’ll install the u-joints and balance the shaft and you’ll be good to go. I just did this chasing driveline vibrations. I read every post about it and figured I had every problem ever mentioned. Turns out new u-joints fixed. Your mystery drive shaft sounds like to me the PO had custom shaft made for it before it ended up at the pick n pull.
 
It sounds like you have bad u-joints in your drive shafts. Order some replacement u-joints from @cruiseroutfit www.cruiseroutfitters.com
Google driveline shop near me
For $100 or less they’ll install the u-joints and balance the shaft and you’ll be good to go. I just did this chasing driveline vibrations. I read every post about it and figured I had every problem ever mentioned. Turns out new u-joints fixed. Your mystery drive shaft sounds like to me the PO had custom shaft made for it before it ended up at the pick n pull.


Well that's what's been suggested for a while, but a kicker to that is that my existing shafts...when I grease the yoke, the grease comes out the end of the shaft, near the u-joints. No pressure builds up while greasing the yoke. Not sure (and can't see) the very end of the shaft to see why the grease is coming out there. Had no idea there was even an opening on the very end of the shaft.

And furthermore, this mystery shaft has old grease coming out of the end of it as well, near the u-joints. It could be shot also, for all I know.
 
Sounds like your new shaft is a custom front cv shaft using Spicer joints. Perhaps from a Mud user named Tatton? Maybe send him a pic and measurement.
If you are getting excess grease coming out of the yoke when you grease the splines on the slipjoint, that is not uncommon for shafts to have a relief hole there so you dont create too much pressure against the transfer case. Those retail around $400 new.
 
...when I grease the yoke, the grease comes out the end of the shaft, near the u-joints. ...

If you are referring to the splines, there should be a disk of metal that "seals" the open end, if it's missing the grease will come out the end. Pretty easy to fix, take the u-joint out, and get a flat freeze/core plug of the correct size and hammer it in. They are available in a wide array of sizes, a good machine shop will often have a huge box of them. If the exact size isn't available, tack welding one that is close is acceptable, whatever, plug the hole.

They look like this:
Lincoln-SA-200-SA-250-F162-F163-Freeze-Plug-Set.jpg




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This is the DC shaft. One pic shows the blowout disc leaking and the rust suggests it hasn't been touched in ages.
This may be an actual vintage shaft...but from what? My knowledge of booted yokes consists only of the Ford Bronco - first gen and Bronco II. They both had booted yokes. I'm sure others did too, just never noticed. Pretty sure neither had a dc tho, but I could be wrong.

0729191733a.jpg


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A few more of the rest...

0729191735b.jpg


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And a few more...

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^^^This^^^
 
Last post on this...
...I took the boot off and found the yoke silicone'd (glued) solid. Too bad. It's great looking thing.
Guess I'll try to dump it somewhere and just go OEM - which was my initial plan, but thought I'd try something else first.
Thanks for the advice, tips, and knowledge from all who chimed in.
Happy Trails!
 
Last post on this...
...I took the boot off and found the yoke silicone'd (glued) solid. Too bad. It's great looking thing.
Guess I'll try to dump it somewhere and just go OEM - which was my initial plan, but thought I'd try something else first.
Thanks for the advice, tips, and knowledge from all who chimed in.
Happy Trails!

Damn!

Some people........
 

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