guardcompany
Shea
Every time a nice rust free Land Cruiser is bought by a rust belt owner we need to pour one out. It's sad.
Need help. How to buy rust free LC100 at fair price from the north east. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dmac95
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Status
I would definitely avoid northern sellers at all cost, you’d be overpaying like crazy because they know what they have and they know the shortage of rust free vehicle in the northeast.
As far as deposit, talk to the seller and ask how much they want to hold the vehicle for you for a couple days until you can make travel arrangements to come see the truck. I’d say plan easily $500-$1,000 if not more so they know you’re not playing games, money talks.
Most places I called (private or dealer) when I looked for rust free in the southwest thought I was crazy to request undercarriage pics, nobody knew what rust was and were surprised that I wanted those types of pictures. I mainly looked around NV, AZ, CA, OR, and WA. Los Angeles seemed like it was providing the most amount of vehicles to look at and ultimately that’s where I ended up buying my car.
I agree. Unless you Fluid Film it very thoroughly (not half ass like most people I’ve seen), or winter store it like I do. Otherwise I feel bad for those trucks.
- Thread starter
- #24
The thing is that plane ticket here and back 300. Inspection another 300. Shipping at least 1k.
Is the difference in price for rust free car bigger than 2k ish in north vs south? Also, what price is a good deal, not grear, for a taken care LC? Say 02 white 170k 1st major maintenance done. I'm guessing 11k? A fair deal would be 12-13k. Anything more not worth unless 2nd major maintenance done?
Wouldn’t you want to pay for inspection anyway, regardless if buying local or out of state? And yes the difference in price is beyond worth it imo. There is no “fair” price. Every single vehicle is in different condition and when it’s a seller’s market they can charge what they want.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yeah I'd do inspection anyway.
For what its worth, if she's gonna be a north east truck, i wouldn't spend all the time and money finding a rust-free one just to put it out in our salt in the winter. I found my one owner 05 at a PA dealership, it had lots of service records, not awful, but a little bit of typical undercarriage rust. I traded my rusted to pieces 2000 LC for it, and drove it home. I Fluid film twice a year and powerwash when possible after each winter event and I've had no real rust related issues. I guess I would feel bad finding a rust free unicorn and then make it slop around here in our salty slush in the winter.
What a vehicle is worth is extremely subjective when there aren’t many being sold to get a solid baseline.
I purchased a 2005 LC with 131k in May of 2018 for under $15k. It’s was 100% rust free, all maintenance up to date and in very good condition. Some would say I over paid and others would say I got a bargain. Now that I’m 2 years and 35k miles into it, I’d say I got a very good price as all that I’ve had to do was heater T’s and regular maintenance. It’s been 100% trouble free.
Only time will tell if you got a deal or not. You could search for two years, finally get the deal you want on your dream rig, only to have something major break in the first 10k miles and there goes another $2k.
Living in the northeast, makes it near impossible to find the rare rust free super bargain rig as we can’t just drive over and look at it before everyone else does. So we are stuck paying a premium. There’s no way around it other than getting lucky.
I purchased a 2005 LC with 131k in May of 2018 for under $15k. It’s was 100% rust free, all maintenance up to date and in very good condition. Some would say I over paid and others would say I got a bargain. Now that I’m 2 years and 35k miles into it, I’d say I got a very good price as all that I’ve had to do was heater T’s and regular maintenance. It’s been 100% trouble free.
Only time will tell if you got a deal or not. You could search for two years, finally get the deal you want on your dream rig, only to have something major break in the first 10k miles and there goes another $2k.
Living in the northeast, makes it near impossible to find the rare rust free super bargain rig as we can’t just drive over and look at it before everyone else does. So we are stuck paying a premium. There’s no way around it other than getting lucky.
Are there 100 lemons that aren't rust-related? I don't think there are, really. The whole point of these is that rarely will many significant parts break on a vehicle that isn't obviously abused. You can be safe in assuming a rust-free car that has lots of clear pictures will tell you enough to know it's a lemon or not.
I think a part of why you might be having a hard time is that you want to find a significantly better-than-market-value deal on a very popular enthusiast vehicle and you live in the death-zone for vehicles. That's going to be predictably difficult. The simple and common solution is money.
I want a super-car for econobox money with no maintenance. Unfortunately, that's not really a thing. Just like rust-free and clean 100 series that sit for sale for a week at a low selling price. Ya know?
If you want a rust-free 100 series you're going to need to pony up some additional cash, forego ANY inspection (if you ask a dealer to hold a vehicle without a big deposit and tell them you need a full inspection I expect the dealer to laugh and refuse) AND be ready and willing to buy a plane ticket for tomorrow (and pay the premium associated with that).
When I bought my 99 from a seller 1500 miles away, I got a loan through my 401k which did not require any title work. I simply pulled out the cash and repaid it over the next 2 years. If your employer's retirement plan offers something similar that's one way to simplify the financing option.
This is my thought, too. Why pay the premium for rust-free when you're just going to bring it back to the rust belt and kill it slowly yourself.
^This^
The money saved by NOT having rust is hard to quantify. Rust doesn't just affect the frame and body. Parts will do fail because of rust - exhaust, brake/ABS components, on and on. And EVERY bit of work - maintenance, upgrades, repairs... - takes longer which equals more $$$.
Side note: Telling a dealer you're paying cash does not help you get a deal. These guys often make more money on the back end. Offering to pay cash only conveys that you're a solid buyer - that they can "get you bought" if you do finance. So, offer to finance or pay cash. Don't rule out financing with the dealer. Most dealers can beat the rate you can get at your bank/credit union. If the dealer is too sketchy to finance through... they're too sketchy to buy a Land Cruiser from
- Thread starter
- #31
I'm not buying this to offroad. I just need something solid - built like a 4runner just a tad bit bigger and more headroom space. This landcruiser is only option. I'm not poor, but I'm careful where I spend my money, and if it's to give away extra money for "extra" happiness -it wont happen. Not for a dime more.
Every day that goes by here without finding a cruiser, the more i look for alternatives, but money wont be part of it because there are sellers out there waiting for someone desperate to give up. Tell you what. Obviously I am desperate, but I'd rather break my teeth in pain than give in to someone else. I'm fine with giving up as long as I know "that" overpriced seller doesnt flip it to me.
What I am thinking is to just buy a rust free cruiser online or off auction without checking anything. It's either that or trusting someone locally in Cali to do few minor checks (some version of an inspection, not really, jsut to see if it drives ok and transmission isnt shot).
Final option is to wait for unemployment benefits to run out and wait for people to suffer in the recession right around the corner - where I can not only get a "fair deal". but rather the opposite, deliver all the pain the other direction. It's not what I want to do but it looks like a bunch of stuck up people think their trucks are worth 10k+ for 200k+ miles. It's hilarious.
- Thread starter
- #32
^This^
The money saved by NOT having rust is hard to quantify. Rust doesn't just affect the frame and body. Parts will do fail because of rust - exhaust, brake/ABS components, on and on. And EVERY bit of work - maintenance, upgrades, repairs... - takes longer which equals more $$$.
Side note: Telling a dealer you're paying cash does not help you get a deal. These guys often make more money on the back end. Offering to pay cash only conveys that you're a solid buyer - that they can "get you bought" if you do finance. So, offer to finance or pay cash. Don't rule out financing with the dealer. Most dealers can beat the rate you can get at your bank/credit union. If the dealer is too sketchy to finance through... they're too sketchy to buy a Land Cruiser from
I bought a great boat worth 12.5k for 7k. If it's not a good deal - dont buy it. The only thing needed was alternative approach. I picked it up 5 minutes after listing but it was local.
If I lived in Cali and found that, i'd pay extra 500$ for someone to just go and check it for me while not there - but if that person is a novice and doesnt know - then no point.
Moral of story I follow is - if it's not at least a good deal, then no point in buying it.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
You started the thread with this statement. Does this still hold or are you looking for a "value" deal for yourself?
My spidey sense tells me your hoping to run across an estate sale LC that has sub-100k miles, was never taken offroad or used in winter, and only taken to the shoppes, bingo, and church ... and just pay fair kbb price for a 150k mile vehicle.
GL
You have too many people looking for the same thing that you are and there are to few options to pick from. Being in the northeast puts you at a huge disadvantage.
So we can all get a clear picture of what you want, what do you want and what are you willing to pay? If you're expecting to get something for the price listed on KBB, you'll be better off to stop your search now.
So we can all get a clear picture of what you want, what do you want and what are you willing to pay? If you're expecting to get something for the price listed on KBB, you'll be better off to stop your search now.
I think you might be unaware you're insulting almost every single member on the forum with that last statement. I think we all consider a sub-$10k 100 series with less than 200k to be an unusually good deal. That is the market and most of us have participated in that market to own the rigs we currently do.
6 years ago I bought my 99 for $10k with 190k miles. One way plane ticket.
Earlier this year I bought my 06 LX for an effective ~$13k with 216k miles.
Those prices are generally better than average, but I get the feeling you would feel like you got the sour end of a deal if you had paid that.
These are enthusiast vehicles built to a different tier of standards than anything else.
Your first sentence description literally describes a Sequoia. The Sequoia is built like a 4Runner, but with more space. The Land Cruiser is not built like the 4Runner or Sequoia. It is built to a higher standard and had 2X the price tag when new. It generally lasts about 1.5-2x as long as a 4Runner. The market values are following suit.
I'm not sure what to tell ya. You're looking at a very high-demand vehicle with 10,000 other Americans trying to find one as well. You can't convince the market that it's wrong by telling everyone they should be cheaper, haha.
I think the recession will actually boost values on these rigs. The floor of the market was probably in the last few years. From here on out clean 100's are likely to increase, IMO. Cheap gas and long term reliability mean more people will be looking for a solid SUV for ~$10-15k.
Land Cruisers are probably a bit counter cyclical. Worldwide recession / depression equals low demand for oil, low prices for oil, low prices for gas, higher demand for Land Cruisers. Plus some people view it as kind of an Armageddon vehicle.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Another way to do this is to make an adventure out it. Book a round trip on Southwest into LA for example, rent a car for a week, cover LA, Vegas, Phoenix, San Diego. Drive and inspect yourself. If you find one you buy it and drive it back, cancel your return flight for a full credit. If you don't find one you take the return flight, and call the whole thing a vacation / learning experience. Have your collected funds in a big nationwide bank, e.g. Chase, BofA, Wells. You could do the same for TX - Dallas, San Anton, Houston, or Florida / Atlanta. December / January is usually a pretty good time to be a buyer - if you have that much patience.
I bought mine "by accident". Wasn't specifically looking for one. Checked couple local ones in 2016, all were too rusty for my taste. In 2019 needed another car for hobby and accidentally there was 2 on CL. One was LC and one was LX. LC was rust bucket and seller wanted 10+, another one was LX and I was really surprised it's clean. It was simple - car lived in TX until 2016. I bought it next day. I didn't even worry about checking anything else as I'm pretty confident mechanically.
And I monitor local ads since and don't see anything like that. I already spent 4k on PARTS only. And I expect about 4k more in parts to get it to perfect shape. All labor is free. And there is no "mods", almost all factory stuff.
Will I sell my truck below 10k? Right. I'd rather let it sit on my yard. I feel like with good anti-cor application I will have bullet-proof vehicle for decades. Why sell? My other car depreciates $500-1000 per month..
Moral of story: You will not buy well-sorted truck for <10k. You can buy rust-free truck for 5k, aboslutely. But be prepared to take care of million other things. Inspections on all those rigs is pointless kind of. If it runs - engine is good. It's everything around 2uzfe that needs attention.
And I monitor local ads since and don't see anything like that. I already spent 4k on PARTS only. And I expect about 4k more in parts to get it to perfect shape. All labor is free. And there is no "mods", almost all factory stuff.
Will I sell my truck below 10k? Right. I'd rather let it sit on my yard. I feel like with good anti-cor application I will have bullet-proof vehicle for decades. Why sell? My other car depreciates $500-1000 per month..
Moral of story: You will not buy well-sorted truck for <10k. You can buy rust-free truck for 5k, aboslutely. But be prepared to take care of million other things. Inspections on all those rigs is pointless kind of. If it runs - engine is good. It's everything around 2uzfe that needs attention.
- Thread starter
- #40
Sorry for insulting, I didnt mean to.
There's nothing wrong with being an enthusiast, but to think that everyone who wants a LC is an enthusiast is funny. Im talking about those who sell LC's, especially dealers. They think that I'm going to buy their flooded auctioned LC for 8k over average to be christopher columbus in Colorado - No. I just need something reliable to drive to my fishing ramp and back to home and I read online that Sequoias are not as reliable and that they break quickly.
Since I never owned an LC I can only go by online reviews and do calculuations like below when determining a deal:
Take two LC100's for sale.
1. 160k Miles - Asking 15k, maybe can sell for 14k. 1st major maint done, No rust no check engine nothing, life expectancy 400k if maintaned.
2. 150k Miles - Asking 12k, maybe can sell for 10k. Rusted out damaged/we. Life exptencancy 300k. 1st major maint done, 2nd nope, 3rd nope, 4th non-existent because wont last that long.
Total Cost:
1. 14k price+ 2k shipping/inspection + 1k initial patching + 3*5k major maintenace = ~32k total over 400k-160k = 240k miles. That's 13.3 cents/mile.
2. 10k price + 500 inspection no shipping NE near me + 3k initial patching (something is guaranteed broken) + 2*5k major maint 23.5k for 300k-150k = 150k miles. Thats 15.6 cents a mile.
Big difference? probably not but in one case im getting a better deal and a better car to begin with. Also since this is 1st cruiser, I'd probably not want to spend 20k upfront for a Queen and at same time I cant get rusted out PoS for 8-10k. A middle ground no rust for 13k with 190k (after 2nd major maint) would be ideal.
Ideal deals I'm targeting strictly nuymber -wise:
Steal Deals
=======
1. No rust 15k 98-02LC asking going for 13.5k 160k miles low initial maintenance cost
2. No rust 12 k 98-02LC asking going for 11k 160k miles with some fixing up to do
3. No rust 10k 02 LC- asking going for 10k 150k miles little bit more fixing up to do (this deal was actually a FL car brought to nearby-deal went to another guy a few days before i started looking for a LC)
Good Deals
=======
4. No rust 18k 98-02LC asking going for 16k 180k miles 2nd major maintenance done.
5. No rust 15k asking going for 15k about 160k miles 2nd major maint NOT done but low initial maint cost.
All the above I've found but failed to act quickly on as someone locally scopped it up. I wonder if i should just buy cash online blindly.
- Status
