Need Help - Broken shock mount bolt (1 Viewer)

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Feb 2, 2020
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Livingston, MT
Last week my rear shock sheered off it’s lower mount screw. I have tried for two days to remove with a combination of PB blaster, screw extractor and a blow torch to warm up everything. I’m getting no where with this.

It’s hard to tell in the photos but it almost looks like my bolt housing may be warped and that is trapping the broken screw.

Has anyone been in a similar situation? Seems like my options are..
1. Have a shop drill out the screw and hope I can get a new screw in.
2.Replace the entire base plate the shock mounts to? Not sure if that’s realistic or something I could safely do?
3. ??


 

Seth S

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It’s been a while since I looked at the rear shock mount but that one looks custom already. Might be easiest just to get a new spring plate and swap them out.
 

OSS

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That ubolt plate isn't a Toyota part. Just remove it by unscrewing the four ubolt nuts and replace the whole plate
 
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I do know the “skid” plates on the bottom were welded on by the previous owner but I thought the rest was the original part.
 

3_puppies

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any decent fab shop can take care of that in under an hour,
if replacing the entire plate, my recommendation is to replace the U bolts also, they stretch when torqued and shouldn't be re-used,
Marks off road had ubolt skid plates a few years ago, may not be exact but close
 

g-man

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That U bolt skid plate is superior to stock in that you don't have U bolts hanging down there to get snagged on rocks. Personally I'd just cut that long nut off and weld another on. Google search "coupling nut".
 
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cruisermatt

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Looks like you didn't try very hard to extract that bolt. That looks like a 3/16" drill only going halfway through the bolt? Use a 3/8, drill through the whole thing and use an extractor. Or get a left hand drill bit, that will probably work
 

Seth S

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The good thing about leaf sprung vehicles is that the shocks don't do as much as on coil sprung vehicles....so if one fails or the mount breaks the truck doesn't become completely undriveable. The leaf springs have an inherent level of self damping because of all the internal sliding friction. VS a coil sprung chassis where a shock failure turns into a bounce house
 
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Jan 17, 2005
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When you replace that welded on coupling nut with a new one, use plenty of anti-seize compound on the stud/bolt so this doesn't happen again. I think cutting off the nut and having a new one welded on is your fastest route to success.
 

cruisermatt

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these break all the time on 60's and 80's I have always been able to keep using the U-bolt plate. Almost every lift kit I put on a 80 this happens
 
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I could for sure go deeper with the drill but once I noticed the nut seemed slightly twisted I figured there might not be much of a point.

Welding a new one on is out of my wheel house but seems like a quick hit like y’all are saying for someone that can weld.

I feel like my local hardware is going to have that nut. I’ll call around to see what options I have for someone welding one on. Thank you for these suggestions! Anti-seize getting added to the grocery list.
 
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After a week or so of wheeling, I noticed my suspension making a tick around sharp turns. Turns out I had lost the same hex head screw you have broken off - mine just backed out because I didn't put Locktite when I installed my OME. The screw is a M10x1.25 x 20mm with a 10mm lock washer and a 10mm x 30mm flat washer. Lowes had everything I needed, though not sure about your welded solution for the nut.
 
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Joined
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Welding a new one on is out of my wheel house but seems like a quick hit like y’all are saying for someone that can weld.

And that, my friend, is how 'cruiser owners end up buying a used welder on CL and learning that skill. ;)
 

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