Need aftermarket trailer wiring harness/module - 2001 LX 470 (1 Viewer)

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Pyrenees

Pyrenees

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Jul 25, 2018
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Let me first start by explaining that I have the factory 2001 LX 470 electrical wiring diagram book and spent 8 hours trying my best to make this work, but there is a junction (J40) on the passenger side frame rail that has chafed off the wire to the 4-pin harness (through the BO1 junction that feeds to the 4-pin trailer attachment). The only way I have found this harness to be accessible is to remove the rear air conditioning unit and I will NOT break that JUST to make my trailer's right turn signal function again (all other functions are fine).

I reinforced that junction the best that I could with foam tape/etc to keep it from chafing any further, but it's not as simple as just running a new single wire unfortunately. I followed the EWD and got weird results.

I need recommendations for an aftermarket 4-pin trailer harness with module that I can wire in - ground, stop, R, L. I don't need a pre-made harness that is plug-and-play like every damn thing I find on Amazon or etrailer. I just need something I can crimp/solder to the corresponding places, with the module for protection.

Any recommendations?
 
Pyrenees said:
Let me first start by explaining that I have the factory 2001 LX 470 electrical wiring diagram book and spent 8 hours trying my best to make this work, but there is a junction (J40) on the passenger side frame rail that has chafed off the wire to the 4-pin harness (through the BO1 junction that feeds to the 4-pin trailer attachment). The only way I have found this harness to be accessible is to remove the rear air conditioning unit and I will NOT break that JUST to make my trailer's right turn signal function again (all other functions are fine).

I reinforced that junction the best that I could with foam tape/etc to keep it from chafing any further, but it's not as simple as just running a new single wire unfortunately. I followed the EWD and got weird results.

I need recommendations for an aftermarket 4-pin trailer harness with module that I can wire in - ground, stop, R, L. I don't need a pre-made harness that is plug-and-play like every damn thing I find on Amazon or etrailer. I just need something I can crimp/solder to the corresponding places, with the module for protection.

Any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Amazon product ASIN B003AT2W54
 
Why not tap the junction box output near the box and just run it to the trailer blinker wire after the OEM plug near the rear silencer close to the tailpipe? Keep all of the existing electronics?
 
You and me both brother. While you have put a bit more time into it I am at the same point with not being able to get my taillights to work.
Etrailer...

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@ramangain I tried a couple of things like this but one time my reverse lights started flashing along with the blinker, then the next try when I hit the brake, the right turn signal came on solid. I followed the EWD exactly, so obviously something about that chafed harness really effed something up. Car just passed inspection and the only thing "wrong" with the trailer lights is the right turnsignal. That's why I gave up after 8 hours... I wasn't about to sink another 3 hours into this after getting weird results, when I could wire a whole new harness and never worry about it again in the same time. Believe me, I'd rather use the existing wiring.
 
So 3 of the 4 wires work, which is great. Maybe you just need a small relay+fuse with the right turn signal wire as the trigger? If it hard to get the right wire in t HF e back, you can always tap the front signal. You can probably get +12V (ACC switched) from the outlet on the back left panel and run the wire under the carpet. Fuse the wire after the relay so you don't get damage upstream if/when the trailer light pops.

Or, as you said, add a new box.
 
Agent T said:
On Amazon, I purchased "Tekonsha 118365 T-One Connector Assembly with Converter" It's was plug and play on my 1999 LX470. It may work on your 2001.
Click to expand...
Yup this is the exact same one that I got for my 1998 LC. I think the model number changes for 2000+ because it moves to a two plug connection instead of the 1 plug like we have.
 
Eyedaho said:
I'm using this Curt one on my '99 LC, and it works well so far. Very similar to the Tekonsha one, but ~$10 cheaper at the current sale price. It's also plug and play.
Click to expand...
I was able to get the Tekonsha for cheaper on Amazon, plus didn't have to wait for shipping (prime item). Either one is probably fine. I think cut the 4-pin plug off and hardwired to my Curt 4+7pin receptacle as I had already cut its' original 4-pin connection. Have everything else but the 12v AUX wire connected (will use a bluetooth Curt brake controller instead of a hardwired one) wired up and working.
 
I'm feeling some empathy for you folks who have to deal with these OEM recalls and aftermarket boxes just to get stuff to work correctly. I guess I'm blessed that my 01 was just plug 'n' play right out of the box.

BTW, on that Curt BT controller, I can't get my trailer brakes to lock up, even with a fully unloaded dual axle trailer (brand new brakes at each wheel) and the controller settings maxed out. It is a convenient device, but I do wonder if it's output is lower than the famed Tekonsha P3. Something to research and consider.
 
ramangain said:
I'm feeling some empathy for you folks who have to deal with these OEM recalls and aftermarket boxes just to get stuff to work correctly. I guess I'm blessed that my 01 was just plug 'n' play right out of the box.

BTW, on that Curt BT controller, I can't get my trailer brakes to lock up, even with a fully unloaded dual axle trailer (brand new brakes at each wheel) and the controller settings maxed out. It is a convenient device, but I do wonder if it's output is lower than the famed Tekonsha P3. Something to research and consider.
Click to expand...
Mine rig was actually working fine, but given that I didn't know the history of the OEM converter I just replaced it so it wouldn't fail in the field. It was still plug and play, just an extra plug in addition to the 4-7 pin.
 
^ Such the pragmatic solution, kudos!
 
ramangain said:
BTW, on that Curt BT controller, I can't get my trailer brakes to lock up, even with a fully unloaded dual axle trailer (brand new brakes at each wheel) and the controller settings maxed out. It is a convenient device, but I do wonder if it's output is lower than the famed Tekonsha P3. Something to research and consider.
Click to expand...

I suspect that means the trailer brakes need adjusted at the axle. Think drum brakes.
 
They are self-adjusting
 
ramangain said:
I'm feeling some empathy for you folks who have to deal with these OEM recalls and aftermarket boxes just to get stuff to work correctly. I guess I'm blessed that my 01 was just plug 'n' play right out of the box.

BTW, on that Curt BT controller, I can't get my trailer brakes to lock up, even with a fully unloaded dual axle trailer (brand new brakes at each wheel) and the controller settings maxed out. It is a convenient device, but I do wonder if it's output is lower than the famed Tekonsha P3. Something to research and consider.
Click to expand...
It would be interesting to check the voltage output. I have a wired Curt controller, and it will lock up my unloaded single axle if I set the controller gain too high.

ETA: It might be worth checking your voltage on the aux pin of your 7-pin socket, and make sure the ground is still solid. With two axles you might not be getting enough current through that circuit if there's corrosion somewhere.
 
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