Need Advice!

[Lexonroids]

Hey I would like some advice from you guys, I have a 97 LX450 locked every factory option. I am wanting to turn it into a true functional offroader/everyday driver. I would like t lift it 3 to 4 inches and run 35's under it. I need to know where to start what is best I am looking at the Slee lift and gear and also the Man-a-fre lift. I will ofcourse put the ARB front with either a Slee rear or Hanna rear bumper. sliders and all the rest of the gear. I want to do this thing right. So any real advice would be appreciated. I know I am a newbie !

 

[-Spike-]

ARB approach angle sucks. That might not be an issue for you. What kind of wheeling?

-Spike

 

[Capocaccia]

Well I have a 96 LX450 so Im going to tell you what I have been told about mine. Get a new suspension. The LX series was really under coiled and shocked so if you are doing some hard wheeling a new suspension is a must. Also, with an ARB you are adding extra weight so even if you get an ARB, I would gte a new suspension before that.

 

[Grench]

Do the lift now. Get sliders & the back bumper out of the way. Slee or Hanna both do a very nice job. Hold off on the front bumper until Slee comes out with his new one. It looked awesome on the Vlak Varak <sp?>

How's that coming along anyway? Has anyone heard?

*I'm feeling obsolete with my early generation Slee back bumper and my ARB front bumper*

 

[Lexonroids]

I figured with as much offroad armor as I am planning the new suspension was a given. I am looking at a couple of different options as that goes also. Not to say that money is not an issue but I really don't want to halfass any thing on this rig. I want it HULK on the outside and Bruce Wayne on the inside.

 

[OGBeno]

I figured with as much offroad armor as I am planning the new suspension was a given. I am looking at a couple of different options as that goes also. Not to say that money is not an issue but I really don't want to halfass any thing on this rig. I want it HULK on the outside and Bruce Wayne on the inside.

If that is the case, you need to go with the Slee 4" or 6" kit.

you need to get all of the adjustable suspension links, new front control arms (or create your own front suspension linkages--ie: 3 link a la actionjackson), at least a front double cardan drive shaft (maybe a rear, depending on your suspension lift and driveline vibrations), upgrade your differential gearing to match the 35's, extended brake lines, yada, yada, yada.

Do a search. You will get an entire day's worth of reading for your research efforts.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[IdahoDoug]

The question "what kind of wheeling" was asked and it's a good one. Then fullbore lift, armor, drivetrain mods were suggested with no answer to this question. If the rig is destined to be used in Moab once a year, some beach fishing and a hunting trip or two, these recommendations seem kinda off for a locked rig that can do all that right out of the box.

Also, you've been told wrong on a couple things. The LX has the same springs with different shocks. Adding an ARB front doesn't require even headlight alignment as it adds only 60lbs - about what a 2nd battery weighs.

So, what kind of wheeling?

DougM

 

[Tools R Us]

... The LX has the same springs with different shocks....
DougM

Do you know this for sure? I know that the stripe code is different, this normally signifies different coils. When installed on 4runners LX coils result in less lift and better ride than the same year LC coils. The research done over at yodatech indicated that early LC's have the stiffest springs, the later ones are softer and the LX springs are the softest.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Whups, did I reverse them? Either the shocks or the springs are the same according to Cdan. IIRC, he did some cross reference. Hope I'm quoting him correctly!

Stripe codes can mean different things besides that they are a different part. IIRC the springs are spec'd as the same p/n and it was the shocks that are valved differently for Lexus models. Agree the earlier (93/94) models *seem* to have the stiffest springs as originally equipped. I happened to be in a meeting where the 93 springs and shocks were to be lifted intact from the German spec 80s. From experience, the 95's and up *seem* to be softer sprung and a change in springs would be normal when other things are changed (95 added different tranny, air bags, etc).

Anyhow, seems like the best place to start to really help someone on mods is to see what they're going to DO with the truck as Spike asks. With so many people here having excellent direct experience that seems to be the highest value added the Forum can provide to a question like this.

DougM

 

[Tools R Us]

Dan said that all of the trucks use the same replacement springs. What was originally installed were not the same, they differ in wire size, wrap count, free length and stripe code. The original LX shocks are also much softer.

I agree that stock springs should not be spacer lifted, they are too soft. The only time that I would recommend spacers on stock springs would be to level the truck to stock height.

 

[tarbe]

Adding an ARB front doesn't require even headlight alignment as it adds only 60lbs - about what a 2nd battery weighs.

DougM

This was my experience. I think the effect of adding just an ARB is way over estimated.

Now, if that ARB has a winch stuffed in it and and you have an extra battery under the hood...now the three items taken together are appreciable.

 

[Lexonroids]

The question "what kind of wheeling" was asked and it's a good one. Then fullbore lift, armor, drivetrain mods were suggested with no answer to this question. If the rig is destined to be used in Moab once a year, some beach fishing and a hunting trip or two, these recommendations seem kinda off for a locked rig that can do all that right out of the box.

Also, you've been told wrong on a couple things. The LX has the same springs with different shocks. Adding an ARB front doesn't require even headlight alignment as it adds only 60lbs - about what a 2nd battery weighs.

So, what kind of wheeling?

DougM

I am in land sales and am on pretty rough sales/logging trails in the mountains at least 2 or 3 times a week. I am also maybe 45 min to an hour from Tellico I want to know when I go to Moab I will be able to make it. It still has to be nice for my clients on the inside though.

 

[Beowulf]

I want it HULK on the outside and Bruce Wayne on the inside.

x3 on the question about what kind of wheeling, how often, what part of the country, how many miles/month as a DD, and what role as a DD? Makes a difference if you are a real estate salesdrone and have clients crawling in and out all day vs a 3 mile drive to an open parking lot vs a 30 mile haul to a downtown parking garage.

If you're unsure and looking for ideas then you should start with the ROTW threads and pick a truck rigged like you are thinking. For an expedition rig you would be well served to get ideas from desertdude's excellent truck. Impressive.

-B-

 

[NorCalDoug]

regarding OEM Lexus springs...

as I recall, there are/were 2 types of rear springs for the 80 series -- one for those with rear seats and another for those without. the last time this came up, I recall it being that the LX 450 got the springs that Toyota would've normally put on the Land Cruiser without rear seats.

am also 99% sure the shock dampening rates are different between the LC and LX.

 

[NorCalDoug]

the type of wheeling you want to do does matter quite a bit. however, I think a good all-round set up would be the following:
- Slee's 4" lift kit
- Slee's or ARB's front bumper
- Slee's, Hanna's or 4X4 Labs' rear bumper
- Slee's or Hanna's sliders


whether it be Hanna, 4x4 Labs or Slee, you can't go wrong.

with 35s and OEM gearing, you will either learn to accept that your rig will no longer beat a 4-year-old on a tricycle off the line or you want to regear or invest in a supercharger.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Good info on the LX/LC spring differences - wasn't clear on that.

Regarding how to set up the truck, the extent of the mods is dictated by the most severe conditions you expect/plan to expose the truck to. For rough/muddy logging roads with associated rough offtrail movement as well, I think a low lift, an ARB and a slightly larger mud tire would provide an already highly mobile vehicle on those conditions with exponentially larger capability. What it would NOT do is turn your client vehicle into something you perhaps don't want as a daily driver or alter the handling while bringing clients TO the property so much that it seems like an over the top vehicle. In other words, if you show up in a radically lifted truck with huge tires is it making a statement to your client you may not want. And would the freeway travel to the property feel jiggly and unstable - violating one of the most important tenets of sales, which is make and keep the prospect comfortable about you and the choices you make.

Obviously I'm reaching here, but I do sales training and feel that at some point a heavily modified truck being used to shuttle clients eventually impacts your professional image. I'd think it's cool. Most of the people here on Mud would think it's cool. And you'd think it's cool. But what about your clients?

So, I'd go for a little better ground clearance, an ARB for critter protection, and serious rubber that may also include a separate set of studded, siped winter muddies as well. If you can't get around with lockers and this, perhaps you shouldn't have a client there.

DougM

 

[KliersLC]

What DougM said.

There are very few things an OME lifted 80 can't do.

305s will keep close to stock performance, heavy OME lift or Frankies(dunno for sure on that one, ARB, winch, sliders, Rear bumper, and Castor correction will get you an extremely capable vehicle that looks cool, rides like stock, and will do Moab with no problems. also you won't have to fiddle with the adjustable control arms, driveline vibes, DC shafts, regearing, supercharging and all that other fun stuff.

Now, My 80 is not set up like that, but we have a start, and I'd say you should be able to get the following for less than 4k if you do the work yourself(although I could be dreaming...)
OME Heavies plus shocks
CC Bushings
ARB(on sale)
Rear Bumper
sliders
8k winch

 

[Kalawang]

I'd agree with a mild lift as a good to go DD. My 4" lift works well for treating because of the prospect of a ride in an uncommon vehicle, but I always have to give some thought when a client's wife is wearing short skirts. When that happens I try to position myself to block the view for her benefit, or ask the husband to stand beside or behind her as she makes the climb. Once in they find it a great tour vehicle because the added height lets them look over fences and does give a better view all around with less looking up than in a normal car. It's less tiring.

The quality and success of the lift would be the key. A surprisingly large number of people expect a bad ride when they climb into my lifted LC and are amazed that it isn't much different from the norm. I like my 4" lift for inspecting rural properties, but I'm feeling that a 2" lift would probably be better for treating in the city. For mild off roading, which for me means getting to and from farm properties where roads are a memory, I'm thinking that a 2" lift with 33" tires is good enough.


Kalawang

 

[Lexonroids]

Thanks Guys keep it coming.

Idaho I really appreciiate everything you said you nailed every one of my concerns, I just want the best of both worlds and felt the Lexus could do that better than any other vehicle, I was doing this with a Discovery and it was just not comfortable enough I continue to appreciate all the advice I can get.