Need advice with PHH (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Irish Reiver
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Since we are talking about this, has anyone tried filling the system through the hose adjacent to the heater control valve to eliminate air in the system? It is the highest spot, after all.
I have a permanent filler "T" on the heater return line in my Mustang that's threaded to accept a garden hose, and that works a treat for flushing and filling.
I have a permanent filler "T" on the heater return line in my Mustang that's threaded to accept a garden hose, and that works a treat for flushing and filling.
I have the permanent T installed in the cruiser, but I just used the big yellow funnel thing on the radiator. Super handy for burping the cooling system and comes with different attachments to fit different cars. A must have for any Gear head.
"Big Yellow Funnel Thing". Not sure what that is, exactly.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_m1jqwb3DQ6WV6
That thing. You fill the funnel up and let the engine run. The funnel is the highest point in the system. There is a stopper for the funnel so you can just pull it out when you stop seeing bubbles and dump it back in the jug. Good to have around.
Hornd
SILVER Star
I still think it's a bad design:
They could have added flex in a better location and used a bolted on nipple then put the flex in a more accessible location.
The Plastic Nipple off the Radiator.....Stoooopid, Head Gasket....Ig-knit, The Sound System....Pathetic, Useless 3rd Row, Roof Rack that Rusts thru.....Fender Flares not integrated into fender...A joke, Don't even mention cup holders, Powered Seat system isn't too impressive. Fine threads on a Tie Rod when they should be coarse threads with a Jam nut....Come on, Shaky Mirrors....I'm done, oh Hideous Gold Badges
Distributor off Motor-Brilliant, Power Steering off Motor- Brilliant, Transmission that lasts forever, Air Filter System, AC that lasts 20 yrs+, Dual Belts, Glass Headlight enclosures that never degrade, A bottom Motor end that can handle 2X the Horsepower.
I've found the third row to be amazingly useful, myself. I love the way it "disappears" to convert it into a stuff hauler.
Hornd
SILVER Star
I too have found it very handy when I need to haul midgets and minions.
Fat chicks only in the backseat between both Axles. If she can't shear off a running board, shes not big enough.
I too have found it very handy when I need to haul midgets and minions.
Fat chicks only in the backseat between both Axles. If she can't shear off a running board, shes not big enough.
Normal humans fit in the third row just fine. Don't know much about the "fat chicks" you speak of.
Chris FJ80
SILVER Star
If you want to get the lower bolt out, you can try the gear wrench method I used:
PHH OEM style close up pics
Hornd
SILVER Star
Looks like you have tints for a reason. Favor the cover of darkness?
It's cool, they are just like Mopeds.
It's our secret; not like anybody reads these forums anyhow.
Back on Topic!
To answer your question on the Breeze torque clamps ... torque is 35-40 INCH POUNDS as reported elsewhere on IH8Mud by another poster who spoke with an engineer at the manufacturer ... That is what I used on mine and they do not leak (I did the PHH and one of the upper heater hoses with silicon hose and Breeze torque clamps fwiw) It will be tough I think to set the proper torque on the PHH while working in the "bay" ... in case you are interested my inch pound torque "wrench" was an Anschutz action wrench calibrated in newton meters and I used 4.5 newton meters.
I think this is wise .. ChrisFJ80's approach is (IMO) much better than hoping that metal fatigue induced by rocking the heater inlet pipe back and forth will cause a clean break on the lower mounting tab and not weaken/crack the actual pipe. Also I see he left the bolt off afterwards... I am not sure how it could be put back in anyway - I certainly couldnt do it and left the lower bolt off as well. However I am sure that is inconsequential as the upper bolt holds the pipe securely anyway and the hose provides additional security at the bottom (in fact if you use a Gates Green stripe which is so stiff and thick - it is probably stronger than the small steel lower mounting tab!!) ... I think ChrisFJ80's use of a flare nut wrench is very smart also as an open end will round the nut as will a lot of 12pt ratcheting wrenches. BTW this should be called the PLHPB (pesky lower Heater Pipe bolt!) which is the real culprit that causes this whole damn problem!!!!
Chris FJ80
SILVER Star
After I did my repair, someone posted up that he installed a stud in that lower bolt hole. I don't know how difficult it is to do this, but something to consider. For someone with normal sized hands, I would think it is much easier to get a nut onto a stud in the lower bolt hole, than trying to insert a PLHPB!
would be easier, but installing a stud in that location would almost certainly have to be done with the engine pulled out. That would be a "while I'm here" project.
How much you value your time is also a factor. I spent over an hour trying to get that bolt out without success but the tab broke off in 5 minutes. Maybe I was just untalented or unlucky, but I did make a living turning wrenches for 3 years. You would get fired if you spent too much time on something like this. Once the tube is out, you can get a wrench on the bolt, no problem. If you are worried about the tube you can get a brand spanking new one from the dealer for cheap.
Actually this "...but I did make a living turning wrenches for 3 years. You would get fired if you spent too much time on something like this"
is EXACTLY why I end up doing all the work myself on my LX450 ... I dont know ANY dealership that has any significant experience on this vehicle and I certainly dont know ANY shop that will take the time required to do the work "by the book" and I mean FSM. And some of their shortcuts simply shorten the life of your vehicle.. JEEZ ... I couldnt even get a simply thing like an exhaust system installed properly without the boneheads breaking studs and stripping threads with their damn airguns ... after that debacle I also discovered one of the O2 sensor wires broken and bare twisted (un-insulated) wires hanging down afterwards ...and I dont get a discount for the time they save with their shortcuts. In fact dealing with all that mess is one of the reasons my HG took so long to finish ...
BUT you may have the final answer if the pipe is cheap -- just break it and replace it....
I ended up loosening the bottom bolt from the top with a gear wrench just enough to move the pipe to get the new silicone hose on. I don't know how these guys can do it in a couple hours took me over a day to change t-stat, PHH and flush the system. Glad it's over.
Thanks for the help, Antor
