Are you saying to eliminate the hard line altogether?
Do I rock/twist from the topside of the motor?
Need advice with PHH (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Irish Reiver
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Are you saying to eliminate the hard line altogether?
Do I rock/twist from the topside of the motor?
I eliminated the hard line all together and did the work around. I snipped the old clamps and used a straight razor to cut the hose and then tear it off. Reaching the bolt on the bracket between the block and the firewall was a royal pain, for some reason it was torqued down to a ridiculous amount. 12mm bolt torqued down that tight is totally overkill for what it needed to do. when I finally got the hard line off, I spiked it into the ground and did a victory dance. Glad I won't need to mess with it again.
What I don't get about the bypass, is that the hardest part is (allegedly) removing the hard line. Which you have to remove ANYWAY to do the bypass or to replace the PHH.
So installing shouldn't be that much more work then installing the bypass, and once you put the high tech PHH in there, you'll never have to do it again. And the hard line keeps that hose permanently out of the way. I suggest the bypass, on the other hand, will get in the way each and every time you need to go into that side of the engine bay.
So, am not getting the "advantages" of doing the bypass to begin with.
My understanding is that when you reinstall the hard line, you just fasten the top side. You can eliminate the hard line, if you want, but the hard line takes up less engine bay space.
You are a Godsend, sir.
I usually spend hours doing things the hard way, but will do it the way you've recommended when all the parts show up.
That is certainly your prerogative. However, it's up to you to decide whether to take the time and effort to unfasten the bottom bracket.
Lots of people have broken the tab off and just run it that way with no negative results.
Once the metal tube is out, you have much easier access to the bolt that holds the lower bracket in place and you can remove it if you want. The question is whether you need this bracket and I don't think that is the case. The hose is only a few inches away and it is mechanically strong.
It is hardly in the way of anything. And installing the bypass was easier than installing the short stubby hose, even if just slightly. And I get to tell everyone "I don't have a PHH on my cruiser anymore
"
It is hardly in the way of anything. And installing the bypass was easier than installing the short stubby hose, even if just slightly. And I get to tell everyone "I don't have a PHH on my cruiser anymore
How is installing the bypass easier?
If you remove the hard line, install one end on the hard line FIRST, then fish it to the PHH receptacle to the block, it actually should be slightly easier to install the hard line/phh combo, as you don't have the length of hose flopping around, in the way.
Unless I am missing something, here.
Besides being ugly, the bypass hose eliminates the upper bracket tube mount and this puts extra vibration and stress on the plastic heater valve which may lead to its early demise and failure. It is just as easy to re-use the metal tube, it looks better, but more importantly it will let promote the survival of the heater valve.
Yea I need to do this soon and have ordered the PHH kit a month ago and at the time couldn't figure out how the bypass kit made the job easier at all. Still cant' but i haven't done it yet so we will see.
No. Reuse it.
Yes. Turn the tube 90 degrees CCW and rock back and forth from the top. It will take a while to break, so enjoy a beer while you are doing this. After it breaks off lift it out and deal with the old hose and new hose on the bench.
I dropped the hose down from up top, and then slid it on the hard line on the block. No messing with the hard line. That makes the bypass slightly easier. Thats how I see it anyway. To each his own.
I don't really mind the hose. It doesn't look out of place the way I routed it. As for the extra vibration on the heater valve, I think your stretching to say that it is so much more stress that it would cause premature failure of the heater valve. The valve is rubber mounted on the firewall, and the only difference is the weight of the hose, which is minimal because the heater valve is not holding the entire weight, if any. I attached my hose to the firewall.
As for the vibration/stress, I would venture to say it has less vibration/stress from a long length of hose, as opposed to a short hose attached to a rigid line, that is attached to the engine, which moves independently of the firewall. Do what you want, either way is fine, but I'm not buying that the bypass is inferior in function as what was stock, based on your logic.
Negative, pretty sure coolant would just puke out of the block.
