Need advice with PHH (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Irish Reiver

GOLD Star
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Threads
95
Messages
2,382
Location
Orlando, Florida
Guys, my replacement PHH arrived this afternoon. Thought I would have a go at removing the old one tonight and installing the replacement tomorrow. I'm guessing this is the original but I can't for the life of me see how I can remove this. I have watched countless videos on this and read pleantly of threads but nothing prepared me for what I am looking at. I know you all have most likely tackled this before so any advice is greatly appreciated.
20151030_194114.jpg
 
I managed to get a dremel tool in that space and cut the clamp when I did mine. That made short work of the process.
 
I used dremel tool with grinding wheel, just touching clamp to weaken it then twisted it off with pliers.
 
Clip those hose claps off with a pair of snips or dykes and cut that sum'b outta there.
 
Recently did this. Long needle nose pliers to unroll the cotter pin clockwise. Should be easy to lossen the tension and just work it out. The rear clamp looks like it's going to be jammed against the plenum. So may be just easier to use a dremel with cutting wheel. Just take your time and don't cut into the metal tube. My 2 cents.
 
Remove the metal tube first. It will make the job easier.
1. Remove the top hose on the tube and the bolt for the top bracket.
2. Cut the hose in the middle and let the coolant drain.
3. While the coolant is draining, rock the tube back and forth until the lower bracket breaks off. Lift tube out.
4. After the tube is out, install new hose on the tube.
5. Remove the other half of the original hose on the head side.
6. Install tube/hose assembly and tighten lower clamp.
7. Reinstall top hose and bolt.
8. Refill
Done
 
Be careful if you use a Dremel. It could quickly and easily cut something you don't want cut. I think you're better off with needle nose pliers, a box cutter on the hose, etc. I recommend not using power tools to get the old clamps and hose off. Take your time.
 
Thanks guys. Success. The outboard clamp fell apart when I tried to pry it off with a screw driver. The engine block clamp was a pig but with a little bit of finessing with my dremmel I was able to weaken the clamp enough to break it with a screw driver. I cut the hose of but the inside was rotten. Tomorrow I will try and put the new one on. Surely this has got to be easier....
 
Slips on like a glove with a little ky and if the top tube is loosened as Pinhead mentioned above.
 
Pin head has it right plus if you are left handed a huge bonus there.some angle needle nose and a 8mm ratchet wrench.take the tire off better access
 
Remove the metal tube first. It will make the job easier.
1. Remove the top hose on the tube and the bolt for the top bracket.
2. Cut the hose in the middle and let the coolant drain.
3. While the coolant is draining, rock the tube back and forth until the lower bracket breaks off. Lift tube out.
4. After the tube is out, install new hose on the tube.
5. Remove the other half of the original hose on the head side.
6. Install tube/hose assembly and tighten lower clamp.
7. Reinstall top hose and bolt.
8. Refill
Done

I gave up trying to get the bolt out of the bottom bracket and decided to opt for just breaking the actual bracket. problem I am facing is that it looks like it is the pipe which is moving and most likely to fracture. is there any trick or tools that you used?
 
Job done at last. Pipe eventually came off with breaking. New pipe on and screwed up. She's been ticking over on the drive now for 20 mins with no leaks. Happy days :)
Thanks again for all you inputs.
 
It isn't that pesky once you get the tube out of the way. There is a lot more room to get the half or the hose remaining with needle nose pliers. Power tools are fun, but they aren't necessary for this job. Being left handed or ambidextrous is a big plus for this job.
 
I tried to free up the pipe by rocking it back and forth until the lower bracket broke but couldn't get it to break. I ended up bypassing it and plan to deal with it when a change my coolant, any tips on getting the lower bracket to break?
 
I tried to free up the pipe by rocking it back and forth until the lower bracket broke but couldn't get it to break. I ended up bypassing it and plan to deal with it when a change my coolant, any tips on getting the lower bracket to break?
Remove the top bolt and just twist it back and forth until it breaks. It takes a while.
 
It might take 5 minutes of rocking / twisting, but it will break the lower tab off eventually. This beats spending 20 minutes underneath fighting the hose clamps and another 20 minutes trying to get the lower bolt out.
 
One poster said that he would be afraid to us a Dremel. You could then always use a flex shaft on your Dremel. With the flex shaft install on the Dremel it's alot easier to use while cutting off those clamps.
 
I snipped my clamps off with wire cutters then sliced the hose with a razor blade. I didn't want to run the risk of causing damage with the dremel


Sent from my iPad
 
Playing with power tools is fun, but if you want to get this job done with the minimum time and aggravation, you need to minimize the time you spend underneath reaching with your left hand to just cutting the hose in two at first.

Later it will include removing the head side clamp with needle nose pliers, removing the head side hose half and tightening the clamp on the new hose. Removing the tube first by breaking the lower bracket is the key to getting it done quickly and easily. Once the tube is out of the way you can get the other clamp and hose off easily.
 
After fighting this one myself, I would use a set of wire cutters to cut the clamp. Then remove the tube completely off of the back and do the PHH bypass around the break booster.
It is a royal pain to get the tube off of the back and to get it back in place. So, I would just remove it completely from the system.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom