Need advice on a complete suspension/bushing overhaul (2 Viewers)

Zjohnsonua

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The advantage to the 35s hasn't been stressed enough here. If you're building this truck for the purpose of spending long amounts of time on terrible roads, then do your future-self a solid and go to 35s, then run 'em at ~12 psi off pavement. Go one further and get D-rated instead of E-rated tires and it'll be one very, very comfy ride. We have spent literal days on the trail in her 80 and felt zero fatigue because of this.

Couple that with any of the suspension options mentioned here (I would lean towards a progressive rate, but you know what's said of opinions...) and you'll enjoy it.

Do not underestimate the value of 4.88s with 35s. The truck has 0% labor, even at altitude. Buy once, cry once. I promise you'll thank yourself later.
 
Joined
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Upstate, SC
I haven't read all the responses, but here's my two cents:

Forget about the OME lift. Yes, it's tried and true, but a linear rate spring is just less versatile than dual rate or progressive rate options available these days and limits suspension travel in the event you do decide to get twisted up in a rock section. 2-3 inch lift is plenty, no need to go higher unless you're going for 37's.

I replaced all my suspension bushings with OEM. It was a lot of work, but totally worth it.

Get caster plates (or Delta arms), not caster bushings.

I run 315s mainly for looks (yes, I'll admit it). The truth is the truck will go where you need to go on 32's. I wheeled several seasons on 265/75r16 and got where I needed to go, even showed up a few folks along the way. The 315's improve the ride quality and limit bucking and drama off road. But mainly they just look good. I live in Colorado and do road trips and occasionally haul a trailer and I can tolerate the tire size with stock gears. 4.88's are on the wish list, but they're not necessary.

The advantage to the 35s hasn't been stressed enough here. If you're building this truck for the purpose of spending long amounts of time on terrible roads, then do your future-self a solid and go to 35s, then run 'em at ~12 psi off pavement. Go one further and get D-rated instead of E-rated tires and it'll be one very, very comfy ride. We have spent literal days on the trail in her 80 and felt zero fatigue because of this.

Couple that with any of the suspension options mentioned here (I would lean towards a progressive rate, but you know what's said of opinions...) and you'll enjoy it.

Do not underestimate the value of 4.88s with 35s. The truck has 0% labor, even at altitude. Buy once, cry once. I promise you'll thank yourself later.

What shocks/spring brands would you all recommend?

315s do look great, I'm likely 6 months to a year away from that decision so we'll see if I have the funds for a re-gear. Otherwise, 285s.

I checked the dates on the current tires and they are from 2003. :clap:
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
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406
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Florida
Stock bushings…from akella (spl?) joeys bushing dies to press out the bushings and 20tone press from harbor freight…go slow and steady…and don’t be scared by the bangs…it’s better than sockets flying across the shop ;)
Then springs if your choice…add shocks sway bar drops and lower bump stops, extended break lines and extend the axle breathers…job done
 

alia176

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That pop can surprise you, that's for sure!! Just did mine last weekend.

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flintknapper

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That pop can surprise you, that's for sure!! Just did mine last weekend.

Especially if it happens while applying heat to it.

I put as much pressure as I dared on my press and expected something to explode if I kept going. So decided to leave the pressure on and just heat the area. Naturally, you're kind of close to the part when doing that. When it finally pops....it is startling for sure.

The second one is worse than the first....because of the anticipation and you know how violent its going to be. :oops:
 
Joined
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Location
Colorado
What shocks/spring brands would you all recommend?

315s do look great, I'm likely 6 months to a year away from that decision so we'll see if I have the funds for a re-gear. Otherwise, 285s.

I checked the dates on the current tires and they are from 2003. :clap:

The 33/35 bit for gearing is entirely meh. They suck on 33s on 35s on 37s. Honestly with stock gears bigger is better because second gear is good for higher RPM and you can start to run 3rd at consistent highway speeds.

The only issue with larger tires on an 80 is you’ll get into front axle bearing preload work a bit more frequently.

Sticking with 33s for gearing is a complete waste of money, although there’s also no reason to get bigger tires if you don’t need them, other than they last longer.
 

alia176

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Tijeras, NM
Especially if it happens while applying heat to it.

I put as much pressure as I dared on my press and expected something to explode if I kept going. So decided to leave the pressure on and just heat the area. Naturally, you're kind of close to the part when doing that. When it finally pops....it is startling for sure.

The second one is worse than the first....because of the anticipation and you know how violent its going to be. :oops:

This was the first time I used the HF pneumatic 20T press for this project and I was totally impressed with how air over hyd made this project SO much more efficient. I didn't even need to pump the handle, the jack did it's thing. The pumping sound slowed down as the pressure got higher but it popped every one of them loose and not really with a large BANG like I'm used to with my previous 20T hyd only jack. With a helper stabilizing the end of the radius arms, I say we spend less than 15 min per arm. It was amazingly fast and felt safe.
 

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