Need advice! FJ40 for sale (1 Viewer)

[brp0830]

Found this on Facebook and I’m interested in her. What are y’all thoughts? Kind of new to fj’s, so what should I look for/ask when speaking with this person? Thanks in advance!

Post from owner.... “Time has come for me to part with my 1971 Fj40. V8 swapped with Chevy 350, spring over kit, 35 inch km2 tires, spartan lockers front and rear, disc break conversion, 3 core aluminum radiator with massive cooling fan, original Toyota 3 spd trans. Truck is extremely driveable and a blast. I do not have the hardtop but have 3 sets of doors ( hard half doors, hard full doors, and soft full doors). Minimal amount of rust at bottom of rear tub but not bad at all. Would be an awesome truck with new paint. “

 

[brp0830]

Here’s a few more

 

[Tancruiser]

What’s he asking for it?

 

[brp0830]

$10,000

 

[tstepp920]

DON"T
Lots not right with that thing. If you are going to sling it threw mud and pound it on rocks ...OK but not for 10K.

 

[airon23]

Definitely not worth $10,000. Maybe half that, but yeah good amount not right on that thing.

 

[workingdog]

You guys are so unrealistic about the price of cruisers. If it's rust free, and I'm not saying it is, but there's no obvious sign of rust, it's worth more than $5k. No one is selling decent 40's for $5k. And most of the stuff being complained about isn't worth much money. Maybe it's not worth $10k, but it's worth more than $5k - if it's not a rust bucket. I'd buy it for $5k, just for the tub if it's not too rusty.

 

[onemanarmy]

Sellers are unrealistic too. They see resto mods going for $50+k and they think their junk is worth gold.

 

[REKCUT]

Asking what something is worth on here is probably the biggest waste of time you'll ever endure. Many folks are stuck in the 80's on price and others think the cruisers are made out of gold. Depending on truck you'll get more than double the value from high to low. I agree on this one that at 5k it would sell in minutes.

There is no answer for "whats it worth". You need to do research on what it cost to get a truck where you want it and what time it will take and then jump in where you are comfortable. Ask what you see that wrong, what are possible problems, and then see what you'll need to do to get it to the next step. You also cant just add up the upgrades or subtract and get your price. I.E. a nice clean 3spd will not sell for the price the same truck with a 4spd - the cost of the upgrade. It doesn't work that way. Get as much of a finished product as you can afford and then go from there. Also try and spend money on upgrades you cant do yourself. I personally find rust a deal killer as i can do most repairs mechanical but not body work.

You'll drive yourself crazy trying to get affirmation on a purchase here.

 

[REKCUT]

Its not a purist truck but sprung over turned axles, disk brakes, tires, new looking hubs, 8274. Are we close to 5k in mods alone

 

[REKCUT]

@Lil'John You also live in the fantasy land of California. (i don't mean that as a negitive)Most of the rest of us don't get to see rust free trucks in the numbers you do. Supply and demand are a definite factor. Ive seen many trucks in our area bring much more than the 10k asking. I am also going off pics and might completely change my mind if i saw it in person

 

[workingdog]

I agree, people are asking insane prices. I'd love to get a list of actual sales on 40's and their prices.

 

[REKCUT]

From what I've looked at, you are not going to find a 40 under 10k that doesn't have issues that need fixing. Just got to jump in where you are comfortable.

 

[workingdog]

@REKCUT - EXACTLY!!!!

I'm going through the same thing on my 60 that's for sale. What about this and that. If I had addressed this and that, it'd be $10,000 more.

 

[cruiserboy14]

my 2 cents, prices suck. its a 10,000 and up market. when I was looking I found quite a few. I almost bought quite a few... but I would weigh the cost of repairs vs the cost to buy. I finally found a cruised that had 98% of the parts but some assembly required. I was told by many that it wasn't worth the 12,000 he wanted. you have to make the best decision you can (ultimately) yourself. if I wouldn't have, I wouldn't have a cruiser. best decision I made was to wait for "my" cruiser. one that gave me the right feeling.

good luck.. we're all counting on you..

 

[workingdog]

So, to the OP, if you want to know about this cruiser in particular, we could use more pictures.

 

[tstepp920]

Lesson learned.....whatever you, and your buddies, think it will cost. Double it.

 

[1969FJ]

I agree, people are asking insane prices. I'd love to get a list of actual sales on 40's and their prices.

All that information is out there. Hagerty is a good place. So is Hemmings. Auction sites also. In this case , I will show current Hagerty valuation for FJ40 , and seems average cost for FAIR condition is right at 10,000.00. So , if this FJ40 is at least fair, the price is fine.

 

[loosechange]

that looks like a Arizona plate. i see then in phoenix a lot. that winch and the bracket to hold it is huge and blocks that radiator ask him what the temp in the summer when he drives it...does he take it on the hi way?

heads up about the weird brake lever on the winch...that winch is like mine,,,and mine works great to get others of of bad situations.
Its the grandfather the the 8274..its a Bellevue winch, the only thing it doesn't do it pay out and have remote. its what warn developed and designed to be the 8274. I have two and if this seller has at the right cables for it (solenoid, brake and Neutral with the panel) then that alone is a great era appropriate winch although nothing else on that truck seems to be.


i have 4 wheel disks and i think my drums worked just as well

my concern is i didn't see a residual valve for the rear brakes at the master cylinder or any proportioning valve that could be an issue concerning the 2 lbs vs 6 lbs issue ...

too many things i can't really see..exhaust for one . out the back? sides? under? will you tear them off going over tree across a trail.

replacing that whole back end by chopping in lights at the rear fenders i think really depreciates not just quality of the truck but the Hot damn thats an awesome ride factor as well

i see windshield bumpers but i don't see the hold downs?
i don't see wiper arms
where the original steering wheel?

at least it has locker(?) I've been out of the game for 10 years my fj40 is still on stands but i thought Spartan only made a rear locker of the fj40?

be very hesitant. if the rear SOA is a bad setup I would only assume the whole SOA is as well. as yes the turned and cut knuckles would be needed for proper operation it keeps the pinion at a proper degree as well as caster or camber i think as well.

i would personally take a look and drive it then talk to the owner about paying less. it doesn't look like a great job has been done to it.

not sure where you are taking it to but it looks like an AZ antique plate and with the winch that high to cover the radiator like it does...Wow it must be a beast to drive in the summer which out here in Phoenix it was 115 last week.
very very careful since you don't know the casting number for those heads..if they are typical check truck heads could also be an issue 333882's are the "Best" of the worst heads. They are the heavy weight casting. As noted, they are crack prone thru the center exhaust seats. They will flow fairly well if the intake side is port matched and the upper part of the exhaust port is blended. Bowl work is also needed, as is the case with most Chevy production heads.

then again 5,000.00? please. go buy a 8274 winch and see what it costs...over 1200.00 at least the bellevue is usable if it was taken care of. and the tires that size and type with rims...easily another 1500.00 but not 10,000.00 however as stated it hard to find any not messed with for under.


personally i want a hardtop and full doors but if its going to be a weekend driver maybe but not 10,000.00

looks like its been crunched a bit too since the aprons and hood aren't really aligned and the aprons appear bent...does it track straight still? is yes. so what kind of work was done to keep it aligned?
no way.

weak link no pun intended is the 3 speed and transfer..i just didn't learn that until i was too far invested without knowledge into my 72 fj40
not a good combo with a 350 engine and huge tires....especially a newer engine. mine is 250hp max at like 4200 rpm or something
but mine is also a c3 L-82 motor from a 1977 corvette so its OLD.

just go take it for a spin and see how it handles

I'm uneasy but good luck in your search...dont jump at the first one...we may be fanatics here but someone may even let one go here to you..who knows. research and look for a local club to join as well and mine them too for info as well...the old guard will definitely help you out as well as newbies as much as possible

 

[1969FJ]

that looks like a Arizona plate. i see then in phoenix a lot. that winch and the bracket to hold it is huge and blocks that radiator ask him what the temp in the summer when he drives it...does he take it on the hi way?

heads up about the weird brake lever on the winch...that winch is like mine,,,and mine works great to get others of of bad situations.
Its the grandfather the the 8274..its a Bellevue winch, the only thing it doesn't do it pay out and have remote. its what warn developed and designed to be the 8274. I have two and if this seller has at the right cables for it (solenoid, brake and Neutral with the panel) then that alone is a great era appropriate winch although nothing else on that truck seems to be.


i have 4 wheel disks and i think my drums worked just as well

my concern is i didn't see a residual valve for the rear brakes at the master cylinder or any proportioning valve that could be an issue concerning the 2 lbs vs 6 lbs issue ...

too many things i can't really see..exhaust for one . out the back? sides? under? will you tear them off going over tree across a trail.

replacing that whole back end by chopping in lights at the rear fenders i think really depreciates not just quality of the truck but the Hot damn thats an awesome ride factor as well

i see windshield bumpers but i don't see the hold downs?
i don't see wiper arms
where the original steering wheel?

at least it has locker(?) I've been out of the game for 10 years my fj40 is still on stands but i thought Spartan only made a rear locker of the fj40?

be very hesitant. if the rear SOA is a bad setup I would only assume the whole SOA is as well. as yes the turned and cut knuckles would be needed for proper operation it keeps the pinion at a proper degree as well as caster or camber i think as well.

i would personally take a look and drive it then talk to the owner about paying less. it doesn't look like a great job has been done to it.

not sure where you are taking it to but it looks like an AZ antique plate and with the winch that high to cover the radiator like it does...Wow it must be a beast to drive in the summer which out here in Phoenix it was 115 last week.
very very careful since you don't know the casting number for those heads..if they are typical check truck heads could also be an issue 333882's are the "Best" of the worst heads. They are the heavy weight casting. As noted, they are crack prone thru the center exhaust seats. They will flow fairly well if the intake side is port matched and the upper part of the exhaust port is blended. Bowl work is also needed, as is the case with most Chevy production heads.

then again 5,000.00? please. go buy a 8274 winch and see what it costs...over 1200.00 at least the bellevue is usable if it was taken care of. and the tires that size and type with rims...easily another 1500.00 but not 10,000.00 however as stated it hard to find any not messed with for under.


personally i want a hardtop and full doors but if its going to be a weekend driver maybe but not 10,000.00

looks like its been crunched a bit too since the aprons and hood aren't really aligned and the aprons appear bent...does it track straight still? is yes. so what kind of work was done to keep it aligned?
no way.

weak link no pun intended is the 3 speed and transfer..i just didn't learn that until i was too far invested without knowledge into my 72 fj40
not a good combo with a 350 engine and huge tires....especially a newer engine. mine is 250hp max at like 4200 rpm or something
but mine is also a c3 L-82 motor from a 1977 corvette so its OLD.

just go take it for a spin and see how it handles

I'm uneasy but good luck in your search...dont jump at the first one...we may be fanatics here but someone may even let one go here to you..who knows. research and look for a local club to join as well and mine them too for info as well...the old guard will definitely help you out as well as newbies as much as possible

Well spoken, but, beauty and function is in the eye of the beholder.