Need a jump 2-3 times a week! (1 Viewer)

[ToyotaMatt]

I don't have a 2005 TLC though! I have a 1990 FJ62. Would it still work?

Yes ,

there faithful reproduction battery cables based off the original oem design ...

 

[22590FJ62]

I don't have a 2005 TLC though! I have a 1990 FJ62. Would it still work?

Cool! So what AWG is needed for the positive side and what AWG is needed for the negative side? Also, can I buy them pre-cut and already with the connections on the end or will I need to do all of that myself? I see options for 3/8", 5/8", etc. connections.

 

[22590FJ62]

IS IT THIS ONE?

 

[Skniper]

Yeah, sorry I forgot to address this! NTB wasn't very helpful but they did replace my positive (red) terminal. It was shot. I think that changing the cables would be a wonderful move...should I go with some snazzy marine grade ones like suggested and/or is that what @ToyotaMatt has to offer?

Just caught this thread, honestly looking closely at your engine photos, that thing looks pretty clean and unmolested, very original. Two obvious problems and they are not related.....electrical connections, and missing air pump belt...probably because the old pump seized and they ran a short bypass belt.
The air pump is the big gray thing in your first photo without a belt on its pulley. It's a 'deal with it later issue', but have you tried turning that pulley yet? Is it stuck, is it crunchy, catching?


I was going to ask if the Postive battery clamp was replaced, the lead (Pb) ring looked cracked in half (your first photo in post #16), it happens, just replaced my Negative battery clamp an hour ago for the same exact reason.

The fusible links are also in the same photo attached to the positive battery post, they are the ones that have all the frayed fabric covering on them. Honestly, despite what others have said, your fusible links don't look bad, hell even the black plastic clip is still on the alternator fus.link.
There should be 3 separate fusible link connector rings, it's actually 5 wires in all, but one connector combines 3 wires. Look at these closely for looseness, damage, burnt, cracked insulation. Pay no attention to the frayed fabric coverings unless it looks burnt.

Start basic, yes, as suggested you could benefit from some new battery cables, but first remove the battery connections and clean them well with a wire brush, light sandpaper, a batt. terminal brush tool, whatever. Get all metal contact points shiny.
Remove the cable connections (on the pos and neg clamps) and fusible link connections on the positive clamp and clean all surfaces the same way...to shiny metal. And the lead battery posts too. Put it all back together nice and snug.

Follow the big cable from the positive battery around the fender and down to the starter under the truck, does that connection look solid, is it tight? The starter should also have a ground cable on it that attaches to the frame.
Follow the big cable from the negative battery, it should ground on the fender right next to the battery, then it continues down and grounds on the motor mount, which is hard to see, but you can lift up the inner fender skirt and should be able to see the end of the cable there.
At least clean up the ground point on the fender, you can't get to the other one.

Slow down and knock out the very basics first.

You might consider just removing the whole PO kill switch thing...no telling what gremlins that thing is giving you.

 

[22590FJ62]

Just caught this thread, honestly looking closely at your engine photos, that thing looks pretty clean and unmolested, very original. Two obvious problems and they are not related.....electrical connections, and missing air pump belt...probably because the old pump seized and they ran a short bypass belt.
The air pump is the big gray thing in your first photo without a belt on its pulley. It's a 'deal with it later issue', but have you tried turning that pulley yet? Is it stuck, is it crunchy, catching?


I was going to ask if the Postive battery clamp was replaced, the lead (Pb) ring looked cracked in half (your first photo in post #16), it happens, just replaced my Negative battery clamp an hour ago for the same exact reason.

The fusible links are also in the same photo attached to the positive battery post, they are the ones that have all the frayed fabric covering on them. Honestly, despite what others have said, your fusible links don't look bad, hell even the black plastic clip is still on the alternator fus.link.
There should be 3 separate fusible link connector rings, it's actually 5 wires in all, but one connector combines 3 wires. Look at these closely for looseness, damage, burnt, cracked insulation. Pay no attention to the frayed fabric coverings unless it looks burnt.

Start basic, yes, as suggested you could benefit from some new battery cables, but first remove the battery connections and clean them well with a wire brush, light sandpaper, a batt. terminal brush tool, whatever. Get all metal contact points shiny.
Remove the cable connections (on the pos and neg clamps) and fusible link connections on the positive clamp and clean all surfaces the same way...to shiny metal. And the lead battery posts too. Put it all back together nice and snug.

Follow the big cable from the positive battery around the fender and down to the starter under the truck, does that connection look solid, is it tight? The starter should also have a ground cable on it that attaches to the frame.
Follow the big cable from the negative battery, it should ground on the fender right next to the battery, then it continues down and grounds on the motor mount, which is hard to see, but you can lift up the inner fender skirt and should be able to see the end of the cable there.
At least clean up the ground point on the fender, you can't get to the other one.

Slow down and knock out the very basics first.

You might consider just removing the whole PO kill switch thing...no telling what gremlins that thing is giving you.

Your play-by-play instructions are EXCELLENT. I think you realize my ignorance to vehicles, in general, but you're kind enough to be that guy to walk me through it because you know that even though I'm not yet "in the know" that I am actually capable of learning (and want to!). I will do all of this suggested this weekend.

The air pump pulley is stuck...almost as if it's welded or permanently locked in place. Nobody has really given me a clear indication of what it does and why I need it...but my thought process is that it wouldn't have come with the vehicle if I didn't actually need it for something, right?

 

[Seth S]

Your play-by-play instructions are EXCELLENT. I think you realize my ignorance to vehicles, in general, but you're kind enough to be that guy to walk me through it because you know that even though I'm not yet "in the know" that I am actually capable of learning (and want to!). I will do all of this suggested this weekend.

The air pump pulley is stuck...almost as if it's welded or permanently locked in place. Nobody has really given me a clear indication of what it does and why I need it...but my thought process is that it wouldn't have come with the vehicle if I didn't actually need it for something, right?

the air pump literally pumps air into the exhaust and it does this to make the catalytic converter work properly. If you live in a state that does not require an annual emissions test then you don’t need to fix it.

 

[Skniper]

It's all good. Easy to want to eat the elephant in one bite, and easy for those in the know to get way ahead of the newbie types.

What Seth said on the air pump. It's there for a reason but its inoperation won't kill your truck. It's a smog control device. They are well known 'round these parts at this point in their age (30+ years) for failing and seizing, when that happens it trashes the belt. It has to be bypassed, removed, or rebuilt. Some, if able, will opt to "desmog" their trucks....removing air pump, block off EGR function, etc.. It cleans out a lot of excess crap from the engine bay. Don't worry about that now.

 

[22590FJ62]

It's all good. Easy to want to eat the elephant in one bite, and easy for those in the know to get way ahead of the newbie types.

What Seth said on the air pump. It's there for a reason but its inoperation won't kill your truck. It's a smog control device. They are well known 'round these parts at this point in their age (30+ years) for failing and seizing, when that happens it trashes the belt. It has to be bypassed, removed, or rebuilt. Some, if able, will opt to "desmog" their trucks....removing air pump, block off EGR function, etc.. It cleans out a lot of excess crap from the engine bay. Don't worry about that now.

Well, that's perfect news! I live in Louisiana, which is home to an ungodly amount of plants and factories that do way worse damage in the long run than 10,000 of these Cruisers would do. I'll leave it alone for now. Thanks again.

 

[Skniper]

You might post some detailed pics of the kill switch, and what it is connected to. Plenty of electrophiles here that can help with that.
Above my pay grade.

 

[cruisermatt]

What it ultimately boils down to is that you have a wire or connection on your cruiser that isn’t allowing current to flow. Before replacing or doing anything anything I would identify where that problem is.
Buy a multimeter and learn to use it. It’s not difficult. You have the entire internet at your fingertips to help as well.

 

[22590FJ62]

What it ultimately boils down to is that you have a wire or connection on your cruiser that isn’t allowing current to flow. Before replacing or doing anything anything I would identify where that problem is.
Buy a multimeter and learn to use it. It’s not difficult. You have the entire internet at your fingertips to help as well.

I will get a multimeter and train myself on it. As for the internet and since there's a lot of bad information out there, I'd rather stick to the more patient members of this forum to help me as they can. Believe me, I will definitely pay it forward when I get to the point where I'm confident with certain things. What I won't do is try to help someone by guessing at it and thusly and potentially adding to their problem. I came to this forum because I have a close friend in Alabama with an FJ40 and he swears by you guys/gals.

 

[22590FJ62]

You might post some detailed pics of the kill switch, and what it is connected to. Plenty of electrophiles here that can help with that.
Above my pay grade.

I will do this asap

 

[22590FJ62]

You might post some detailed pics of the kill switch, and what it is connected to. Plenty of electrophiles here that can help with that.
Above my pay grade.

 

[22590FJ62]

You might post some detailed pics of the kill switch, and what it is connected to. Plenty of electrophiles here that can help with that.
Above my pay grade.

This post and the one immediately prior are in response to 2 requests for what the kill switch looks like. The photos may be a bit out of order but you can get an idea of what I’m looking at.

 

[Seth S]

Thats unique. Does it actually kill the truck if you shut it off while you are running? Thats really more of a remote battery disconnect that allows you to disconnect the ground wire easily without opening the hood. I'm not sure I'd call that a kill switch though....even if it does actually kill the truck.

The wires and connectors don't look too healthy.

 

[cruisermatt]

hold on! Is that kill switch inline with the ground cable, going to a bolt on the firewall, and THE ONLY GROUND YOU HAVE off the battery? Nothing to the chassis or engine?? Well, found your problem

 

[cruisermatt]

That is absolutely, 100%, your problem. I'm actually amazed it runs at all. Rip that kill switch out, buy either @ToyotaMatt battery cable kit or @Fourrunner heavy duty battery cable kit, install them, and have no more problems with this.

OEM style cables (2 AWG)

VintgeTEqParts FJ / BJ / HJ 60 / 62 Series Technical Solutions ........

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Welcome To the : VintgeTEqParts 60 / 62 Series Technical Solutions Tread .... Ever since i was a teenager growing up in the 1990's , i have had a passion for anything TOYOTA ...

forum.ih8mud.com

Heavy Duty cable kit (1/0 AWG) (good idea if you're going to be adding a lot of electrical accessories in the future, which, based on this thread, you should probably seek professional help with )

FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets

The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available. The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80) Kit includes: Battery positive to starter cable (with protective...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Skniper]

hold on! Is that kill switch inline with the ground cable, going to a bolt on the firewall, and THE ONLY GROUND YOU HAVE off the battery? Nothing to the chassis or engine?? Well, found your problem

Was following the ground in the pics and thought the same thing Matt. You can see in that last pic the ground at the fender has been cut off.
What the hell is that thing? For a kill switch, it ain't very stealth. Agree, pull all that sh!t out.

Also what is the bright red cable in the footwell and exits the firewall and seems to reappear on top of the air cleaner? Amp?

 

[Gretsch]

Seeing those photos....all I can say is WOW. Its a Christmas miracle. Calling @ToyotaMatt @Fourrunner.

For some insight as to how it should be stock:

Now this is for an FJ60, but I think its similar if not the same for a 62. The ground strap goes to a bolt mounting the battery tray on the inner fender and then goes off to a stud on the compressor bracket. Hard to see with the compressor on the bracket but its there. The @Fourrunner kit includes two cables for this where the stock ground strap was one cable with a sort of lug in the middle where it attaches to the fender. Some photos of mine which might illustrate the routing:

 

[cruisermatt]

you can never have too many grounds as well.