Need a jump 2-3 times a week! (1 Viewer)

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You should be able to get to the top bolt from top of the engine bay. I had to lean over the fender pretty deep in the engine bay to access it though. 62 had a bunch of air intake stuff right there if memory serves so might not be as easy as it is on mine. Top 'bolt' I think is actually a nut on a stud, although mine came off by having the stud spin out of the bellhousing mount. There is not much to the starter removal. Just harder to access that top bolt. Like @Fourrunner says, deep socket and an extension should get to it. You're young. If I can do it surely you can. GL and HTH.
 
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Any updates? :popcorn:
Updates: I was having an overheating problem. Took it to my mechanic who noticed a crack in my 30 year old radiator. I used this forum to find the part I needed. Had a CSF 2708 installed on Thursday. The starting issue still happens. I ordered a remanufactured starter from JT Outfitters that came in last week. The same mechanic is installing that today. The only other thing it could be is the ignition switch but, regardless, a new starter for a vehicle built 9/1989 won’t hurt.
 
Mechanic called me this afternoon! The install was a success and they said it started immediately. I hope this fixes the issue. If it does, I can move on to the wiring issues associated with the two fuses I’ve removed; cig and dome. I may also have a failing oil pressure gauge (I’ve recently replaced the oil pressure sender under the oil filter).
 
Okay, so the starter is working flawlessly but something big happened today. We had a heavy thunderstorm and as I was driving to work, I went through a decent size puddle (6-7 inches) of water. Nancy died on me...luckily I had enough forward momentum to get off of the road. She had to sit for about 10 minutes before she successfully turned over but when I tried to accelerate she died again. Another start and a 5 minute wait and she was going again. Is it normal for a vehicle that’s marketed as an overland/offroad vehicle to do this or is she just old and likely has something electrical exposed that would cause this to happen?
 
Okay, so the starter is working flawlessly but something big happened today. We had a heavy thunderstorm and as I was driving to work, I went through a decent size puddle (6-7 inches) of water. Nancy died on me...luckily I had enough forward momentum to get off of the road. She had to sit for about 10 minutes before she successfully turned over but when I tried to accelerate she died again. Another start and a 5 minute wait and she was going again. Is it normal for a vehicle that’s marketed as an overland/offroad vehicle to do this or is she just old and likely has something electrical exposed that would cause this to happen?

When was the last time you replaced the spark plug wires and coil wire?

my first vehicle was a 77 International Scout II with a 304 V8 and TF727 3 spd transmission. One night driving home in a snow storm the truck died and cranking only resulted in a backfire. Later I went to collect the truck and it ran fine...but after a night of rain it wouldn't start. Turns out the plug wires were old and cracked and the moisture would short them out and prevent starting. The redneck low $ fix is to spray the wires with WD40 when it happens. The proper fix is to put new plug wires in ;)

Alternatively it could be water got under your Cap as well.


One last edit:

When you say "Successfully turned over"....do you mean that the starter wouldn't engage and crank the engine....or do you mean that the starter worked fine, the engine cranked, but it wouldn't start?
 
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When was the last time you replaced the spark plug wires and coil wire?

my first vehicle was a 77 International Scout II with a 304 V8 and TF727 3 spd transmission. One night driving home in a snow storm the truck died and cranking only resulted in a backfire. Later I went to collect the truck and it ran fine...but after a night of rain it wouldn't start. Turns out the plug wires were old and cracked and the moisture would short them out and prevent starting. The redneck low $ fix is to spray the wires with WD40 when it happens. The proper fix is to put new plug wires in ;)

Alternatively it could be water got under your Cap as well.


One last edit:

When you say "Successfully turned over"....do you mean that the starter wouldn't engage and crank the engine....or do you mean that the starter worked fine, the engine cranked, but it wouldn't start?
I have not replaced the spark plugs or the wires and the vehicle sat for a few years before I took ownership.

When I said successfully turned over I meant the engine started fine. Like I said, the starter is working confidently. But the water went so high that it came into the cabin (I had the window cracked smoking a cig).
 
I have not replaced the spark plugs or the wires and the vehicle sat for a few years before I took ownership.

When I said successfully turned over I meant the engine started fine. Like I said, the starter is working confidently. But the water went so high that it came into the cabin (I had the window cracked smoking a cig).

Ok. Highly recommend replacing the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. Until you get the new parts keep a can of WD40 with you and if it stalls again around water....pop the hood and spray the plug wires and cap with it.
 
Ok. Highly recommend replacing the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. Until you get the new parts keep a can of WD40 with you and if it stalls again around water....pop the hood and spray the plug wires and cap with it.
You guys are life savers. Thanks Seth!
 
Ok. Highly recommend replacing the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. Until you get the new parts keep a can of WD40 with you and if it stalls again around water....pop the hood and spray the plug wires and cap with it.
So far, I’ve found the plugs and the wires (both NGK) as well as the cap. What I’m unsure of is the rotor. Should that be an inexpensive (under $30) item or one over $100...because I’ve found a complete ignition distributor assembly with the cap included and it’s $160.
 
So far, I’ve found the plugs and the wires (both NGK) as well as the cap. What I’m unsure of is the rotor. Should that be an inexpensive (under $30) item or one over $100...because I’ve found a complete ignition distributor assembly with the cap included and it’s $160.

You don't need to replace distributor, just the cap.
 
Rotor should be cheap like $5. I see 5 different ones on Rockauto for $2-$5. Even the Toyota one should be pretty inexpensive.
 
Perfect!! Current cart:

— 6 NGK Iridium IX BPR5EIX #6597 spark plugs via Amazon
— 1 NGK RC-TX19 spark plug wire set via Amazon
— 1 Ignition Rotor [SKU 551-206] via CruiserCorps
— 1 OEM Distributor Cap [SKU 525-367] via CruiserCorps
 
Maybe replace the belts too?

Do you have the rubber flaps in the front wheel arch as they prevent water splashing into the engine bay?

Also maybe a new air filter might help as when it gets wet it might rip/shear faster and backfire can also make a hole in the filter.


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Maybe replace the belts too?

Do you have the rubber flaps in the front wheel arch as they prevent water splashing into the engine bay?

Also maybe a new air filter might help as when it gets wet it might rip/shear faster and backfire can also make a hole in the filter.

All of my belts are new and my air filter is new, but I will check them this weekend. As for the flaps...they are partial. There is a hole in the top of my distributor cap that I think needs a rubber hose so that it can still breathe but so that water doesn’t get into it. This is an off-road vehicle. It died on me in a flooded road. What happens when I’m miles from civilization, in the woods and go through a mud hole? This needs to be addressed and fixed before I go camping/hunting this winter.
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The rubber flaps makes a difference. I initially took them off as I thought it will make hot air escape faster from the engine bay...But after going through a puddle of 5-6 inch water at around 60kmh, it almost died on me. When i got back and opened the hood, my batteries, alternator, top engine were wet with water. I installed the flaps back following day..Since then, no more issues after going through large water puddles 😎
 
It seems to be a distributor cap vent hole, seems a bit important to connect with vacuum somewhere, but not all caps have them so plugging it for now seems fine (?)

below link has another link with picture:
 
Don’t plug it. It should have a line on it but I can’t remember the exact routing other than it goes to a vsv
 
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The rubber flaps makes a difference. I initially took them off as I thought it will make hot air escape faster from the engine bay...But after going through a puddle of 5-6 inch water at around 60kmh, it almost died on me. When i got back and opened the hood, my batteries, alternator, top engine were wet with water. I installed the flaps back following day..Since then, no more issues after going through large water puddles 😎
Anywhere I could get aftermarket flaps? Like something WAY more substantial than what came stock? I feel like the American market got these vehicles as highway cruisin kid carriers and, while that's nice and all, they didn't factor in what would happen 20-30 years later when people wanted to use these vehicles not only as daily drivers but also as off-road beasts, like they were intended and built for for foreign markets.
 

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