NATO tow hook ?? (2 Viewers)

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Even my international manual (which contains everything from the OEM winch to the standard fire extinguisher) doesn't provide a rating for the 80.

Popped open my Nissan Patrol GU manual and it too didn't provide any useful information.

I guess only Mitsubishi (on their Pajero) has the balls to rate their pintle hooks. hehe
 
Sorry for the grave dig.. I'm wondering if this specific style of pintle hook (with a cast tow ball) would be suitable as a recovery point? I'm looking to remove the hayman reese towbar as it hangs too low for my liking when wheeling. Using something like this would retain a recovery point, tow ball and improve departure angle.
 
Sorry for the grave dig.. I'm wondering if this specific style of pintle hook (with a cast tow ball) would be suitable as a recovery point? I'm looking to remove the hayman reese towbar as it hangs too low for my liking when wheeling. Using something like this would retain a recovery point, tow ball and improve departure angle.
It's not so much the Pintle Hook that you need to worry about. It's more than adequate as a recovery point. The question is whether or not you want to introduce such a dynamic strain on the center crossmember that it's bolted to. I think it's always safer to use hooks that are inline with one of the two main frame members, especially if it's a heavy recovery. Now having said that, I've used the Toyota OEM pintle hook on my FZJ75 many times for desert sand recoveries without any issue. The Holland ball pintle is every bit as strong as the OEM Toyota pintle if that's maybe your specific question.
 
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Recently dove down this rabbit hole, hoping to find justification for bolting on a Curt or similar Class III hitch and using it as such.

The other night in the snow a semi tractor was stuck on the highway and I dragged him up a hill with the pintle hitch. He had a chain, which was very not ideal. Still, I did my best to minimize shock loading, but there were a couple (not too bad I didn’t think).

Visibly bent my crossmember. Subtle, but definitely there. Pulled it out at the bottom.

FYI for anyone thinking about it.

I’ll be getting a plate bumper with integrated hitch, or at minimum a proper class III frame mounted hitch.

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pulled a semi truck with the the stock crossmember, and it bent... I'd like to solve the puzzle, Pat...
 
pulled a semi truck with the the stock crossmember, and it bent... I'd like to solve the puzzle, Pat...

Hahaha

It was slippery, it was just the tractor, and I was as gentle as was possible given the circumstance - I can see the same amount of jerk being present in a more vigorous recovery of a lighter vehicle
 
Any decent fabrication shop could whip something like that up in no time.

I'd be worried about concentrating all those forces at the center of the crossmember during a recovery, but that wasn't your question.
 
The big difference, as I understand it, and I am nowhere near an expert, is the difference between static and dynamic loads and the increased forces on dynamic loads like recovery versus towing.
 
The big difference, as I understand it, and I am nowhere near an expert, is the difference between static and dynamic loads and the increased forces on dynamic loads like recovery versus towing.

yes, dynamic via 'yanking' is much more severe. However my use for this would be very minor, if ever needed. this particular cruiser i have in mind is more a lite duty cruiser for nice days.
 
these seem to be a standard military thing because it makes connecting/disconnecting quick and easy. It's not as precise as a towball connection.
 
The big difference, as I understand it, and I am nowhere near an expert, is the difference between static and dynamic loads and the increased forces on dynamic loads like recovery versus towing.
I have made a small spacer to fit inside my pintle hitch so it doesn't KLUNK so bad when changing back and forth between towing and braking.
 
yea...super simple. I see 'bolt on' pieces like this in a variety of bolt patterns, but not the stock toyota crossmember pattern...maybe I'm not using the proper search terms?

If the crossmemeber is rated for pintle hitch towing duty, some lite recovery work shouldn't be too bad.
I used a bolt on pintle ring at first, but I was not comfortable towing heavy loads offroad. So I tossed the Slee bumper and opted for a Luke's 4x4 for much better clearance. It has a 2" receiver tube built in that is pretty stout. But I added a long piece of steel on top of thr tube and welded it together to the top plate of the bumper and the receiver. Its a little ugly, but invisible, and it ties the top and bottom of the bumper together.
 
yea...super simple. I see 'bolt on' pieces like this in a variety of bolt patterns, but not the stock toyota crossmember pattern...maybe I'm not using the proper search terms?

If the crossmemeber is rated for pintle hitch towing duty, some lite recovery work shouldn't be too bad.
Unless I've just been really lucky, the 80 series bolt pattern is the standard four bolt pattern for hitches. Every one I've put on an 80 fit like it was made for it. Oh, and the size is the same as the seatbelt anchor - M14x2.0, which is also a 7/16-20, or so close it doesn't matter. Both fit into the weldnuts.

M2.0 and 20UNF.jpg
 
Unless I've just been really lucky, the 80 series bolt pattern is the standard four bolt pattern for hitches. Every one I've put on an 80 fit like it was made for it. Oh, and the size is the same as the seatbelt anchor - M14x2.0, which is also a 7/16-20, or so close it doesn't matter. Both fit into the weldnuts.

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Sounds about right. When I still had my Slee bumper I found out that 2 of the 4 weld nuts were GONE, and the other 2 were not real happy. Strange, as crossmember had no rust, and the rest of the rig is pretty much rust free. It was a PIA, but i could reach thru a porthole in the crossmember and add washers and nuts where they were missing. But this was part of my reason for switching to the Labs bumper.
 
I want to utilize the bolt pattern on the 55. I don't need a tow hitch but want a recovery point for lite duty. I figured utilizing existing bolt holes would be efficient.

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Is that missing the angled supports from bumper to frame? It would be riveted into the outboard hole?
 

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