Na$ty a$$ oil leak (1 Viewer)

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cruiserdan

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Well, headded up to Los Alamos for the last match of the year early this morning and I got about 30 miles up the freeway when I smelled burning oil :eek: . I pulled off at the closest exit to take a look and dang, there was oil everywhere. :eek: It was about a quart low and dripping profusly from the RH side of the engine. I put a quart in and pointed it home and off I limped. It took 2 quarts to get it home and I have a BIG MESS on my hands.
OIL$1.JPG
 
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Here's another nasty look
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Ouch. Any early prognosis?
 
I appears to be coming from the lower RH corner of the timing cover, next to the A/C compressor. Which means the timing cover has to come off along with the oil pan and cylinder head and.............. :whoops: :'( :'( :'(

I'm hosed BIG TIME
 
Hey Dan,

I am so sorry !!!!!

Mike
 
very nasty

and I think I have problems
 
This does not look good for Homestarrunner...

Why are the springs and shocks spotless Dan?
 
Hey Dan,
It *looks* like maybe the timing chaincover like you said.

I had mine replaced by my Toyota dealer along with the front main.

cost me $300 labor $16 parts.

15188-66020 gasket oil pump
90311-52022 seal, type T oil

for my 93

Mine wasn't THAT bad, but it was leaking a good bit of oil. No problems since! :D

That sux.... I feel for ya!
 
I doubt that they R & R'd the timing cover it's self for only 300 bucks. I can believe a crank seal would cost that. I gotta go a whole bunch deeper than that. :'(

Any of you guys pulled a 1FZ timing cover without removing the cylinder head? I know the oil pan has to come off because of the studs that come out of the timing cover and the valve cover will need to come off to get at the bolts that go into the top of the timing cover.

I'm debating on just yanking the damn thing and putting it on a stand so I can work on it.
 
If you can get the t-cover off without the head, let me know as I have a super slow seapage from somewhere over the oil pump.
 
That sucks Dan. How many miles on that toilet anyway? If the miles are up there and it was me I think I'd pull it and go through it completely. But that would be extensive time wise but good in the long run. Wasn't it Cruiserman who just did his motor. If there are any more CruiserXXX people out there I'd change my name, these things run in threes :eek:.


Best of luck
 
Dan, You're putting the integrity of your head gasket at risk if you pull the cover w/o removing the head. The outcome is the same if the gasket fails, since you'll have to replace it if you pull the head.

You have to remove the 2 long bolts at the front of the head, but I think you can remove the timing cover w/o removing the head.

I would think twice about it given the supercharger. Tough call. I wouldn't pull the motor in either case.
 
Rick,

It's 115k and change.

C-man,

What about getting the oil pump gear lined back up with the head still on? I fear that it is probably best to pull the head. The biggy in my case is all the extra plumbing. I have had a minor oil seepage at the rear pan arch for some time now and I think it is the seal retainer and not the rear main so pulling the pan would fix two things. But, if it is the seal the engine and trans would need to be split. You left the trans in the vehicle, right?
 
Dan, sorry to hear about this expensive problem. What do you think caused it? Supercharger? putting more stress on the engine? Hope you can get it fixed without to much expense.
 
Dan,

Please don't be insulted if this question is too basic. But, did you completely clean the area - I mean completely - and run the motor and actually see where the oil is escaping?

Learn from my mistakes.

Ed
 
I can watch it come out. It is coming out at the lower RH corner of the timing cover, right where there is a screwdriver slot milled in the cover to allow a screwdriver blade to be inserted to pry the cover off. It is between the two lowermost bolts, about even with the lower middle of the A/C compressor. It starts to come out about 10-15 seconds after engine start-up and is a steady flow. It pushed out about 2 quarts in around 30 miles of driving to get it home.
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C-Dan,
That stinks. I have to agree with Rick and others. This could be the right opportunity to just pull the engine and make it NEW!
It will suck with time/labor involved..but, you will be kicking a$$ w/a new engine.

Also, you could just buy about 3 cases of oil and drive it up to Mr. Slee...and get a "complete makeover".

Good luck.
Joe M.
 
I think you could probably line up the oil pump gears w/o a problem, but I would be more concerned about the HG. Best to pull the head, but it sure adds a lot of time to the job. You can pay me now, or you can pay me later . . .

I left the tranny in place. Best of luck to you. I'll help you any way I can.
 
Dan, I was really bummed when I read your first post, so I went out to look under my hood. The reason I then asked the question was that in the picture, the top of the AC compressor bracket looks wet and that's a ways from the timing cover.

So armed with a blowup of your photo and the diagram (and a flashlight) I took another look. Now I'm doubly bummed. My screwdriver slot has oil around it.

I get down to a quart low just about the time for an oil change. So that's a quart in 3000 miles. You must have a mini-geyser and I apparantly have one brewing.

I had no idea that much oil could be lost from a timing cover gasket leak. I wonder if what happened to yours is in the future for the rest of us.

Ed
 
Dan with only 115k on it I'd just go after the leak. I would use the FSM as a reference only and stay focussed on the T-cover and only remove what you absolutely have to and only after you have confirmed it neccessary. I've owned a lot of toyotas over the years and almost always have been able to save some tear down as I wasn't doing the whole rebuild as the manual shows.
 

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