Wayne
Bought by His blood, kept by His power
Dan, I stand corrected...... the job was anything but an easy fix 
Wayne
Wayne
Na$ty a$$ oil leak (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter cruiserdan
- Start date
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CDan
If you had to do it again without a hoist, what would you do?
Do you think it could be done without a hoist?
I don't think I will do it your was as I have tooo many miles and may as
well rebuild the motor, maybe not.
If you had to do it again without a hoist, what would you do?
Do you think it could be done without a hoist?
I don't think I will do it your was as I have tooo many miles and may as
well rebuild the motor, maybe not.
- Thread starter
- #103
Thanks to all...........
It does, indeed, feel wonderful to have that job behind me.
As far as How much it would cost, The time spent is about what it really takes. The clean-up time on the pans and timing cover alone is amazing. Our shop charges 78 dollars an hour so that makes the labor for the repair $2,106.00. I can asure you that I spent every minute of that 27 hours working on the vehicle. There was no BS time. The wulf will back me up as I pretty much ignored him during his visit and kept on working.
I have not yet added up the parts and fluids cost but I'm guessing about 4 hundred bucks. Not bad considering how far apart the engine was. Being able to leave the head in place saved a ton of time and a bunch of parts expense. A new head gasket alone is well over a hundred bucks and I imagine removing the head would have easily added another 10 to 15 hours.
Kurt, as far as flat-backing it, I would say that you will easily double the ammount of time spent. I can't imagine laying on your back with a torch in your hands trying to heat up the oil pans to get them off.
In addittion, lifting the engine to install the pans was a neat trick. My fellow Garand collector has a hand made engine support bar that spans the engine compartment and has a sliding hook assembly. The hook was inserted into the front engine lifting eye and the engine was cranked up off of the mounts about 2 inches. Without this tool, re-installing the number 1 oil pan would be next to impossible.
I think that in a flat backing setting it would be easier to remove the engine.
D-
It does, indeed, feel wonderful to have that job behind me.
As far as How much it would cost, The time spent is about what it really takes. The clean-up time on the pans and timing cover alone is amazing. Our shop charges 78 dollars an hour so that makes the labor for the repair $2,106.00. I can asure you that I spent every minute of that 27 hours working on the vehicle. There was no BS time. The wulf will back me up as I pretty much ignored him during his visit and kept on working.
I have not yet added up the parts and fluids cost but I'm guessing about 4 hundred bucks. Not bad considering how far apart the engine was. Being able to leave the head in place saved a ton of time and a bunch of parts expense. A new head gasket alone is well over a hundred bucks and I imagine removing the head would have easily added another 10 to 15 hours.
Kurt, as far as flat-backing it, I would say that you will easily double the ammount of time spent. I can't imagine laying on your back with a torch in your hands trying to heat up the oil pans to get them off.
In addittion, lifting the engine to install the pans was a neat trick. My fellow Garand collector has a hand made engine support bar that spans the engine compartment and has a sliding hook assembly. The hook was inserted into the front engine lifting eye and the engine was cranked up off of the mounts about 2 inches. Without this tool, re-installing the number 1 oil pan would be next to impossible.
I think that in a flat backing setting it would be easier to remove the engine.
D-
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=8517;start=msg77538#msg77538 date=1071793089]
Thanks to all...........
In addittion, lifting the engine to install the pans was a neat trick. My fellow Garand collector has a hand made engine support bar that spans the engine compartment and has a sliding hook assembly. The hook was inserted into the front engine lifting eye and the engine was cranked up off of the mounts about 2 inches. Without this tool, re-installing the number 1 oil pan would be next to impossible.
[/quote]
That lifing hook is a neccessity for front driver trans work.
Thanks to all...........
In addittion, lifting the engine to install the pans was a neat trick. My fellow Garand collector has a hand made engine support bar that spans the engine compartment and has a sliding hook assembly. The hook was inserted into the front engine lifting eye and the engine was cranked up off of the mounts about 2 inches. Without this tool, re-installing the number 1 oil pan would be next to impossible.
[/quote]
That lifing hook is a neccessity for front driver trans work.
Does this mean I can order my goodies now? 
Congrats Dan, glad you got the beast back to wellsville.
Congrats Dan, glad you got the beast back to wellsville.
Dan,
I am also running 15w40. Do you think the heavier weight had anything to do with your problem and did you refill with 15w40?
I am also running 15w40. Do you think the heavier weight had anything to do with your problem and did you refill with 15w40?
- Thread starter
- #107
I seriously doubt that 15w40 oil had anything to do with it. in the OZ books weights up to 20w50 are listed, depending on conditions.
I went back in with 10w30 as it has cooled off now.
D-
I went back in with 10w30 as it has cooled off now.
D-
First, congrats Cdan.
What the frick is a Garand collector? ???
Were the 3
placed on your knees as payment for the lift usage? 
Seriously, job well done.
What the frick is a Garand collector? ???
Were the 3
Seriously, job well done.
By the way, they need you back at work soon.
Something about needing help in shipping.
Something about needing help in shipping.
- Thread starter
- #110
[quote author=Junk link=board=2;threadid=8517;start=msg78323#msg78323 date=1071935784]
What the frick is a Garand collector? ???
[/quote]
Um, well, A Garand collector is a collector of Garands.
Or, US Rifle, caliber .30 M1
What the frick is a Garand collector? ???
[/quote]
Um, well, A Garand collector is a collector of Garands.
Or, US Rifle, caliber .30 M1
semlin
curmudgeon
All joking about the 15-40 aside, Dan any ideas now why this happened with your mileage? Could it be related to the blower?
- Thread starter
- #112
Simon.
I think it just plain let go. I could not see any problem with the block or the plug. The plug had regular marks all around the circumfrence. There was no evidence of any sealer having been applied and I believe Toyota installs the plugs dry. It may have not been fully seated when the engine was assembled. It did not look like it was installed cocked. I did notice that the hole had a prominent "shoulder" about 1/4 inch in from the surface of the hole. That appeared to be a "stop" to prevent the plug from being seated too deeply and potentially blocking the passage from the LH side of the block. As that is the only one I have ever seen apart I don't know if that ridge is normal, but it looked like it.
The 5/8 uversize plug drove in very firmly and the loctite sleeve retainer should hold it for ever.
The blower could not have been a factor as it has nothing to do with oil pressure.
I can imagine that a seriously over-heated engine could possibly have this type of problem but I would also think that other bits would let go before this would. Since this motor has not been over-heated that would not be a factor.
Bottom line is Since this is the first one that a whole bunch of people have heard of, I think it's a fluke.
And I have no frickin' idea why it let go. ???
D-
I think it just plain let go. I could not see any problem with the block or the plug. The plug had regular marks all around the circumfrence. There was no evidence of any sealer having been applied and I believe Toyota installs the plugs dry. It may have not been fully seated when the engine was assembled. It did not look like it was installed cocked. I did notice that the hole had a prominent "shoulder" about 1/4 inch in from the surface of the hole. That appeared to be a "stop" to prevent the plug from being seated too deeply and potentially blocking the passage from the LH side of the block. As that is the only one I have ever seen apart I don't know if that ridge is normal, but it looked like it.
The 5/8 uversize plug drove in very firmly and the loctite sleeve retainer should hold it for ever.
The blower could not have been a factor as it has nothing to do with oil pressure.
I can imagine that a seriously over-heated engine could possibly have this type of problem but I would also think that other bits would let go before this would. Since this motor has not been over-heated that would not be a factor.
Bottom line is Since this is the first one that a whole bunch of people have heard of, I think it's a fluke.
And I have no frickin' idea why it let go. ???
D-
My lower galley plug just let go! '93 FZJ-80 with 80K mi.
I'm not sure, but I think it stared out small--I started to smell burning oil a few weeks before--then one day after revving it up to pass on the highway, a gush began from the bottom of the timing cover. Luckily I noticed the blowing smoke in my rear view mirror. By the time I got if off the highway and into a filling station, ~2mi, a torrent was coming from the under the timing chain cover and I was a quart + low.
Tune Tech in town (Boise) figured out that they could fix it without pulling the head (with some help from an "expert" in California) as Dan did. Ran about $1500.
My oil pressure guage reads high, near the top of the chart at high RPMS, so I'm wondering if this contributed. And if so, what my oil pressure problem might be?
I'm not sure, but I think it stared out small--I started to smell burning oil a few weeks before--then one day after revving it up to pass on the highway, a gush began from the bottom of the timing cover. Luckily I noticed the blowing smoke in my rear view mirror. By the time I got if off the highway and into a filling station, ~2mi, a torrent was coming from the under the timing chain cover and I was a quart + low.
Tune Tech in town (Boise) figured out that they could fix it without pulling the head (with some help from an "expert" in California) as Dan did. Ran about $1500.
My oil pressure guage reads high, near the top of the chart at high RPMS, so I'm wondering if this contributed. And if so, what my oil pressure problem might be?
Would loosing that plug pressurize the cover and come out the hole I am pointing at??
Good info on this thread.
Good info on this thread.
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Pictures off company account, gotta get a star for my personal account.
Rob
Rob
powderpig
SILVER Star
No, oil from the oil pump would. Need to remove the crank pulley and then remove the oil pump cover. replace the O ring and 7 little screws. I am sure there is a write up or to look at. Oil Pump O ring, Oil pump leaks ETC
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Did the seal and o ring...........its coming out of that little cast hole.
powderpig
SILVER Star
With a mirror can you see down the hole to see if it is leaking at the back of the timing cover or where the oil cover mates to the timing cover? Was this way you change out the oil seal before? Do you have the idler bearing that goes there? ( I would guess not due to the non factory belts)
That little cast hole allows for the idler bearing to ride on the bolt that supports it. Anyhow the seal maybe buggered in that area. You can try to put a bolt with a washer in there, it may stop the leak.
Later, Robbie
That little cast hole allows for the idler bearing to ride on the bolt that supports it. Anyhow the seal maybe buggered in that area. You can try to put a bolt with a washer in there, it may stop the leak.
Later, Robbie
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I tried with the mirror, no luck.
Hey Robbie, I was thinking about drilling the whole with a 90 degree drill and then threading it to accept a brass plug with thread sealant?
Rob
Hey Robbie, I was thinking about drilling the whole with a 90 degree drill and then threading it to accept a brass plug with thread sealant?
Rob
