Mystery squeak solved! Cargo window loose. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 12, 2014
Threads
7
Messages
214
Location
Inland Empire, CA
Website
www.ultimateyota.com
I had this mystery squeak (squeek for those of us who can't spell) for quite some time now, I guess since I bought it in April, 2016. I knew what it was but not how to fix it. It finally started squeaking beyond just shutting the door and started squeaking on my commute and was driving me nuts so I took at look at the FSM and figured out it was likely a loose nut, but not the one behind the wheel. I only found one hit on this forum for it, so hopefully this helps someone else.

The nuts securing the hinge of the rear quarter window had come loose on the driver side. To access the nuts, you must remove the third row seat, rear mat set plate, roof headliner rear trim, quarter trim panel and upper roof side inner garnish, as well as both seat belts. I am using the FSM terms here.

Video of my squeak:


Quarter trim panel removed:


To remove:
Use #2 Phillips screw driver, remove (5) screws from rear mat set plate and pull up to remove, also remove cargo net upper mount by twisting clockwise 1/4 turn and pulling toward you, then remove screw. With 14mm socket, remove 2nd and 3rd row bottom seat belt bolts. Remove door to jack cubby, remove black push fastener (it is ribbed and a friction fit, no fancy mechanism) from jack cubby and from bottom corner, under rear mat set plate. Using T15 Torx bit (an appropriate flat blade screw driver might work in a pinch), remove trim on forward 3rd row outboard mount. Pull carpet up towards centerline of vehicle, out of the slot in the panel. Pull up sill plate on rear door. Then gently pull the panel away from the body.

Upper quarter interior panel removed:


To remove:
Use care and a sharp object to pop covers off of 3rd and 2nd row upper seat belt pivot, 14mm socket to remove the bolts. Remove roof headliner rear trim by gently pulling down, there are 5 clips holding it in, closer to the rear of the part. Remove black plastic push fastener at top corner. Remove overhead handle with #2 Phillips. Panel pulls away with a number of clips into the body and a fancy metal clip/bracket that interfaces with the side curtain air bag on the C-Pillar. That was a bit tricky.

Once everything is removed, you can now access the two nuts with a deep 10mm socket.

Top nut:


Bottom nut:


Snug them up and they should be good to go, no torque spec on these. My top nut was very loose and the bottom was not tight.

Reassembly is the reverse. It helps to have two people to align the upper trim, although it is not necessary. Seat belt bolt torque is 42Nm or 31lbf for all bolts.

Hopefully this helps someone in their quest to quiet down the beast!
 
Last edited:
Very helpful. Haven't tried this yet but my wife's Hundy has this issue presently. Hers is white as well. 05' model.

I think I know what my weekend will involve.
 
I've had this issue for about a year now and having a 10" subwoofer in the rear doesn't help either. The window will squeak if I go over a large speed bump or play music with the bass on even at a low volume. On my most recent trip to CO last August I had to slightly crack those rear windows every time I went wheeling or else it would sound like a mouse was back there squeaking through a megaphone the entire time. I found this thread a few months ago and bookmarked it, but it's such an involved process to tighten just 2 bolts that I was going to wait until I had Dynamat & did a full interior cleaning this Spring to get around to it so I can do everything at once. I would recommend applying some red Loctite 263 to those bolts once you get to them so that you will never have this issue again. Just wish you didn't have to remove the whole window/fender trim piece to get to them:confused:
 
I'm in the rebuild stage on this.

?: how to reinstall upper cargo panel (driver's side) interface w "fancy metal clip/bracket that interfaces with the side curtain air bag".......

Thanks in advance!
 
I'm in the rebuild stage on this.

?: how to reinstall upper cargo panel (driver's side) interface w "fancy metal clip/bracket that interfaces with the side curtain air bag".......

Thanks in advance!
It's been a while since I did this! I can't remember exactly how I got it back in. I think you can just slide in the tabs into the panel before you start snapping the panel in place.
 
Shout out to seahorse: just finished this repair (in tandem w subwoofer rebuild).

Hardest part was getting the interior finish panels to seat correctly.

heads up: watch plastic panel fastener near subwoofer. If not aligned, will punch hole in it. Luckily I spotted it before certain damage.
 
Just fixed my passenger side yesterday thanks to this thread. It was really loose. Went ahead and tightened up the drivers side a bit as well.

Now to find the source of all the other rattles.
 
I had this mystery squeak (squeek for those of us who can't spell) for quite some time now, I guess since I bought it in April, 2016. I knew what it was but not how to fix it. It finally started squeaking beyond just shutting the door and started squeaking on my commute and was driving me nuts so I took at look at the FSM and figured out it was likely a loose nut, but not the one behind the wheel. I only found one hit on this forum for it, so hopefully this helps someone else.

The nuts securing the hinge of the rear quarter window had come loose on the driver side. To access the nuts, you must remove the third row seat, rear mat set plate, roof headliner rear trim, quarter trim panel and upper roof side inner garnish, as well as both seat belts. I am using the FSM terms here.

Video of my squeak:


Quarter trim panel removed:


To remove:
Use #2 Phillips screw driver, remove (5) screws from rear mat set plate and pull up to remove, also remove cargo net upper mount by twisting clockwise 1/4 turn and pulling toward you, then remove screw. With 14mm socket, remove 2nd and 3rd row bottom seat belt bolts. Remove door to jack cubby, remove black push fastener (it is ribbed and a friction fit, no fancy mechanism) from jack cubby and from bottom corner, under rear mat set plate. Using T15 Torx bit (an appropriate flat blade screw driver might work in a pinch), remove trim on forward 3rd row outboard mount. Pull carpet up towards centerline of vehicle, out of the slot in the panel. Pull up sill plate on rear door. Then gently pull the panel away from the body.

Upper quarter interior panel removed:


To remove:
Use care and a sharp object to pop covers off of 3rd and 2nd row upper seat belt pivot, 14mm socket to remove the bolts. Remove roof headliner rear trim by gently pulling down, there are 5 clips holding it in, closer to the rear of the part. Remove black plastic push fastener at top corner. Remove overhead handle with #2 Phillips. Panel pulls away with a number of clips into the body and a fancy metal clip/bracket that interfaces with the side curtain air bag on the C-Pillar. That was a bit tricky.

Once everything is removed, you can now access the two nuts with a deep 10mm socket.

Top nut:


Bottom nut:


Snug them up and they should be good to go, no torque spec on these. My top nut was very loose and the bottom was not tight.

Reassembly is the reverse. It helps to have two people to align the upper trim, although it is not necessary. Seat belt bolt torque is 42Nm or 31lbf for all bolts.

Hopefully this helps someone in their quest to quiet down the beast!
 
Great advice and it worked! Thanks.
BTW, I didn't have to remove the bottom 3rd row seat belt bolt. It was cranked tight so I just worked around it.
 
I had this mystery squeak (squeek for those of us who can't spell) for quite some time now, I guess since I bought it in April, 2016. I knew what it was but not how to fix it. It finally started squeaking beyond just shutting the door and started squeaking on my commute and was driving me nuts so I took at look at the FSM and figured out it was likely a loose nut, but not the one behind the wheel. I only found one hit on this forum for it, so hopefully this helps someone else.

The nuts securing the hinge of the rear quarter window had come loose on the driver side. To access the nuts, you must remove the third row seat, rear mat set plate, roof headliner rear trim, quarter trim panel and upper roof side inner garnish, as well as both seat belts. I am using the FSM terms here.

Video of my squeak:


Quarter trim panel removed:


To remove:
Use #2 Phillips screw driver, remove (5) screws from rear mat set plate and pull up to remove, also remove cargo net upper mount by twisting clockwise 1/4 turn and pulling toward you, then remove screw. With 14mm socket, remove 2nd and 3rd row bottom seat belt bolts. Remove door to jack cubby, remove black push fastener (it is ribbed and a friction fit, no fancy mechanism) from jack cubby and from bottom corner, under rear mat set plate. Using T15 Torx bit (an appropriate flat blade screw driver might work in a pinch), remove trim on forward 3rd row outboard mount. Pull carpet up towards centerline of vehicle, out of the slot in the panel. Pull up sill plate on rear door. Then gently pull the panel away from the body.

Upper quarter interior panel removed:


To remove:
Use care and a sharp object to pop covers off of 3rd and 2nd row upper seat belt pivot, 14mm socket to remove the bolts. Remove roof headliner rear trim by gently pulling down, there are 5 clips holding it in, closer to the rear of the part. Remove black plastic push fastener at top corner. Remove overhead handle with #2 Phillips. Panel pulls away with a number of clips into the body and a fancy metal clip/bracket that interfaces with the side curtain air bag on the C-Pillar. That was a bit tricky.

Once everything is removed, you can now access the two nuts with a deep 10mm socket.

Top nut:


Bottom nut:


Snug them up and they should be good to go, no torque spec on these. My top nut was very loose and the bottom was not tight.

Reassembly is the reverse. It helps to have two people to align the upper trim, although it is not necessary. Seat belt bolt torque is 42Nm or 31lbf for all bolts.

Hopefully this helps someone in their quest to quiet down the beast!
 
Does anyone know how to completely remove the third row cargo vent window on a 100 series?

I can't seem to find anything on here about it
 

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