Mystery Double Cardon Drive Lines 80 Series (1 Viewer)

[danmcph]

I bought an 80 series that has 4" of lift on it and as part of baselining I wanted to put new spider joints in it (U-Joints). I took it off and saw it is a double cardon arrangement. I texted the builder and the reply I got was this"

The driveshafts are hybrids I had built. I think the rear is partially from an 80 and the CV is from a 3rd Gen 4 Runner. Seems like the Front CV is from a 1st Gen Taco and the rest is 80 Series. They are all factory Toyota parts. If you are going to replace the CV's you just as well buy replacement shafts from Landtank or equivalent. Toyota CVs are very expensive."

Both the front and rear drivelines have double cardon (CV Joint) arrangements.
Here are the questions:

1-I tried looking up the cost online for the CV joints for the two vehicles he mentioned and I all could find was the cost of a complete driveline. How much is the replacement CV bearing?
2-Would I be better off just running the driveline I have until there is an issue then buying a new Landtank when there is an issue? The driveline is currently fine, I just wanted to do it as part of baselining it.
3-If I do rebuild the drivelines I have, how do I confirm what it was built out of so I can get the correct replacement parts?

 

[cruzinfj1]

pics?

Better yet, get the "builders" info and contact him directly and see what they have to say. 4" you shouldnt need anything special.

 

[NeverFinis]

It's just u-joints...all the way down.

 

[danmcph]

I know the yoke (or whatever it is called on the pinion end) is going to be 80 series LC. How do I confirm the u-joint part number before ordering the replacements? Is there a measurement or something I could take so I order the correct u-joints for the CV? I know there is a bearing inside of the CV joint itself between the two u-joints. How do I figure out what part that is?

I texted the original owner to see if he knew who built the drivelines. Hopefully he recalls who did it.

 

[ajax1]

You can only change out the single ujoint at the diff end not the cv.

 

[ajordan1975]

It's cheaper to replace the "CV" than it is to replace the ujoints in the CV in a lot of cases.
If nothing is wrong leave it be. If you have some zerks on the ujoints, grease them and send it.

 

[landtank]

If they are indeed Toyota joints, I have everything needed to rebuild them. The kits aren't on my site yet as I'm waiting on tools to offer that makes installing easier.

the kits include:

Gen II brass center ball
factory ball seal
block off pin if inside clip design
2 u-joints

be aware, rebuilding these is a challenge. The factory Koyo u-joints on the inner clip style have a steel inner cup that protects the grease seal. This makes things very tight on disassembly and my U-Joints share that same design, so assembling is just as frustrating.

The outside clip style is a little easier.

There are 2 pin yoke diameters, 12mm and 13mm. I only have the 13mm in stock but can get the 12mm if needed. They are most likely 13mm.

If you are going to do this, change out the center ball. Once the center ball is removed you'll want to pump grease through the zirk to make sure you have good flow to that area.

With pics I can better advise you on the difficulty

 

[inkpot]

I would just grease it and run it. If your $$ is really burning a hole in your pocket, take them to a good Drive Shaft Shop. They will know what the right parts are.

 

[danmcph]

I spoke to the builder. I will grease it and run it. when it fails I will buy some from Landtank.