My wife says go bigger! (1 Viewer)

mudgudgeon

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Dec 17, 2007
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Sydney, Australia
We are on forrest trails and have easy to medium obstacles

Seriously?

33"s and zero lift will eat this alive!

I currently run 305/70r16 (33"s) and 27 year old saggy OEM springs.
This eats anything in the easy to medium forest road range with a bit of driver skill.

I've previously run 2" lift + 35"s, and 4" lift + 35"s.
2" lifted cruiser went absolutely everywhere my 4" lifted 80 did, and then some too.

I think 3"lift is about the sweet spot with an 80. More than that you risk driveline vibrations, and start adding lots of modified parts to fix suspension geometry etc.


Short video of my stock 80, 27yr old springs, 33" ATs, total novice at the wheel.


My boy's first bit of wheeling, on a short trail that several local internet experts have told me is impassable without front and rear lockers.

Driving down I was thinking, "hmmmm, could be interesting for him coming back up". It's steeper than video suggests, and was wet. And step ups were off camber in a few spots, this is what steered it hard left as the rear slid a little coming up ledges.

IMG_4604.jpg


Sleeper 105 series. (Same live axle front suspension as 80 series)

2" lift, 35s, fully locked, modified shock mounts to allow longer shocks and more down travel without bumpstops limiting up travel.

Need a small tug with a winch on this one. Rear control arm brackets were catching on the ledge.

For the record, my buddy in a heavily built 75 series on full coils 6" lift, long arm 4 linked suspension, and 37s also winched up this

IMG_4587.jpg
 

Bludozer

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Earlysville, Va
For the overwhelming majority of us on this forum, 37s are an aesthetic choice that we try to justify with functional need. I get it, they look incredibly cool. The reality is though, that 35s will make quick work of 98% of the available trails in the US...33s will work for probably 90% of them. Unless you are regularly doing trails like dusy/con/fordyce you are wasting your time with anything over 35s.

I think the standard should be if you are willing to log onto mud and post "I am going with 37s because it is going to look f*cking sweet parked outside of Whole Foods!" then you should be given the go-ahead to put them on. If not, I'm sorry buddy, but 35s is the max allowable tire size for you.
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
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843
Location
Clovis, CA
For the overwhelming majority of us on this forum, 37s are an aesthetic choice that we try to justify with functional need. I get it, they look incredibly cool. The reality is though, that 35s will make quick work of 98% of the available trails in the US...33s will work for probably 90% of them. Unless you are regularly doing trails like dusy/con/fordyce you are wasting your time with anything over 35s.

I think the standard should be if you are willing to log onto mud and post "I am going with 37s because it is going to look f*cking sweet parked outside of Whole Foods!" then you should be given the go-ahead to put them on. If not, I'm sorry buddy, but 35s is the max allowable tire size for you.
Whole Foods? Holy sh....

I can only dream. I only drive my Cruiser to Foods Co. and free WiFi at Dunkin Donuts. Hence, I’m a 35” guy. I think 37” would get me carjacked by some Jeep guys in my hood, or it will end up on blocks by the morning.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2006
Messages
5,606
Location
calgary
35's still look and function great.

View attachment 2559079

They do!!.... But they are a “gateway tire”... Next thing you know, 37’s look even better and 35’s look small.. If you DD your rig to work and back, 35’s make a lot of sense. I seemed to have a work truck, or bike/bus to the office more these days as parking costs are silly and cycling is decent exercise and the wife commutes mostly by bike as well and has a stock-ish 4runner so my 35” open countries turned into 37” mud grapplers, and then to 38” geolanders. Now there is 42” iroks in the basement and heavier axles in the garage.

Frickin gateway tires, careful.
 

BigSh00ts

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Dec 19, 2018
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South Florida
So I'm planning out my lift setup and was thinking 35" tires with the OME 3.5-4" lift provided by cruiser outfitters. My wife says it looks dinky. Now, thats like your wife saying there's not enough HP in your car. Pretty awesome. But, I'm also thinking about the impacts of going bigger. Both $ and headache of getting it right.

Do 37" tires fit with this lift? And by fit, I mean look good and perform well off-road. We are on forrest trails and have easy to medium obstacles.

If I need to go up around 5", is there much extra work to do compared to a 4" lift?
the thing about tire size is it's not a function of lift (at least not performance wise). If you want to put around town, higher lift will get you bigger tires, but that's not going to do anything to make a bigger tire stuff itself inside your wheel well. Also 37s (from what i understand) require re-gear.
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2015
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Bend, OR
1.75" lift with MAF control arm drop brackets and 285/75/16's = plenty capable for forest service roads and non hardcore off-road situations with no vibrations. Not as cool looking as 37's but way more realistic for most folks.

Recently installed this setup (~1000miles ago) and really enjoying it. I'll add more to the Dobinson's 1.75" lift thread.

1611174959062.png
 

flintknapper

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May 22, 2004
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Deep East Texas
1.75" lift with MAF control arm drop brackets and 285/75/16's = plenty capable for forest service roads and non hardcore off-road situations with no vibrations. Not as cool looking as 37's but way more realistic for most folks.

Recently installed this setup (~1000miles ago) and really enjoying it. I'll add more to the Dobinson's 1.75" lift thread.

View attachment 2559503


Yep, perfect IMO.
 

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