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So just to clarify.Finally time to wrap this up.
Bora 3/8” (9.52mm) spacers arrived last week and they weren’t what I was expecting.
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My fault for assuming they would have studs like the 3/4” Bora spacers I put on my old Sequoia last year. So I asked and he said 3/4” is as narrow as can be made with studs. Now I know. I’m really not crazy about having so much less thread engagement but I really don’t want to shove the wheels out any further than they already are. I’ve had them installed for a week, a couple road trips and some light off roading. Been carrying around a torque wrench and checking them regularly and everything is ok. Next time I’ve got a front wheel off I’ll pop a cap off and measure the clearance between the wheel and the hub hardware. Maybe they can be shaved down a pinch.
The wheel shop I went with was a big disappointment. I’m happy with the colour match to the bumpers but that’s about it. Long story and I really don’t want to elaborate. Safe to say don’t go to Cascade Wheel in Edmonds.
However from 10+ feet away they do look exactly how I hoped they would. The RW’s are a light forged wheel but they look heavy and chunky with the wide fake beadlock ring on there. Now they look as light as they are and have a much simpler aesthetic. The way they should have come, IMO.
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So just to clarify.
With the 3/8” spacers,the RW runs clear the front.. do you need the your domed caps to complete that or was that just for looks? In other words, with 3/8 spacers can someone use the regular flat centre caps?
Thanks man.
I just picked up a set of RWs yesterday after looking for almost 2 years.
They didn’t sell any RW tundras in Canada so it’s slim pickins.
I only know of 1 anywhere near me and he won’t sell them ..
I just bought a new set of 285/75r16s to use on the stock LX wheels too.
oh well , can never have too many options..
do the RW rims affect track width? Some people have mentioned handling and alignment issues but I’m assuming that’s with 1.5+ spacers... I’ve never been a fan of spacers (front spacers are actually illegal in Ontario) unless factory on a Dually...
You give any thought of installing longer studs in order to get full thread engagement?
Sounds good.RW's are +50mm offset, on their own they'll push your wheel out 10mm. Add the mandatory minimum 3/8" (10mm) spacer to the front and your effective offset is +40mm. Rear wheels bolt straight up. My 285/70's fit absolutely flush with the outside of the fender, I love the subtle look and it keeps the tires from throwing swarf all over the body. I have zero issues with handling, alignment or rubbing. I have seen that the commonly used 1.25" spacers (+18mm total offset) with the same size tires will have minor rubbing issues.
From my research here longer front studs are not available. The amount of thread engagement I currently have isn't confidence inspiring but I have been checking my lug torque regularly and they have remained perfect. With my next tire rotation I'll measure clearance and see if shaving the spacers down a hair is possible (although I doubt it will be).
Sounds good.
I’m going to look into longer studs.
The thread size is the same as many ford and chev 3/3-1tons so I’m hopeful once I go through a parts bin I may find something that could work., fingers crossed.
Did you put the spacers on the rear for equality sake or no?
If front spacers are illegal where you live you're not going me to able to run RW's. Spacers are need to avoid having to machine the center bore of the wheel. If you machine the center to fit without a spacer, you won't be able to run the center caps.Thanks man.
I just picked up a set of RWs yesterday after looking for almost 2 years.
They didn’t sell any RW tundras in Canada so it’s slim pickins.
I only know of 1 anywhere near me and he won’t sell them ..
I just bought a new set of 285/75r16s to use on the stock LX wheels too.
oh well , can never have too many options..
do the RW rims affect track width? Some people have mentioned handling and alignment issues but I’m assuming that’s with 1.5+ spacers... I’ve never been a fan of spacers (front spacers are actually illegal in Ontario) unless factory on a Dually...
You give any thought of installing longer studs in order to get full thread engagement?
Will do.If you locate studs that work please post your findings.
No spacers on the rear, there is less stud protruding from the rear hubs so 3/8" spacers would definitely be a bad idea back there.
Yes I’ve read that about the rims needing machining to fit properly. I don’t want to mess up the wheels given their rarity so a 2/8 spacer is gonna have to be the route I go.If front spacers are illegal where you live you're not going me to able to run RW's. Spacers are need to avoid having to machine the center bore of the wheel. If you machine the center to fit without a spacer, you won't be able to run the center caps.
Yes I’ve read that about the rims needing machining to fit properly. I don’t want to mess up the wheels given their rarity so a 2/8 spacer is gonna have to be the route I go.
Unless I just keep the skinny industrial rims im
Running for my winters which I’m taking a liking too... lousy picture but all I had!
Apparently it’s to do with vehicle mechanical inspections (when transferring ownership or moving provinces or importing from the states)
Once you’ve got it licensed- unless there’s a catastrophic failure or loss of a wheel/ nobody would notice or care.
The Jeep dealer here is selling brand new lifted wranglers and gladiators with wheel spacers on them in the show room so it can’t be that bad!
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This thing is bone stock.That being the case, slap some spacers on and roll! Love the steelie look too though, especially on a built rig.
GTV, thanks for the clear documentation. I have 5 of these on a pallet, waiting for .25" spacers from Bora to arrive next week. This thread and the other about 3/8 vs. 1/4 spacers have been clutch in helping me figure out what I need to get them spinning!Since I’m waiting for the country to open up so I can pick up my new to me LC (more on that later) I’ve decided to get these wheels where I want them to be.
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I got super lucky and found this complete set locally on CL from an older gent with a RW Tundra for $600. Got all the hardware as well but I will skip the locking lugs and get 4 more splined lugs and a second socket, PTR27-34070
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@tplane2 in San Diego set me up with a spare that a friend of mine picked up for me, $200 + shipping. Still waiting on that shipping though...
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The faux beadlocks aka “bling rings“ aren’t my thing. As a personal rule of thumb I don’t do anything fake and my long history with air cooled VW’s and bicycles has made me a weight weenie. They also trap debris and make it difficult to access the valve stem. With hardware the set of 4 adds nearly 8 pounds of unsprung weight. For my use they serve no purpose therefore they must go.
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Yesterday I had the E rated KO's removed for $26 and I sold them today for $300. I will replace them with take-off C rated KO2's from a Jeep Rubicon (285/70). They are inexpensive and readily available second hand. This will keep the weight down, nearly matching the factory rim/tire combo. Once I have the spare I'll sell all 5 rings and 5 flat center caps. I will use the domed PTR20-34071 caps. Right now I'm looking at the wheel lips trying to figure out the best course of action to get them into presentable condition. They are covered in fine gouges from crap getting jammed in-between the wheel and ring. I'd like to have the holes tig welded shut but the finish on these wheels are still good and I'm not interested in repainting them at this time. Possibly later down the road. I've searched for hardware but as others have previously stated 8x1.00 machine screws to plug the holes are not commonly available and I'm not in the mood to trim 3-4mm off of 60 already very short screws. I considered stainless washers under the screws but 3+mm of washer isn't going to be a hot look either.
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For now I suppose I'll leave the holes open and just have the lips machined flat, hopefully removing the wheel weight outer step as well. I hate seeing wheel weights. I will also have the center bores opened up to fit the front of the 100 without using spacers. If anyone has the precise specs on machining the center bore I would love to see them. I've used spacers before and never had an issue but this time I want it to be a bit more "factory" in appearance and function. Stay tuned!
GTV, thanks for the clear documentation. I have 5 of these on a pallet, waiting for .25" spacers from Bora to arrive next week. This thread and the other about 3/8 vs. 1/4 spacers have been clutch in helping me figure out what I need to get them spinning!
Do you get the wheels mounted in the center of the hub the old fashioned way, by snugging up the lug nuts? There's nothing hub centric on the front, right?
jus' sayin' that 285/75 looks great on the RW