My overdue PM journey. Picture heavy. (1 Viewer)

[mtrdud]

X2. It does sound good.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Having the idler pulley removed contributes to a lot of it as well as the "tune up."

 

[excessive]

I am doing almost the exact same job right now, I am just a week or 2 behind you...

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I put the bonnet back on today. And took the old mountain goat for a couple of mile spin. Throttle response and take off is awesome. I need to do a bit of tweaking to the trans kick down cable to get my shifts firm, where I had them before.

I hit a big hill on the highway next to my house, acceleration was much smoother, and I feel I could much better power. This is not seat of the pants, just much smoother and it drives amazing.

I am assuming the injectors are the main responsiblility to the better throttle response.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Another boring drive update , I went and picked up my daughter at school. It operates with a pick up line where the teachers assist the children getting in parents cars. Anyway, My daughter 7 year old squealed when she saw the car. She flung the door open and said, "THE LAND CRUISER IS FIXED, I AM SO HAPPY." Teachers and parents were looking at me like I was crazy. HA HA.

Anyway, the Temps have been hovering right around 170-183, depending on the load. Driving slowly through town, on the upper end near 180.

I advanced the timing from the base, to around 6.5-7 with my paperclip installed. When I remove the PC, timing is around 9-13. I have read this is normal. I can not detect any pings or hiccups ascending long steep hills, both on the highway and in residential neighborhoods. I am going to go ahead and run 92 OCT in the old Mountain Goat from now on though. I did notice my oil pressure was much lower at stop lights after our long drive with the family.

Note, my wife even noticed how smooth the truck ran, and that is did not need as much power going up steep hills. I am tempted to pay to have the injectors flow tested to see where they were, but money is tight these days. I am sure 90% of my power issues were from the injectors, as from all service records, never appeared to have been changed out.

At any rate, I feel like I am winning and can not stop smiling that I am done with this job and my wife is even happy with the results.

No codes yet. I am assuming I still have not achieved readiness yet. I will check the Ultra Gauge and play with it tomorrow.

to all who contributed and hope this helps out others. Big thanks to BENO and CDAN for the parts I accumulated and finally got around to installing.

 

[OGBeno]

Good work Josh.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

FINALLY, popped my code, as expected. It took a little bit longer than I anticipated, but it was a warm day, and I got P0401. Nothing surprising as there is no flow due to my homemade block off plates.

I will be looking into getting a radio shack resistor and put my soldering skills to work by next weekend. Popped the code going to the range for some pew pew, with the g30 and g43. Nothing can wipe the smile off my face. Stay tuned for resistor install pictures.

She still runs like a top, good ol Mountain Goat!

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I finally got in to Radio Shack last week and picked up the 4.7k resistors for the temp sensors. I will search more when on my regular computer about how people installed the resistor.

Rig is still running like a champ but noticed an occasional clunk when starting. Happens about once a week. Another forum me ever had a similar thread about this issue and found a small chunk out of his flexplate. I will have to investigate more on my actual cause.

If anyone has first hand experience installing the resistor I am all ears until I can search, but with the holiday weekend, likely won't get to it until Monday or Tuesday.

 

[stevezero]

Did the radio shack resistors have a part number on them? I'm going to be doing the same thing on mine.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Ozpall]

Congrats nice job.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I will have to look at the package for the resistors. My CEL has not come back on, however, ERG will not show ready on my ultra gauge. Not sure what the deal is with that. The CEL had tripped twice before, and has not tripped since installing the resistor to the ECU side of where the temp sensor plugs in. I still need to fiddle with that and see what is up with my starter.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

 

[grizzlygibbs]

 

[grizzlygibbs]

oops, meant to post these in a different thread per a request. Oh well

 

[katalytic]

The half moon holes are there to provide clearance for the boring process used during manufacturing. The machine tool that cuts the precision bearing surfaces for the camshafts use the half moon area for access.

Only use the wheel cleaner on stuff that you plan to paint. I tried it on the oil pan and it darkened/stained the metal pretty badly so I ended up painting the oil pan.

When you put the fuel rail back on, it is incredibly easy to smash any one (or more) of the injector o-rings. Be really careful with them and use plenty of whatever lube you are using to make sure you don't smash them.

I just did this, and ran the injectors through RC Engineering (amazing work those guys, was sure they were new injectors. Recovered 3 dripping injectors to full flow, excellent pattern and no drips at $25/injector). To your point, I found using something other than gasoline might work better on the injector o-rings, something more viscous, not sure what, to keep them all slippery. Continually check their rotation in the fuel rail, from original set in, through adding rail screws, and then any bit of rail tightening down--alignment is critical on the injectors/o-rings and rotating the injectors back and forth is the only way I knew if they're set in right. Hand tight and then 90Deg gives about 14ft-lbs torque on the 3 rail screws--which is more than plenty.

 

[96LXtech]

Finished cleaning up the valve cover late this afternoon. I ended up using a couple cans of brake fluid and a can of throttle body cleaner and a brush and pick. I feel confident everything is nice and clean. Then I scrubbed with dawn soap and hot water After that, I scrubbed down with some MEK and sanded down the valve cover, wire wheeled in the hard to reach areas, blew the dust off and did another MEK treatment. let it get good and dry, MEK'd it again, and blew it off with the air.

I used VHT engine enamel primer, 2 coats, and 3 coats VHT engine enamel GM Satin Black. turned out good but I wished I would have taken a little extra care to sand down better. Oh well, just a valve cover, not a work of art. I am going to get some brush on red for the toyota lettering tomorrow, add my 1fz-fe sticker, and throw on a few coats of clear.

Before
View attachment 1194526
Cleaned with Flitz, first sanding, and MEK'd
View attachment 1194527
Primer
View attachment 1194544

After Paint
View attachment 1194528
I was at AutoZone and the only thermal wrap I could find for the harness was this stuff. Hopefully it will do the trick.
View attachment 1194545

Followed up by lathering on the FIPG on the half moons and tapping ever so gently back into place.

View attachment 1196706

I installed the VC in place and despite the problems with I had with the spray paint, I am happy with how it looks installed.
View attachment 1196707 View attachment 1196708

how did you cover the letters to not paint over them?

 

[NorCalFJ100]

how did you cover the letters to not paint over them?

I would paint over them and use some high grit sandpaper to lightly sand over them to show the metal. @grizzlygibbs may have a better way though. His stuff turned out nice!

 

[Marine7]

Next, I started unbolting the upper intake plenum. I am no stranger to this job as I have completed it before. This round things went much smoother. The studs and bolts arranged in order. I forgot there where 8 total fasteners, which is why there are two #1's and two #6's. I took pictures of my extention setup. #6 and #6 inside are the only two that really "need" to access from under the truck. There is just enough wiggle room next to the steering column for #6 nut and stud. For the #6 inside bolt you can run your extension setup right next to the starter to reach. I used one of those wobble extensions near my socket and rotating ratchet that allow just enough wobble to get the bolts/nut studs off. These are all 12 mm socket heads. View attachment 1192503View attachment 1192505View attachment 1192506View attachment 1192507

This shows my extension set attached to #6 inside bolt, running near the starter and blockView attachment 1192508

I know this is an old post, but that’s a GREAT idea! Photos of extension set-up,and parts “outline” page for different jobs. Be cool to do a “outline” page for different pm jobs on the 80. ( no idea what they are called! Looks like the peg boards in some garages with outlines of the tool that’s supposed to hang there...... hence...... outline page! Lol)

 

[grizzlygibbs]

how did you cover the letters to not paint over them?

I did paint over them. Then used sand paper to sand the new paint off after it dried, and then clear coated. It’s all still holding strong. The paint job was not perfect, and I was wanting this thing back up and running for work the following week. All in all the engine compartment still looks nice, and I am happy the high temp clear coat is keeping everything happy.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I would paint over them and use some high grit sandpaper to lightly sand over them to show the metal. @grizzlygibbs may have a better way though. His stuff turned out nice!

that’s exactly the method I used. Used a dreamel with a flap disc then finished with 320 sandpaper.