My overdue PM journey. Picture heavy. (1 Viewer)

[grizzlygibbs]

I started cleaning the valve cover off today. I ended up buying some Flitz Mag chloride remover. So far it seems to be doing a good job cleaning up the exterior of the valve cover. I will take some pictures and post em up. Paint to follow later this afternoon. I am thinking black with red letters, or red with black letters.

 

[sbman]

I did clean up the valve cover a little bit to prep it for paint tomorrow, along with puched out the half moons. Those seem like the silliest thing. Why didn't they juts make the head level?

I will likely get some aluminum wheel cleaner/acid cleaner as the brake fluid did not power away all the grime that was on the outside of the cover. I will take some pictures of how the cover turns out.

I was going to take the fuel rail out today, but decided I would wait until I can get the valve cover back on.

The half moon holes are there to provide clearance for the boring process used during manufacturing. The machine tool that cuts the precision bearing surfaces for the camshafts use the half moon area for access.

Only use the wheel cleaner on stuff that you plan to paint. I tried it on the oil pan and it darkened/stained the metal pretty badly so I ended up painting the oil pan.

When you put the fuel rail back on, it is incredibly easy to smash any one (or more) of the injector o-rings. Be really careful with them and use plenty of whatever lube you are using to make sure you don't smash them.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

It's not an acid based wheel cleaner. It got things real clean, but still left a little residue.

I do have injectors and will be sure to take care when reinstalling, although, I'm not going to take out the injectors until I get the valve cover back on. I have more hoses and gaskets to buy too, as I always get too excited when placing an order when I place my orders and never pay enough attention... Nthanks for putting up with my endless emails @beno.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Finished cleaning up the valve cover late this afternoon. I ended up using a couple cans of brake fluid and a can of throttle body cleaner and a brush and pick. I feel confident everything is nice and clean. Then I scrubbed with dawn soap and hot water After that, I scrubbed down with some MEK and sanded down the valve cover, wire wheeled in the hard to reach areas, blew the dust off and did another MEK treatment. let it get good and dry, MEK'd it again, and blew it off with the air.

I used VHT engine enamel primer, 2 coats, and 3 coats VHT engine enamel GM Satin Black. turned out good but I wished I would have taken a little extra care to sand down better. Oh well, just a valve cover, not a work of art. I am going to get some brush on red for the toyota lettering tomorrow, add my 1fz-fe sticker, and throw on a few coats of clear.

Before

Cleaned with Flitz, first sanding, and MEK'd

Primer

After Paint

I was at AutoZone and the only thermal wrap I could find for the harness was this stuff. Hopefully it will do the trick.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Got the fuel filter off tonight. That inner bolt was a bear. I had just lost my patients the other night. It is nice to be able to step away for a break and to clear my head and start off fresh. The fuel filter is only 4-5 years old but the gunk that came out was nasty, as in unreal nasty. My tank looks fairly clean inside as well besides the little deposits that were on the sock filter. I will get the new one bolted up after the valve cover is done and I get the injectors out, hopefully tomorrow or Thursday.

I have never checked valve clearances but followed the FSM and checked them with an angled feeler guages like these.

If I did the method correctly, all of my valves seem to be in spec. Most all of the intake valves would let a .006" through but would not let a .008" through .010" inches through. The exhaust valves would all accept a .010", but would not accept between a .015"-.020" or thereabouts.

From FSM:
Valve clearance (Cold):
Intake 0.15 − 0.25 mm (0.006 − 0.010 in.)
Exhaust 0.25 − 0.35 mm (0.010 − 0.041 in.)

 

[excessive]

What's your method of working on the top of the engine for a long job like a valve adjustment? do you have a topside creeper?

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I have a three step-stool, tools with long handles and good reach, and lots of leaning over the fender. My back has been sore since starting this job. I should probably stretch and warm up before going out to the garage.

Luckily, I just had to check the valve clearance, and not actually adjust them. If I did it right, they are all within spec and do not require any adjusting shims.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Unfortunately, the painting did not turn out as well as I had hoped. Oh well, this is not a show truck, and I surely will not be polishing the valve cover. I ended up using a VHT primer, followed by VHT GM Flat Black and VHT clear. However, I let the flat black sit overnight as I misplaced my 1FZ-FE sticker at my buddies house. I re-sanded the valve cover and applied a Duplicolor Semi-Gloss Black Enamel with Ceramic. I think it is a better paint, I just did not take as much time to get it looking good. The Gloss Clear really makes the black pop. The paint will not cure until heated to 200 degrees. Resists chemicals and temps up to 500 after cured.

I then sanded down the lettering for a natural look using a flap disk on the Dremel, followed by hand sanding to smooth out with 320. It is the 320 that scuffed the black up. In all honesty, no one will probably notice it too much unless you get close. Some of the sanding I did scuffed the area meant to be glossy and I just was not able to get as good of coverage as my baby was crying, my 7 year old was wanting me to play in the snow, and my wife is pissed that the LC is not done yet and I am worried about how the "engine paint" looks. Overall if I was really unhappy with it, I would do a light sand and repaint but it will suffice for this time.

Got the starter out and will get my EGR block off plates made up this weekend. Then I will work on my Fuel injectors and start putting the old Mountain Goat back together.

Notice the paint looks hazey.

Edited to add paint color.

 

[OGBeno]

11291-66010 looks awesome. A 1FZ-FE should have the correct engine representation.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Thanks Onur, @beno . I actually just finished reading up your Rust Belt Rebuild thread. When you deleted your EGR, did you ditch the VSV for egr or just loop the vacuum hoses? I am also going to delete the charcoal canister.

And thanks for all the parts! The beanie has kept me warm while I am in the dog house.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Made some progress today in between a family reunion, and drinking some #6's with an old friend today. Got the old spark plug seals out and the new seals pressed in. installed new PCV grommet and the PCV valve. Put the new gasket on the VC and put into place on the head.

I found it fairly easy to remove the old tube seals with the help of a small prybar and a pick. I first broke away the inner sealing surface, and then pryed the outer sealing surface away from the VC.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Followed up by lathering on the FIPG on the half moons and tapping ever so gently back into place.

I installed the VC in place and despite the problems with I had with the spray paint, I am happy with how it looks installed.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

With the VC in place, I moved onto removing the starter. No pics on this one as it has been documented well, and my phone was charging.

I removed the PHH hardline pipe. My Samco Sport PHH seemed to hold up well, but it is being replaced with Gates Green Stripe bypass. I will take pictures of my Samco PHH in the morning as I was covered in Toyota Red. That stuff tastes wonderful.

With the PHH bypass tube and starter out of the way, I was able to get to the EGR pipe bolts and get them both broke loose. I AM NOW FULLY COMMITTED WITH THE EGR DELETE. The upper bolt is harder to reach with the Fuel rail in place and I have T-Rex arms so it was hard to reach from the ground.

I also removed the fuel rail and the injectors. All of the snaps broke, but only on the brown connectors. DAMMIT. I was slow, methodical, and very very careful trying to remove those. Eff ME!

The fuel injector o-rings looked to be in bad shape.

 

[Dubbinchris]

Nice work so far.

I feel like much of this is in my future come spring time.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Thanks, I have had some hiccups but overall it has been pretty straight forward and easy. It is the re-assembly that will likely kill me

 

[PZLCruiser]

Nice work, injectors have been on my mind for a few months. You going to send them out for cleaning?


Sent from my iPad

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Nice work, injectors have been on my mind for a few months. You going to send them out for cleaning?


Sent from my iPad

I have 6 new in box.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Accomplished little today. I attempted to get the old heat tape off the dreaded engine harness near where the EGR pipe (used) to be.
It was not coming off and i did not want to try to cut it off for fear of nicking a wire or three. So i just wrapped over the top of it with my new heat tape.

Not sure how good this stuff is, but I did not want to spend 60 bucks for the DEI tape. This stuff seemed just as good and comes with a high heat rating. No more EGR anyway so it should do the trick.

Did I mention there is no longer an EGR pipe...

 

[ZA80]

That EGR pipe could work well for an turbo oil return line.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Got the wire harness wrapped and also applied the heat tape to the AC line running near the exhaust.

Here is what my Samco PHH looks like after 5 or so years of use... Can see some swelling in the middle. My rig has never overheated. I imagine it looks like crap due to the pipe getting moved around when first installing it and being installed too far on the head outlet pipe? It never leaked though... I am going to bypass the pipe with a single piece of gates.

Small crack/nick in the hose. Does not go through. This is not fresh. Stress?

This was a straight cut... Pushed too far onto the head pipe? Weird for sure, but glad I am replacing it.