My observation for doing quick phh (1 Viewer)

[97LC80]

Hi folks. Well, the day has come. On my 97, one of the metal lines for the rear heater (located on the PS firewall) has failed at that point. So I am planning to bypass the rear heater and abandon it in place (along with the supply and return lines), and tackle the PHH at the same time. Through the searching I have done, I have found great write-ups as to what others have done concerning both of these projects. I am trying to decide whether to go the full PHH bypass route (which I'm leaning toward), or replace the PHH hose that is there now. I will use Gates green stripe in either case. I would greatly appreciate some further guidance and have the following questions.

Is the bypass method a good long term solution? It seems easier, and eliminates possible pipe failure. Are there any downsides ?

What is the best way to run hose for the bypass configuration ? How much hose would I need ?

Thanks in advance,

97LC80

 

[rolliges]

In my opinion the pipe is useful because (with the top loosely bolted) it helps you to place the tiny hose on the engine nipple.

The next time I have to do this I will order the OEM replacement which comes as the pipe with a pre-attached hose. The reason is while the Gates hose is very robust the inner and outer diameter of the hose makes placement on the block and hose clamp tightening difficult.

Actually, for me, the most difficult part of this process was finding the best way to tighten the clamp around the PHH near the block.

The OEM part would make the whole process easier. I hope it's available in 18 years when I do this again.

 

[97LC80]

Thanks Rolliges, I appreciate it.

 

[jaymar]

Check this thread for detailed bypass how-to. There is only one possible position from which you can tighten the hose clamp. See photos.

Master Thread P/Ns with Photos (Belts & Hoses)

Thought it might be useful for folks to post photos (and helpful hints) like these in different categories. I'll start off with Belts & Hoses because that's what I'm doing now. It can take hours to track down the right P/Ns; this should save a lot of folks a lot of time. If all such threads are...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[97LC80]

Job Done. Thanks again, Rolliges and Jaymar. Thanks also to other members who have shared their experiences. Based on this, I was able to get through this project with a good deal of patience and perseverance. I also took my time and was careful not to impact anything in the surrounding work areas.

Some things that I found helpful in removing the phh were 13" neednose pliers, using a straight handle hacksaw to cut off the cotter key clamp, and then a 3 1/2" Betty Crocker paring knife to cut the little bugger (hopefully my wife won't find out).

To mount the new hoses, I put them in a bucket of hot water first to get them as pliable as possible (and particularly as I was doing this in mid thirty degree weather). When I put them on, I used hot soapy water on the connecting surfaces.

Once again, I appreciate all the help and advice.

Happy Holidays!

 

[jaymar]

Job Done. Thanks again, Rolliges and Jaymar. Thanks also to other members who have shared their experiences. Based on this, I was able to get through this project with a good deal of patience and perseverance. I also took my time and was careful not to impact anything in the surrounding work areas.

Some things that I found helpful in removing the phh were 13" neednose pliers, using a straight handle hacksaw to cut off the cotter key clamp, and then a 3 1/2" Betty Crocker paring knife to cut the little bugger (hopefully my wife won't find out).

To mount the new hoses, I put them in a bucket of hot water first to get them as pliable as possible (and particularly as I was doing this in mid thirty degree weather). When I put them on, I used hot soapy water on the connecting surfaces.

Once again, I appreciate all the help and advice.

Happy Holidays!

If you did bypass , be sure to remove unused metal tube so it doesn’t interfere with bottom end.

 

[97LC80]

Thanks for the followup. I did take the tube out as I did the work. I appreciate the recommendation.

 

[Ballsie]

My buddy and I made a day out of doing maintenance on my LX. He knocked out the entire PHH while I ran to pick up Whataburger. I had told him about everyone saying it is a total PITA, but when I got home with lunch he was like, "who told you that was hard? It took 10 minutes." lol

We did have the truck on a lift. Maybe that made it easier for him.

 

[jaymar]

My buddy and I made a day out of doing maintenance on my LX. He knocked out the entire PHH while I ran to pick up Whataburger. I had told him about everyone saying it is a total PITA, but when I got home with lunch he was like, "who told you that was hard? It took 10 minutes." lol

We did have the truck on a lift. Maybe that made it easier for him.

“Inconceivable!”

 

[edwards_rljr]

i know this is a older thread, but i'm looking into doing the PHH on my 1997 FZJ80, so was looking over the info again since it's been almost 10 years since i did it for my 1993 (which was sadly totaled by a idiot teenage girl on her cell phone that turned in front of me while i was going 60mph).

so, my question is, why does it seem most people use the gates green stripe hose instead of silicone? I used silicone hose with breeze clamps on my '93 after reading somewhere about how superior silicone hose is and that it would be best because of the PHH being in such a high heat location, and a hassle to get to, and that using silicone hose would mean that you wouldn't have to do this job again for a very long time, if ever. Is there some other opinions or reasons why you guys are not using silicone hose?

Also, it's hilarious and confusing to me how some people talk about how terrible and what a PITA replacing the PHH is, and others are saying "piece of cake, i did this in 10 minutes". I remember it being a PITA for me, but i'm no professional mechanic, it was my first time doing it, and i don't have a tricked out garage with a professional lift so I was sitting on the ground.

 

[retrofive]

i know this is a older thread, but i'm looking into doing the PHH on my 1997 FZJ80, so was looking over the info again since it's been almost 10 years since i did it for my 1993 (which was sadly totaled by a idiot teenage girl on her cell phone that turned in front of me while i was going 60mph).

so, my question is, why does it seem most people use the gates green stripe hose instead of silicone? I used silicone hose with breeze clamps on my '93 after reading somewhere about how superior silicone hose is and that it would be best because of the PHH being in such a high heat location, and a hassle to get to, and that using silicone hose would mean that you wouldn't have to do this job again for a very long time, if ever. Is there some other opinions or reasons why you guys are not using silicone hose?

Also, it's hilarious and confusing to me how some people talk about how terrible and what a PITA replacing the PHH is, and others are saying "piece of cake, i did this in 10 minutes". I remember it being a PITA for me, but i'm no professional mechanic, it was my first time doing it, and i don't have a tricked out garage with a professional lift so I was sitting on the ground.

The issue with silicone is it weeps water into its pours so to speak. Some have got lucky I suppose, but many have reports the gate green stripe as a better solution for this application.

 

[ajax1]

i know this is a older thread, but i'm looking into doing the PHH on my 1997 FZJ80, so was looking over the info again since it's been almost 10 years since i did it for my 1993 (which was sadly totaled by a idiot teenage girl on her cell phone that turned in front of me while i was going 60mph).

so, my question is, why does it seem most people use the gates green stripe hose instead of silicone? I used silicone hose with breeze clamps on my '93 after reading somewhere about how superior silicone hose is and that it would be best because of the PHH being in such a high heat location, and a hassle to get to, and that using silicone hose would mean that you wouldn't have to do this job again for a very long time, if ever. Is there some other opinions or reasons why you guys are not using silicone hose?

Also, it's hilarious and confusing to me how some people talk about how terrible and what a PITA replacing the PHH is, and others are saying "piece of cake, i did this in 10 minutes". I remember it being a PITA for me, but i'm no professional mechanic, it was my first time doing it, and i don't have a tricked out garage with a professional lift so I was sitting on the ground.

I have found that the silicone hoses tend to weep till you get them perfect, I’ve never had issue with gates hose so I just go to that. I feel the phh is easy if you have correct tools, my truck is also lifted so I can sit in the wheel well and have easy access to it. I’m also a aviation mechanic and have worked land cruisers professionally for a little bit. So to me this hose is not really a big deal when you have done other things that are way more difficult. Having the correct tools and understanding things mechanically makes jobs easier.

 

[clx16]

I did mine two weeks ago along with the little curved heater hoses and the heater valve. I was pretty annoyed that i waited so long and let Mud convence me that it was really hard.

The metal tube brackets seemed to be most people's contention but i had the lower one off in just a couple of minutes and was looking for a lower one until I realized my hand was on the top bolt. 3/8 in. Drive T-Bar With Flexible Ratchet
Works great for the lower one.
I used synthetic dialectic grease to east the hoses back on and for tightening hose clamps etc I used the DeWalt 90 degree impact driver extension with extensions

DEWALT MAXFIT Right Angle Magnetic Attachment DWARA60 - The Home Depot

The DEWALT MAXFIT Right Angle Attachment features a compact 1-1/2 in. front-to-back design. This Right angle holder provide users with accessibility in close-quarter drilling and fastening applications.

www.homedepot.com

Worst part for me was draining the coolant and trying to avoid a mess.

 

[edwards_rljr]

thanks for the replies. i had not heard about the weeping and silicone actually being permeable/porous and causing coolant loss... i had just read about how much better/heat resistant/resilient silicone hoses are and how you would probably never have to replace them so it seemed like a great idea... now i'm pissed that i spent almost $100 on what i thought was super nice set of silicone radiator and heater hoses for my '97... well s***...

 

[FJonny81]

"Nobody knows what the easy ways to change the PHH are?"

Your research methods suck.

1. Pull driver's side wheel.
2. Remove tranny dipstick
3. So

Well, what a freakin NIGHTMARE.

Definitely drain 1 gallon of Radiator Fluid or you will lose 1 gallon trying to fit that PHH on.

I used my long pivot ratchet with "T" to get to that ridiculous middle 12MM bolt. Once Loosened I left it there and disconnect upper angled hose from the Heater Valve. Loosen the mounts around it to help give it more play.

Went to the bottom and removed the screw clamp and OEM spring clamp.

Started to cut the hose on outer end but lucky it was replaced once before so it slipped out. THEN the GUSHER, Split Rad Fluid right into my waiting pans .

Tried to be cheap and swap asap, NOT. Too Darn Slippery. Once she stopped dripping. I managed to tweak the pipe back and slipped engine side on first then the pipe after tweaking it back to original position.

I have to say the Wits End Clamps are really nice and will not harm the New Gates GREEN Lined Hose.

Buttoned everything up and re-filled the Rad Fluid with Heater on at Maximum.

JOB DONE! Thanks to all Contributors

Issue I had was once you move the pipe out, you must move it back in position to fit the hose without bulging out the side. Oh yeah, that middle 12MM bolt was an extreme PITA.

4. Cut the PHH in two
5. Cut off the hose to the heater valve
6. Undo the top bolt
7. Twist the rigid line until the bottom tab breaks off
8. Remove the rigid line
9. Remove the remnants of the hose
10. Reinstall new hose to the rigid line
11. Put everthing back

The PHH is one of the easiest jobs on a Series 80, provided the mechanic doesn't overthink it.

Drain

Well, what a freakin NIGHTMARE.

Definitely drain 1 gallon of Radiator Fluid or you will lose 1 gallon trying to fit that PHH on.

I used my long pivot ratchet with "T" to get to that ridiculous middle 12MM bolt. Once Loosened I left it there and disconnect upper angled hose from the Heater Valve. Loosen the mounts around it to help give it more play.

Went to the bottom and removed the screw clamp and OEM spring clamp.

Started to cut the hose on outer end but lucky it was replaced once before so it slipped out. THEN the GUSHER, Split Rad Fluid right into my waiting pans .

Tried to be cheap and swap asap, NOT. Too Darn Slippery. Once she stopped dripping. I managed to tweak the pipe back and slipped engine side on first then the pipe after tweaking it back to original position.

I have to say the Wits End Clamps are really nice and will not harm the New Gates GREEN Lined Hose.

Buttoned everything up and re-filled the Rad Fluid with Heater on at Maximum.

JOB DONE! Thanks to all Contributors

Issue I had was once you move the pipe out, you must move it back in position to fit the hose without bulging out the side. Oh yeah, that middle 12MM bolt was an extreme PITA.

Did you drain a gallon of red from the block or from where you cut the PHH?

 

[lp2k]

Drain

Did you drain a gallon of red from the block or from where you cut the PHH?

The radiator

 

[FirstToy]

i know this is a older thread, but i'm looking into doing the PHH on my 1997 FZJ80, so was looking over the info again since it's been almost 10 years since i did it for my 1993 (which was sadly totaled by a idiot teenage girl on her cell phone that turned in front of me while i was going 60mph).

so, my question is, why does it seem most people use the gates green stripe hose instead of silicone? I used silicone hose with breeze clamps on my '93 after reading somewhere about how superior silicone hose is and that it would be best because of the PHH being in such a high heat location, and a hassle to get to, and that using silicone hose would mean that you wouldn't have to do this job again for a very long time, if ever. Is there some other opinions or reasons why you guys are not using silicone hose?

Also, it's hilarious and confusing to me how some people talk about how terrible and what a PITA replacing the PHH is, and others are saying "piece of cake, i did this in 10 minutes". I remember it being a PITA for me, but i'm no professional mechanic, it was my first time doing it, and i don't have a tricked out garage with a professional lift so I was sitting on the ground.

I believe OEM hose is the best, and using OEM ct clamps.
Gates / aftermarket ct clamps is a readily available second choice. (Gates is a larger OD, OEM clamps will not fit)

The reason is rubber will fuse to the metal nipples and create a seal, the clamps acting as a secondary mechanical force.

Silicone will not, and needs higher clamping force to hold onto the nipples. In turn, needing ct clamps so you don't cut into the hose.
Also, once Joey's (wits end) brand new silicone PHH blew out on the road, I decided Toyota is a lot smarter than I am and basically changing a few inches of hose every couple decades isn't bad maintenance.

Also highly recommend changing the FHH located a few inches forward of the PHH. That is likely to cause the same problems as a phh.

 

[lp2k]

Gates green stripe with 2 constant torque clamps is the grenade to the house fly. From ashy to classy

 

[lp2k]

Also highly recommend changing the FHH located a few inches forward of the PHH. That is likely to cause the same problems as a phh.

Oh man I remember this - I didnt want to take out the whole intake plenum but was able to get that hose off and set the OEM new hose with 2 new OEM clamps, with the OEM clamps held with one hand, I used a long needle nose to pull off that retainer and set both sides for that hose in place. Solid now for a few years.

 

[WannaCruise]

I'm about to tackle the PHH, FHH, and all the others to be safe, but I have a question on which hose clamps to use. I see a lot of people going for the Breeze Constant Torque clamps, but I was wondering why people don't use the factory part # 90467-21010. It would seem these would be easier to install than to Breeze, they are cheaper, and they are an OEM component. Do they not fit over the 5/8" Gates hose or something?