Builds Drift Monkey's Wheelin' Build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 12, 2022
Threads
6
Messages
134
Location
Austin
Most current pic:

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Hey y'all!

Figured I'd make a post to document my progress and keep a list of baseline items I need to accomplish.

I recently "upgraded" to a '97 "40th Anniversary" tripled locked w/252k miles after I had an unfortunate mishap with my '06 4Runner Sport Edition V8 4WD (rolled). "40th Edition" in quotes because I don't think it is? Paint code doesn't seem right but it has the two-tone seats/interior and mats. 🤷‍♂️ Anyway, it seemed like a decent price considering the market/condition...and oh yeah, this is my first 80! :cool:

The 4Runner was built pretty nicely and took me to CO, UT, and AZ - I had her for 8 years. I'll miss her dearly.

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Anyway, pics of how the new girl's condition and how she sits right now:

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PO did some maintenance/mods. I got the receipts for rear main seal, hubs and bearings, random hoses replaced, brand new AC compressor/lines, valve cover job, and brand new OEM EGR stuff (lol). The only leak they had was a small power steering one, so I'll be investigating that. For mods, sort variant of OME lift, some sort of ARB (or ARB style) bumper that is in REAL bad shape and bent from somehow winching like an idiot, black Procomp wheels with 35s, and an ARB roof rack. The rear carpet and third row seats are gone as they were planning do a drawer build back there as well. Pretty decent shape - a dent from a boat trailer mishap that dented and smashed the rear marker light, couple dents. Frame rails have a little bit of surface rust, rear axle has some decent surface rust (I picked it up by the Texas coast).

Things I've done so far:
  • Cleaned the dusty ass interior off a bit. Cleaned the hell out of the windows.
  • Replaced a vacuum cap on the brake booster elbow (realized pretty quickly this wasn't an OEM part). There was a vacuum hiss audible at idle so I tracked it down. Brakes feel better now.
  • Replaced 10A dome light fuse which fixed the dome lights, radio, clock function. Should have done this before driving her 3 hours home lol.
  • Greased the all the driveshafts - one of the front shaft spider shafts was completely missing so I fixed that. I had some front driveline noise that quieted down after doing this.
  • Fixed all the burnt out bulbs around the entire exterior.
  • Fixed the broken cig lighter port.
  • Changed the broken rear marker lamp with a brand new one.
  • Changed all 3 crusty wipers for brand new NWB units.
  • Changed front driver/passenger Door Belt moldings. Amazing how these little bits make her look so much less junky. The interior side mirror "garnishes" were a real PITA and I ended up breaking one (and ghetto repairing it with some plastic bonder). I'll end up outright replacing these at some point.
  • Installed a new inner window weatherstrip/felt assembly on the driver's door, the original was randomly missing.
  • Did HuddExpo's EGR Test Kit. Temp sensor was fun. I randomly got P0401 - it didn't come back after I cleared it, but I don't really feel like messing with this ever again.
Things to do:
  • First big job, all the cooling/heating system stuff - the radiator and hoses are pitiful - seem to be all original. I'm gonna post a list of parts for reference below.
  • Drive belts look pretty rough, will do that with the rad out "while I'm at it."
  • Small steering system leak - need to track this down. I pressure washed all the gunk off the the front/side of the block from the valve cover leak they had. Also sprayed the power steering box/area to try to track it down. I'll probably start with the replacing the resi regardless.
  • Do all the vacuum lines.
  • Replace all fluids.
  • Put an OEM air filter in.
  • Neither of the 2 front seats move back and forth (everything else works) - likely need new gears/caps from Gamviti.
  • Driver's door lock switch is wonky - seems like I can only lock but not unlock, but it doesn't always work to lock either. Central lock/unlock works on passenger's door but only lock works from the driver's door. Update: fixed with some Teflon spray in the keyholes.
  • Both rear door locks' actuators seem be out.
  • Front windows are slow, rears come down maybe 2" lol.
  • Probably eventually do all the door lock actuators, window motors/regulators/window runs.
  • Airbag light is on and annoying me. Edit: Tried to reset the light but it keeps coming back when turning off and setting back to the "On" position. Ran DTC and got code 31. Ordered a used Airbag Sensor Assembly (8917060010) off eBay.
  • Remove and sell the roof rack - I'm not a roof rack guy. Replace or just outright remove the drip rails.
  • I'm probably forgetting some stuff, but I'll add 'em as I remember. :lol:

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Here's the cooling/heating stuff I have to order. Someone please let me know if there's anything else I'm forgetting "while I'm in there." I'll be using Partsouq, wit's end, and Capo Valley/McGeorge while cross-shopping.

Cooling system
  • TYC 1918
  • OEM Radiator Cap 16401-54750
  • AISIN FCT004
  • AISIN FNT004
  • (1) 16571-66030 radiator hose
  • (1) 16572-66021 radiator hose
  • (1) 16573-66010 radiator hose
  • (4) 90466-41008 (50mm) OEM Radiator Hose Clamp- med
  • (2) 90467-43002 (54mm) Radiator Hose Clamp- large
  • (1) 99555-10200 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16267-66020 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16261-66040 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16264-66021 Coolant bypass hose
  • AISIN WPT023
  • (1) OEM Thermostat (90916-03117)
  • (1) OEM Thermostat o-ring (16346-66020)
  • (3) OEM Bypass o-rings (90301-29006)
  • 22271-66010 Throttle Body Gasket
Belts
  • 90916-02353-83
  • 99332-10910-83

Heating system
  • Heater Control Valve 95-97 87240-60170
  • 1FZ OEM PHH Tube 87209-60381 (also considering the workaround/bypass here)
  • 1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps
  • OEM heater hose inlet (87245-60480)
  • OEM heater hose outlet A (87245-60350)
  • OEM heater hose outlet B (87245-60340)
  • OEM rear heater hose
  • (6) OEM Constant Torque Spring Clamp for 5/8" ID Heater Hose (90467-21010)
  • (2) Heater Hose Clamp for 1/2" ID Hose (87124-60070)
 
Here's the cooling/heating stuff I have to order. Someone please let me know if there's anything else I'm forgetting "while I'm in there." I'll be using Partsouq, wit's end, and Capo Valley/McGeorge while cross-shopping.

Cooling system
  • TYC 1918
  • OEM Radiator Cap 16401-54750
  • AISIN FCT004
  • AISIN FNT004
  • (1) 16571-66030 radiator hose
  • (1) 16572-66021 radiator hose
  • (1) 16573-66010 radiator hose
  • (4) 90466-41008 (50mm) OEM Radiator Hose Clamp- med
  • (2) 90467-43002 (54mm) Radiator Hose Clamp- large
  • (1) 99555-10200 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16267-66020 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16261-66040 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16264-66021 Coolant bypass hose
  • AISIN WPT023
  • (1) OEM Thermostat (90916-03117)
  • (1) OEM Thermostat o-ring (16346-66020)
  • (3) OEM Bypass o-rings (90301-29006)
  • 22271-66010 Throttle Body Gasket
Belts
  • 90916-02353-83
  • 99332-10910-83

Heating system
  • Heater Control Valve 95-97 87240-60170
  • 1FZ OEM PHH Tube 87209-60381 (also considering the workaround/bypass here)
  • 1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps
  • OEM heater hose inlet (87245-60480)
  • OEM heater hose outlet A (87245-60350)
  • OEM heater hose outlet B (87245-60340)
  • OEM rear heater hose
  • (6) OEM Constant Torque Spring Clamp for 5/8" ID Heater Hose (90467-21010)
  • (2) Heater Hose Clamp for 1/2" ID Hose (87124-60070)
One thing to note is that the OEM radiator cap struggles to seal some TYC radiators as it has a longer neck. Some people run aftermarket caps and have better luck. I personally ran a Sankei cap after hearing this, and it would weep coolant at the cap seal. After that I slapped on the one year old OEM cap I bought from wits end, and it’s basically doing the same thing with the added bonus of having a pressure buildup when I remove the cap, even after leaving it to cool over night and trying to open it on a cool morning.

I’m currently trying to find info on what cap to run and that’s how I stumbled on this thread. I figured I’d let you know as I’m currently experiencing what I hope you won’t! 😅

Best of luck, and congrats on the purchase!
 
One thing to note is that the OEM radiator cap struggles to seal some TYC radiators as it has a longer neck. Some people run aftermarket caps and have better luck. I personally ran a Sankei cap after hearing this, and it would weep coolant at the cap seal. After that I slapped on the one year old OEM cap I bought from wits end, and it’s basically doing the same thing with the added bonus of having a pressure buildup when I remove the cap, even after leaving it to cool over night and trying to open it on a cool morning.

I’m currently trying to find info on what cap to run and that’s how I stumbled on this thread. I figured I’d let you know as I’m currently experiencing what I hope you won’t! 😅

Best of luck, and congrats on the purchase!

This thread may be of some use to you! Try bending the tabs on the oem cap as described - let me know if that works.

I’m gearing up to do all of my cooling stuff soon - all the parts except for the small heater hoses and PHH from Wit’s End are here but I may start doing some of it this week.
 
This thread may be of some use to you! Try bending the tabs on the oem cap as described - let me know if that works.

I’m gearing up to do all of my cooling stuff soon - all the parts except for the small heater hoses and PHH from Wit’s End are here but I may start doing some of it this week.
Well I tried it, but not on an OEM cap. I did it on the Sankei cap I bought and ended up bending the tabs too much. 😭
It scraped off some of the plastic that guides the tabs into place and sealed so good that I wasn’t getting any coolant back into the radiator. No good on the Sankei cap, but I also didn’t wanna do it to the oem as it’s my backup cap in case all s*** hits the fan. I bought another Sankei cap for the meantime to experiment on and if that also fails, I’ll probably just buy another OEM cap and bend the one I currently have.

I do appreciate the info though as it’s a step in the right direction, and as stressful as it is, I’d like to provide some info to fellow mudders if they’re ever faced with the same situation as I have!
 
OEM radiator all day

A lot of us in AZ (in the Copper State Cruisers club) have had really good luck with the TYC radiators (TYC 1918) and a modified blue hub fan clutch (30k CST in mine). Tough to beat for $150 and a $10 bottle of silicon oil.

Nothing against OEM though!
 
No fuss with my OEM rad with OEM cap with a landtank modified fan clutch. I don't want made in China sht anywhere near my made in Japan LC if I can help it.

Thread owner clearly values OEM parts and has done the homework to source from vendors offering competitive pricing. I see no reason why he should cut corners on the radiator that'll last you another couple of decades. Do you.
 
No fuss with my OEM rad with OEM cap with a landtank modified fan clutch. I don't want made in China sht anywhere near my made in Japan LC if I can help it.

Thread owner clearly values OEM parts and has done the homework to source from vendors offering competitive pricing. I see no reason why he should cut corners on the radiator that'll last you another couple of decades. Do you.

Any idea what the landtank clutch comes with, fluid wise? just curious
 
@Drift Monkey hopefully whichever radiator you go with works in your climate and helps keep that beauty of a cruiser running for ya! I know it’s tough for us Tx/Az cruisers! 😄
The TYC unit is sitting in the cargo trunk as I type this - I've received everything but the heater hoses/upgraded power steering lines and cooler from @NLXTACY, so I figured I should probably wait to do it all at once. I'm itching because I feel like she really needs this done asap. I'm kinda worried about the OEM cap now...:cautious:

Since my last post I've:
  • Swapped the airbag sensor unit out for an eBay unit, light is gone!
  • Replaced the master switch unit with a Switch Doctor unit from Amazon - power locks work again (just for the 2 front doors still lol)
  • Replaced the brake booster hose - old one was super crusty.
  • OEM PCV valve and vacuum lines/clamps - old one was still working but the grommet shattered so that was fun. Eventually got everything out with the vise grip/jack handle method mentioned on here and fished out the bits out of the cage it sits in with a small pair of needle nose pliers. The hoses were newer but not OEM and had junky worm drive clamps.
  • Replaced seat gears/caps on driver and passenger seats - almost ruined the driver's side gear tube trying to get the gear off without a vise. I came up with a solid method (hammer and wood block) that did the job - passenger side went way smoother.
  • Charcoal canister evap lines/clamps - changed these out, also crusty.
  • Bits and goodies from @Outsane - replacement ignition ring for the original one which was breaking apart, vent bushing things, and a replacement seat angle adjustment knob that was missing.
  • Full "tune up" - noticed a distributor o-ring leak so did the whole shebang. OEM o-ring, cap, rotor, rotor gasket, plugs, wires, air filter. Everything went relatively smoothly - used a guide here on setting the crank pulley to 0 TDC "piston up" and got it all done. Had to reset the distributor once - I think I missed a tooth before on first assembly so I re-did it. Re-learned how to use a timing light - it's been AGES. Have the timing set to around 6-7 degrees advanced now.
  • Tested, drained, and filled the new Aisin blue hub fan clutch with 30k fluid in anticipation for the cooling system overhaul.
  • Did some de-rusting around the axles/mounts (and whatever the hell brake booster is in there) with some Krud Kutter gel spray. Worked pretty well. Will probably paint the stuff at some point but it's way better now.
  • The distributor connector was held on by zip ties :rofl: since it was missing the push clip retainer so I de-pinned and snapped on a new OEM connector. The MAF sensor was also missing missing the push clip retainer and was just press fit so I did that one as well - weird that the new one that came was white...but it works.
I should probably add this stuff to my running list up top... :doh: I took pictures of most of this work if anyone is interested - if not I'm too lazy right now.
 
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That's a lot of stuff
It’s just the start - haven’t even hit the “fun” stuff yet!

Since Wit’s End is having some issues, I reordered all the heater hoses (curved and all), LC100 rear heater hose (87245-6A201) to cut into 2 pieces for the curved rear hear hard line fittings, OEM CLAMPS, and the hard line to upper thermostat housing gasket.

Power steering low pressure return lines from the Previa (44412-28160) (one one online dealer seemed to even have these left!) and Tacoma (44412-04010). Normal pump feed line (44348-60170) and all new clamps for everything. I sprayed off the back of the pump a while back and there's no fluid forming on the back, so hopefully it's just the lines - curiously the leak seems to have slowed for some reason.

Another fuel line (to the the throttle body across the top) since it’s obvious and looks crusty along with new clamps, and the “gas filter” screwed into the intake manifold - which is currently taped up for some reason (likely broken). Might be a small vacuum leak there that’s inaudible (unlike my broke booster leak that I fixed) so I might as well.

Still need to gather some more tools (mostly from Harbor Freight), and distilled water/Toyota red (local dealer probably best bet for this) but I’ve been gathering more and more tools up in anticipation for the cooling/heating system overhaul. I can’t say no to tools, I have a problem. :rofl:
 
Last edited:
Here's the cooling/heating stuff I have to order. Someone please let me know if there's anything else I'm forgetting "while I'm in there." I'll be using Partsouq, wit's end, and Capo Valley/McGeorge while cross-shopping.

Cooling system
  • TYC 1918
  • OEM Radiator Cap 16401-54750
  • AISIN FCT004
  • AISIN FNT004
  • (1) 16571-66030 radiator hose
  • (1) 16572-66021 radiator hose
  • (1) 16573-66010 radiator hose
  • (4) 90466-41008 (50mm) OEM Radiator Hose Clamp- med
  • (2) 90467-43002 (54mm) Radiator Hose Clamp- large
  • (1) 99555-10200 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16267-66020 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16261-66040 Coolant bypass hose
  • (1) 16264-66021 Coolant bypass hose
  • AISIN WPT023
  • (1) OEM Thermostat (90916-03117)
  • (1) OEM Thermostat o-ring (16346-66020)
  • (3) OEM Bypass o-rings (90301-29006)
  • 22271-66010 Throttle Body Gasket
Belts
  • 90916-02353-83
  • 99332-10910-83

Heating system
  • Heater Control Valve 95-97 87240-60170
  • 1FZ OEM PHH Tube 87209-60381 (also considering the workaround/bypass here)
  • 1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps
  • OEM heater hose inlet (87245-60480)
  • OEM heater hose outlet A (87245-60350)
  • OEM heater hose outlet B (87245-60340)
  • OEM rear heater hose
  • (6) OEM Constant Torque Spring Clamp for 5/8" ID Heater Hose (90467-21010)
  • (2) Heater Hose Clamp for 1/2" ID Hose (87124-60070)
This (and threads linked from it) could also be useful, for seeing where these things go...

 
This (and threads linked from it) could also be useful, for seeing where these things go...

Thanks for the tip, great reference! Now I’m sure I’m not done ordering stuff yet…🤣
 

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