My MS2FE build - 2F Block, 3FE head / intake, Megasquirt ECU (1 Viewer)

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There seemed to be some interest from a couple other threads about this, and I intended to do a full writeup once everything was fully running and tuned. However, I realized this is going to take some time to document properly, so I guess I'll get started and add to this as I find time.

First, I started fully rebuilt and internally balanced a 2F block. Also started with a 3FE (from FJ80) head and EFI bits. I won't document the "2FE" portion of the build, since there are plenty of threads already in existence. I'll start from the fully assembled 2FE point and document the ECU build and associated changes necessary to the motor as well as the wiring.

I used the dizzy from the FJ80 and replaced the cap and rotor.

First and foremost, go here and READ, READ, and READ again before anything! Familarize yourself with what you are about to get into.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS2V30_Hardware-3.3.pdf

Things that go away from the stock setup:

  • All EGR / vacuum VSV controls
  • Cold start injector
  • All wiring (saved some of the connectors for pigtails)
  • Cold start plumbing
  • MAF (all of it)
  • More stuff I'll add as I think about this
I ordered almost all of my Megasquirt gear from here:
http://www.diyautotune.com

Basic ECU Order:
I started with this for the initial order...
Products
------------------------------------------------------
1 x MegaSquirt-II Programmable EFI System PCB3.0 - Kit w/ BLACK CASE (MS230-K) = $278.00
1 x MegaSquirt Wiring Bundle - 12' Long (LG-WireBund) = $46.00
1 x Zeal Engineering Daughterboard with Dual VR Conditioners (ZealDB1-K) = $35.00
1 x MegaSquirt Relay Cable (MSRelayCable) = $85.00
1 x MegaSquirt Relay Board - UnAssembled Kit (MSRelay-K) = $73.00
1 x MegaSquirt Stimulator v2.2 - UnAssembled Kit (MSStim22-K) = $45.00

Water temp sensor from diyautotune:
DIYAutoTune.com
Item# GM Closed Element CLT / IAT Sensor with Connector$16.25 USD1$16.25 USD


Go ahead and order 2 of these, as I should have in the beginning - 1 for the AIT and 1 for CLT

wideband O2 sensor from Amazon:

"Innovate Motorsports 3796 DB RED Complete Wideband Gauge Kit (2 1/16 52mm) with LC-1, O2 Sensor, Bung and Plug"
Automotive; $164.20

fuel pump:
There are a ton of choices out there, but I chose a Bosch unit that I can order from amazon or a parts house in the future, and it's pretty cheap. It uses hose barbs on both ends, which gave me a lot of flexibility. You might want to go with higher grade -an hoses, and an "aftermarket" pump such as Aeromotive / Edelbrock / Holley:

Bosch 69418 Original Equipment Replacement Electric Fuel Pump

Sold by Amazon.com LLC




$73.38

Fuel Filter:
Again, I went with a hose barb style EFI filter from Summit. This is for the pressurized side. I used a generic inline pre filter before the pump, that I got for like $10 at Autozone:
Item
Status*
Price
Qty.
Total


EDL-3596
Fuel Filter, In-Line, for EDL EFI Systems, Steel, Natural, Paper Element, 45 psi Maximum FuelPressure, Each
(Mfr. #: 3596)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$16.97
1
$16.97


Fuel Injector connectors:
Here are some weather pack connectors for wiring the stock injectors:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/571
These provide a nice clean terminal for the MS Fuel Injector wires.
$4.99 x 6

SOFTWARE:
http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio
This is the Tuning software that allows you to communicate with the MegaSquirt, and build your tune. It is very well supported and they are always adding features and fixing any bugs. It's about $60 for the full-blown version, although there is a freeware you can play with to get started. I'll add a section with screenshots from my tuning to give you an idea of how to setup the 2FE.


That's about it for the initial post, as I mentioned, I'll add pics and WAY more info as time allows.



:beer: Ramon
 
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Not yet. weather has been beautiful here so been wrenching and enjoying the outdoors some. I took my first drive to the gas station and around my neighborhood - doing some tuning. It's going to take a while to dial it in, but I can already tell, this motor has some JUICE!
 
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I'm afraid that fuel pump will likely be the weak link. I don't know anything about that one in particular, but over the last 20-30 years every external pump I've ever seen (there have been maybe a half dozen) failed within a year. It's the heat that kills them. Every OEM setup I've seen that develops the pressure necessary for injection uses an in tank pump to keep it cool.

Some guys use a surge tank, which seems like a very practical way to solve the problem. I'm less practical, so I just made a big tank and grabbed a spare C4 Corvette fuel pump off the shelf, it's hidden under the inspection cover:

 
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You're probably right, but I'm rolling the dice for a few reasons.

1. I'm not skilled enough to build my own tank, and since this is FAR from a daily driver, the FP won't see a lot of service over the course of a year.
2. $$$
3. I'm seeing a LOT of aftermarket systems (Holley, MSD, etc) that use external pumps, so I don't know that that's going to be an issue. This Bosch pump is an OE pump from a BMW, IIRC, so hopefully it's decent quality.

Badass tank and setup you have there!

:beer: Ramon
 
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Some BMW fuel pumps are known to be unreliable with no apparent resolution. So bad that they did a 100k warranty and a TSB on the twin turbo 3.0 models from 06+

Despite that, I am very excited to watch this thread and may follow suit. I am not sure on the computer I will use, but a 2Fe is most likely in my future if my compression figures come out positive.

Im looking forward to your thread and will check out your link.
 
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Well, sorry I haven't updated this thread. That will come soon. I've been dealing with an issue where the motor would not run right with the alternator on. More on that later, but for now, a little teaser video:


She's going to be a screamer, especially once dyno tuned.

:beer: Ramon
 
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Pretty cool - got a tablet working with the ECU for a hightech dashboard...


It will communicate via bluetooth when my RS232 - BlueTooth adapter arrives Monday.

:beer: R
 
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something I can actually comment on.....

Although I have less experience with the newer variations of MS - there really is no need for anything newer than MS1 V2.2 or MS1 V3.0 for a basic EFI setup. If you plan to go with boost and want additional input/outputs then going with additional boards and better MS units may be a better option. With that said I had a supercharged 4 cyl in an MR2 on MS1 V2.2 without issue. I had another MR2 on a custom high compression 1.8L running on MS1 V3.0.

I believe MS1 V3.0 will allow you to make changes to the CLT/IAT sensor input values so you can use whatever sensors you want, just need to calibrate. The MS1 V2.2 I used Toyota sensors but had to change 2 of the resistors on the board (that might be documented somewhere online). The best air temp sensor I've found for ease of installation came in the MAP based Toyota's of the early 90's - simple 1.5" long sensor with 2 wires that just gets plugged through a grommeted hole in the intake. Simple as that.


I would save the $85 on the relay harness.... There's a couple reasons for this. Both the MS and the relay board will come with DB37 connectors - and then you just need to measure between where the ECU is stored (no it is not water proof) and where the relay board is (claimed to be water proof but I've never tested that) and then create your own cable. I've done this by cutting wire to the appropriate lengths and having both connections in the same vise - just run the wire from 1 connector to the other and solder. The other reason - if you decide to go way from the distributor and go with something like a Ford EDIS unit (which is quite simple/cheap to setup and allows you to have 100% full control of the ignition map as well) then you will want to bypass the relay board and use shielded cable. (really anything ignition based you should want to use shielded cable anyways so that there isn't interference - it can cause runability issues). If you plan to use a relay board just buy your own wiring and go to town - that way if anything goes wrong (on the road or trail) you know more about your system!


As for the fuel pump issues - people need to remember that unless they specifically state they are a puller pump, they are pusher pumps.... which means they only work correctly (and don't overwork or provide too little pressure) when they are as close to the tank as they can physically get. If you can get an in-tank setup and go with a factory Toyota pump - those are built to last as they tend to be able to provide WAY more fuel than is needed (and is why they rarely die except for in highly modified situations).
 
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I was told the MS1 will not work with a stepper IAC valve. :meh: That, and the negligible difference in price between the 2, I think it's a no-brainer in the grand scheme. This was not a cheap endeavor.

The MSII is controlling the ignition map for the Toyota distributor, so not 100% sure what the EDIS advantage would be there?? I liked the fact the harness came with wiring that is marked individually - mainly for future. I like the relay board, and while it may be "weatherproof", I fitted it under a splash shield on the DS firewall, just where it transitions from the floorboard to the vertical portions. I think it will fairly well protected there:

IMG_4164.jpg


Thanks for the input, if it's determined the next sucker who goes this route can save a few dollars, awesome! :D

:beer: R
 
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With a distributor you're still bound, to an extent to a physical limitation. That and I come from a time where using dizzy's with MS (especially Toyota VAST units) wasn't widely done/accepted yet.

EDIS is a simple distributorless system... found on Ford Escorts, Explorers, Taurus's, Trucks (etc) so there are EDIS4, EDIS6, and EDIS8 units. Some of the wheels are even a bolt on option.

It's installed by setting up a 36-1 wheel on the crank with a sensor that points at the wheel. This is the computers "eye" to the location of TDC. EDIS is an external waterproof computer that reads and runs the ignition. Using a set of coilpacks (it's waste spark, so I guess you could use COP but I don't see a point in this type of setup) from just about any vehicle you can then wire the coilpack to the EDIS unit - and then control timing (base and the map) through MS. Setup is about as simple as... 2 wires that run from EDIS/MS, 2 wires that run to the sensor, and output wires to the coilpacks. 12V switched to EDIS and the coilpack and that's about it. (You would need a tac that can read a wastespark setup and/or build a basic board that has a tac output, if you decide you want one).

I'm unfamiliar with using stepper IAC's... the vehicles I've used them on have a waxistat, basically, for cold idle control. There are simple external Bosch units from the 80's Volvo's that can be used as well.
 
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Got her Dyno Tuned Friday - peak HP=144 Tq= 207 (over 200 from 2k where he started the sweep, through about 3800). Super flat torque. Was done in 3rd gear due to the tire size and condition, so some loss there. Very happy with the results. Seat of the pants is, well, WOW. Spins up real quick from idle. Good AFRs now, and no flat spots.

I promise I'll finish the writeup above when I take a bit more time.


:beer: Ramon
 
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Was going to wait to get a copy of the dyno sweep where the legend doesn't hide most of the torque curve :bang: - but the dyno shop isn't the most responsive. So... here's what I have:

dynorunShare.png


The way I see it, I have very little reason ever to spin her over about 4K, but she'll do 5k pretty easily. Since I didn't upgrade the valves or the springs, I'm not surprised to see the curve trail off like this in the upper RPMs. With 200lb-ft available quickly and all the way up through almost 4k, she will pull when you put the hammer down pretty nicely. Can't wait for our weather to warm up some and get some real seat time - the top is torn apart in my garage for an overhaul at the moment.
 

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