My legacy FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[Legacy80]

Looking at USA Standard and Yukon 29 spline 8" high pinion and ring sets. Will be highway driving with only very very occasional offroad. Which ratrio: 5.29; 4.88; 4.11?

much thanks for the assistance.

 

[DiscoCam]

Looking at USA Standard and Yukon 29 spline 8" high pinion and ring sets. Will be highway driving with only very very occasional offroad. Which ratrio: 5.29; 4.88; 4.11?

much thanks for the assistance.

I think stock ratio is 4.10, maybe it rounds up to 4.11 not sure.

I know nitro has 4.10s. If you have 33s, 4.56 would be ideal. 4.88s for 35s.
But I have heard of people running 35s on stock gears, so ymmv.

 

[Legacy80]

I think stock ratio is 4.10, maybe it rounds up to 4.11 not sure.

I know nitro has 4.10s. If you have 33s, 4.56 would be ideal. 4.88s for 35s.
But I have heard of people running 35s on stock gears, so ymmv.

Thanks for the input. Really helpful. I'm running 33's right now but might go to 35's so I'm looking at the 4.88 sold by Low Range Off Road LC called:
Trail-Creeper 29-Spline Ring & Pinion Gears with 29-Spline Flange Kits
Really hard to tell what's quality and what isn't; so if this product has a bad name or anyone suggests I go with a different, more reliable mfg, I'll be grateful for the advice.

 

[Legacy80]

I've completed the restoration of my 97 FZJ80 legacy LC which was my deceased brother's Montana hunting and fishing rig. Attached are pics. A few more to come in next posts.

This was not a frame up restoration but the following was done: interior & exterior; added rails and rack; new front bumper; original rear rear seats reinstalled; fog lamps added; complete replacement of all shocks, brakes, front and rear differential gears; birfields replaced; engine (249,000 miles) tuned, cleaned, replaced leaking distributor and valve cover gasket, etc (runs great now).

I still have an electrical problem...occasionally, when i turn off the engine (say at a gas station or store) when I try to restart every thing is dead (no horn, lights, door locks windows, etc). Then, after i turn the key to the lock position and wait a minute or so, power is restored but when I try to start it, all goes dead again. Finally, when I jump it with another car or my battery charger/jumper, it starts right up. I would understand if the battery were dead but it's relatively new and after I jump it, the starter will work fine for any number of days until the power goes dead again on a completely random basis. None of this happens when the engin is running Only when I try to start it.

 

[Legacy80]

thoughts...?

 

[Broski]

Looks great !!

Maybe check the fuseable Links

 

[ppc]

Make sure the battery terminals are clean, tight and all cables are in good condition. Just because a battery is relatively new it still could be having an internal failure and should be load tested at your FLAPS.

 

[Legacy80]

Looks great !!

Maybe check the fuseable Links

Thanks, I will.

 

[Legacy80]

Make sure the battery terminals are clean, tight and all cables are in good condition. Just because a battery is relatively new it still could be having an internal failure and should be load tested at your FLAPS.

All looks good.I'll have the battery tested for internal failure. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[subzali]

Very clean and tidy. Does it have the front and rear lockers? Looks the same as mine then, just one year newer. Green with gray interior, front ARB.

What gears/gear ratio did you go with? Did new bearings solve the howling?

 

[Legacy80]

Very clean and tidy. Does it have the front and rear lockers? Looks the same as mine then, just one year newer. Green with gray interior, front ARB.

What gears/gear ratio did you go with? Did new bearings solve the howling?

Yes, it has the front and rear lockers. and the new birfields have the grease fittings at the exterior so they can be lubed easily.

Went with the 4:10 ratio. Had to search down the howling...first replaced the gears in the rear diff (no help); then looked hard at the trans (nothing there; flushed and left it alone; solid); then replaced the front diff gears and birf's (that did it). But the new rack really amplifies the wind noise (especially with the sunroof which isn't noise efficient) so it's not as quiet on regular roads and frwy as I'd like.

 

[BILT4ME]

Yes, it has the front and rear lockers. and the new birfields have the grease fittings at the exterior so they can be lubed easily.

Went with the 4:10 ratio. Had to search down the howling...first replaced the gears in the rear diff (no help); then looked hard at the trans (nothing there; flushed and left it alone; solid); then replaced the front diff gears and birf's (that did it). But the new rack really amplifies the wind noise (especially with the sunroof which isn't noise efficient) so it's not as quiet on regular roads and frwy as I'd like.

Wrap rope around the front bars of the rack. It will break up the airflow and reduce noise. You can also place a plate on the front bars to route air over top.

@98 SNAKE EATER did the rope on his for a while. Maybe he will chime in.

 

[Legacy80]

So my electrical problem continues...I'm wondering if the OEM alarm system which still works has something to do with the complete power failure. Does anyone know whether that system has an automatic full power shutdown if the system detects a theft attempt. Maybe it's malfunctioning. Also, if anyone knows where I can get an owners manual for the alarm system, I'd appreciate that info.

Now that I think about it, there are some other things going on too:

1. about 30% of the time, when I try to start it, turning my key to the starting position yields nothing but silence. Then when I turn it back to the lock position and try again, the car starts normally.

2. The driver's window switch has stopped working. Started failing intermittently then failed completely.

3. The automatic door lock which should engage immediately when shifted into drive often doesn't and then after several minutes of driving locks by itself.

Wierd.

 

[Legacy80]

Wrap rope around the front bars of the rack. It will break up the airflow and reduce noise. You can also place a plate on the front bars to route air over top.

@98 SNAKE EATER did the rope on his for a while. Maybe he will chime in.

Goog idea....thanks.

 

[Broski]

Moving the rack forward or backward 2" well also help with wind noise.

I had the luck with a making a air dam out of Plexiglass, it need to extend down the the windshield to be most effective.

I have also used a modified wind Dam from Thule racks with success

 

[G-Cat]

Are the terminal connectors new? If so, are they the sort that are painted (1 black, 1 red)?

 

[cahill]

Fusible link is a good place to start and easy to test. Not sure they fail as often as they are blamed for but it is a cheap part to replace and guess that most people feel better having a new one in threre. I am not an electrical expert but the intermittent start may be your starter - mine did that on me for a while. I had thought it was a battery problem since it seemed to help to use a jumper - eventually that stopped helping and testing the battery etc showed it was fine. Did some research on mud and decided to replace the starter and it has been fine ever since. I thought about rebuilding the starter but didn't have time.

The window switch is probably the contacts in the switch wearing out or needing to be cleaned up. There are some threads on here about it.

Not sure what to think of the delay in the doors locking. That one is a bit odd to me. Door lock motors are known to wear out on these after 20 years of use but it shouldn't cause a delayed lock like you describe. There is a way to turn off the auto door lock/auto unlock function if you want to. There is a thread on here regarding that as well. Not that it would truely fix the problem or help diagnose it but it is a feature that I didn't know was adjustable until after spending way too much time on mud .

 

[Legacy80]

Fusible link is a good place to start and easy to test. Not sure they fail as often as they are blamed for but it is a cheap part to replace and guess that most people feel better having a new one in threre. I am not an electrical expert but the intermittent start may be your starter - mine did that on me for a while. I had thought it was a battery problem since it seemed to help to use a jumper - eventually that stopped helping and testing the battery etc showed it was fine. Did some research on mud and decided to replace the starter and it has been fine ever since. I thought about rebuilding the starter but didn't have time.

The window switch is probably the contacts in the switch wearing out or needing to be cleaned up. There are some threads on here about it.

Not sure what to think of the delay in the doors locking. That one is a bit odd to me. Door lock motors are known to wear out on these after 20 years of use but it shouldn't cause a delayed lock like you describe. There is a way to turn off the auto door lock/auto unlock function if you want to. There is a thread on here regarding that as well. Not that it would truely fix the problem or help diagnose it but it is a feature that I didn't know was adjustable until after spending way too much time on mud .

Can you tell me what the fusable link is, please?

I suspect ed the starter also. Will either rebuild or replace.

Thanks.

 

[cahill]

Hard for me to describe it, and I am sure someone will be able to do a better job than me and correct my mistakes. It is the wire connector coming off of the battery post (technically it has 3 fussible links in that one device) that act as fuses to prevent a fire if there is too much draw from the battery. Each fusible link (FL) governs different parts of the electrical system which is why there are 3. The electrical factory service manual has details on what each one does and they are labelled FL-1, FL-2, and FL-3 but I am pretty sure they are housed in the same little connector. I'll try and link a thread that has photos.

 

[Legacy80]

Hard for me to describe it, and I am sure someone will be able to do a better job than me and correct my mistakes. It is the wire connector coming off of the battery post (technically it has 3 fussible links in that one device) that act as fuses to prevent a fire if there is too much draw from the battery. Each fusible link (FL) governs different parts of the electrical system which is why there are 3. The electrical factory service manual has details on what each one does and they are labelled FL-1, FL-2, and FL-3 but I am pretty sure they are housed in the same little connector. I'll try and link a thread that has photos.

Thanks again