My legacy FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Not sure what "...without the port installed useless crap abounding these days" means. Did I screw up the pics attachment?

No, he bought it in 2005. I have all the service/repair records on it since then though.
I believe was referring to the fact when 80's arrived to the dealerships many items on the optional list were installed there and not at the factory. Said items are often the first to be removed and depending on dealer some not installed the greatest.
 
Not sure what "...without the port installed useless crap abounding these days" means. Did I screw up the pics attachment?

No, he bought it in 2005. I have all the service/repair records on it since then though.
The plug protruding out of the grill is apparently the engine block heater. Don't need it for CA weather but I intend to leave it for those times when it finds its way to the frozen north.
 
The plug protruding out of the grill is apparently the engine block heater. Don't need it for CA weather but I intend to leave it for those times when it finds its way to the frozen north.
I believe was referring to the fact when 80's arrived to the dealerships many items on the optional list were installed there and not at the factory. Said items are often the first to be removed and depending on dealer some not installed the greatest.
I believe was referring to the fact when 80's arrived to the dealerships many items on the optional list were installed there and not at the factory. Said items are often the first to be removed and depending on dealer some not installed the greatest.
The plug protruding out of the grill is apparently the engine block heater. Don't need it for CA weather but I intend to leave it for those times when it finds its way to the frozen north.
BTW after reading the thread on the differential locking system, I looked for the locking switch on the dash...yup, it's there.
 
Port items were the running boards, a chachi factory luggage rack (extra ~20 holes in the roof), or a alarm system.

You’re lucky yours escaped the port crap - and I know a block heater plug hanging where I live ;)

It’s a compliment, the no port gear comment.
 
Port items were the running boards, a chachi factory luggage rack (extra ~20 holes in the roof), or a alarm system.

You’re lucky yours escaped the port crap - and I know a block heater plug hanging where I live ;)

It’s a compliment, the no port gear comment.
I was planning to add rock rails and a roof rack (tower attached--no holes in roof) when I get the body work done and the rig repainted. Make sense or am I wasting $$ again?
 
I was planning to add rock rails and a roof rack (tower attached--no holes in roof) when I get the body work done and the rig repainted. Make sense or am I wasting $$ again?
I built my own roof rack but we have quite a few options for roof racks for the 80 series that would match your ARB bumper.
 
I was planning to add rock rails and a roof rack (tower attached--no holes in roof) when I get the body work done and the rig repainted. Make sense or am I wasting $$ again?
Lots of good roof solutions here. I personally like the BowFin and Prinsu ones. Both vendors here...................

When researching "rock rails" use the term sliders or rock sliders. I personal like MetalTech's original ones.
 
^^^ +1 - Sliders are a great investment.

If a slider that doubles as a decent running board is of interest, Slee Step Sliders are great steps but still mount to the frame, none of those things that body-mount.

I have Hanna’s - but Ken quit doing things like 6-8yrs ago.
 
Sad story and cool rig, welcome to the forum though.

go for a bowfin or prinsu rack, sliders are a good idea as well, and the rear tailgate storage is a great first modification and space for storing tools or spare parts. We can help you through probably any mechanical repair or maintenance as long as you have the tools and hands for the task, but doing the maintenance yourself is a good way of understanding what is required for repairs and sets you up for being more self sufficient with repair. Kind of the admission price in a way.
 
Man, I can't tell you all how cool it feels to be on the receiving end of your collective knowledge. Makes me feel somewhat inadequate (in a non-physical way) since I have little or nothing to contribute in return. Feels like I'm actually going to get this right for my Bro. Thanks all.
 
^^^ +1 - Sliders are a great investment.

If a slider that doubles as a decent running board is of interest, Slee Step Sliders are great steps but still mount to the frame, none of those things that body-mount.

I have Hanna’s - but Ken quit doing things like 6-8yrs ago.
I just looked at the Slee Step Sliders but ir doesn't look like the pass side slider has a cat converter protection plate. That seems important to have...no?
 
I just looked at the Slee Step Sliders but ir doesn't look like the pass side slider has a cat converter protection plate. That seems important to have...no?

All depends on how you plan to use it.

That said, Hanna has a cat guard - and I swapped off a set of Step Sliders to retain the HQ sliders / RR Bumper as they are my favorite 2 designs.
 
White Knucke Sliders should work. I'd recommend straightening and painting that ARB sooner rather than later.
 
White Knucke Sliders should work. I'd recommend straightening and painting that ARB sooner rather than later.
I'm looking for a body & paint shop in the West San Fernando Valley or Ventura County to do a complete on the 80; any ideas? Ditto for an upholstry shop to bring back the interior. Thanks in advance.
 
I'm looking for a body & paint shop in the West San Fernando Valley or Ventura County to do a complete on the 80; any ideas? Ditto for an upholstry shop to bring back the interior. Thanks in advance.
@NLXTACY and couple others may know.
 
Well, the saga continues.

I'm not a mechanic and although I was once, at 76 years old, that ship has largely sailed.

So I had K&H Auto in Canoga Park, CA (great honest guys who specialize in LC's) look at the beast and they replaced the front knuckle birfield seals (leaking grease all over) and put in new knuckle bearings.

Got it home and for the hell of it put it in low range (for the first time since I got the vehicle) and drove it around the block at no more than 10 mph. Yikes! Every time i turned the wheels left or right more the about 30 degrees, the most god awful clunking and grinding sound came from the front. Doesn't happen when it's in high range.

Thoughts?
 
Well, the saga continues.

I'm not a mechanic and although I was once, at 76 years old, that ship has largely sailed.

So I had K&H Auto in Canoga Park, CA (great honest guys who specialize in LC's) look at the beast and they replaced the front knuckle birfield seals (leaking grease all over) and put in new knuckle bearings.

Got it home and for the hell of it put it in low range (for the first time since I got the vehicle) and drove it around the block at no more than 10 mph. Yikes! Every time i turned the wheels left or right more the about 30 degrees, the most god awful clunking and grinding sound came from the front. Doesn't happen when it's in high range.

Thoughts?
1) They forgot to lube the spindle bushings
2) The birfields should have been replaced
3) You really SHOULDN'T lock it in low (that locks the center differential) when on dry pavement. It likes to make it hop, jump, and break things in the driveline when turning. The old school 4WD could deal with it, but these really don't like it.
 

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