Builds My LC79 build, HZJ79 body, 2uz/A343f UZJ79 (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

You got your front crossmember-body mount lower than we could. When I did the first 80 chassis swap I discovered the main determining point being the rear coil buckets. That was a 62 on an 80 so I got it as low as I could there without cutting the body. The 62 is a frame shorten though. I did the same thing on Tony’s Troopy as far as using the rear wheel wells and body to frame coil buckets to line it all up. We also did the same thing on Johns 79. So basically using this location to start setup from. Curiously, the Troopy is about 1/2” lower than the 79. Other folks have built stink bug into the swap due to the rear coil issue. Then correcting the stink bug with lift. I have never been fond of this route but it does work. Part of the process I try an go through too is making sure the lower body (rocker pinch weld) is the correct height wise on the frame rail. It will look funky with to much frame showing, thing is though, those rear coil buckets pretty much determine everything.

For cab to bed gap, we have the 79 frame here so just measured on that frame rear cab mount to first bed mount.

We are thinking about using the 79 steering box and frame side panhard. We have a brand new 79 steering box that came on the GR chassis. I particularly like the 79 box being farther forward and throwing back. Plus the panhard and box don’t share the same location on the frame thus putting a lot less stress on the frame here. Anyways not sure on this yet, going to finish bed mounts before deciding.

I think you nailed it though for low lift and good tire/wheel combo.

Cheers
 
You got your front crossmember-body mount lower than we could. When I did the first 80 chassis swap I discovered the main determining point being the rear coil buckets. That was a 62 on an 80 so I got it as low as I could there without cutting the body. The 62 is a frame shorten though. I did the same thing on Tony’s Troopy as far as using the rear wheel wells and body to frame coil buckets to line it all up. We also did the same thing on Johns 79. So basically using this location to start setup from. Curiously, the Troopy is about 1/2” lower than the 79. Other folks have built stink bug into the swap due to the rear coil issue. Then correcting the stink bug with lift. I have never been fond of this route but it does work. Part of the process I try an go through too is making sure the lower body (rocker pinch weld) is the correct height wise on the frame rail. It will look funky with to much frame showing, thing is though, those rear coil buckets pretty much determine everything.

For cab to bed gap, we have the 79 frame here so just measured on that frame rear cab mount to first bed mount.

We are thinking about using the 79 steering box and frame side panhard. We have a brand new 79 steering box that came on the GR chassis. I particularly like the 79 box being farther forward and throwing back. Plus the panhard and box don’t share the same location on the frame thus putting a lot less stress on the frame here. Anyways not sure on this yet, going to finish bed mounts before deciding.

I think you nailed it though for low lift and good tire/wheel combo.

Cheers
Thanks! Getting the body to sit correctly and low as possible on the frame was a big priority. I did exactly what you mentioned above which was measuring from the frame rail to the bottom pinch weld of the cab using a long straight edge and making sure it was even at all four corners of the cab. Once that was done I bolted up the inner and front fenders got them lined up and everything seemed to fall in place for setting the front crossmember. I had to tweak the inner fenders a tad in order for them to clear the front coil buckets.
 
Thanks! Getting the body to sit correctly and low as possible on the frame was a big priority. I did exactly what you mentioned above which was measuring from the frame rail to the bottom pinch weld of the cab using a long straight edge and making sure it was even at all four corners of the cab. Once that was done I bolted up the inner and front fenders got them lined up and everything seemed to fall in place for setting the front crossmember. I had to tweak the inner fenders a tad in order for them to clear the front coil buckets.


Ya same.

028DBF09-2E23-4CA1-95EE-6870C523C9DF.jpeg
2119C24D-6BDF-466D-99F1-BEE846BA7E98.jpeg


Having the 79 frame here makes it interesting. The shock towers on a 79 are lower and also reinforced more. That also means a shorter shock.

Cheers
 
This is like watching a movie where you know it has a cool ending but watching the script develop is still exciting. 😊
Please keep sharing the photos and information.
 
Last edited:
It’s an assbackwards build thread 😄
As the only 79 Series build currently underway / finished on ‘MUD we’ll take it anyway we can get it. 😁
 
As the only 79 Series build currently underway / finished on ‘MUD we’ll take it anyway we can get it. 😁
Might be able to add another one here soon for you :)
 
Getting back on mine too, been too many other projects going on.
92329954-9666-472A-A626-DF2C5C35DC01.jpeg
 
One thing I didn’t mention earlier was while setting the engine I didn’t take enough consideration for the oil filter clearance to the frame rail. I didn’t have an oil filter on at the time of setting the motors mounts. The clearance looked good plus I was already pushing my clearance with the power steering pump on the passenger side. Tried looking for smaller oil filters and just didn’t want to use a relocation kit. I stumbled on a thread in the 80 series section where some members were using the Ford racing oil filter 90 degree adapter. The newer version on accepts Motorcraft filters so since I’m fortunate enough to work in a machine shop I had a guy from work turn down the threads in order to fit Toyota oil filters.

A9E1FCCF-8764-4E92-977A-B6B08BB594F5.jpeg


45457D6A-B52A-46C7-9B87-D00755984CDB.jpeg


B6AD377E-27DA-48E6-80B4-5E4F0A5B0CBE.jpeg


0455E80E-EDC7-4DC3-83F1-14A98372CBCB.jpeg
 
When I started the build I anticipated that I was going to have custom driveshafts made. So while setting the engine and trans I made no attempt at that time to measure for drive shaft lengths to see what might fit. I later found a hzj79 rear driveshaft new pull off and ordered it with the intent of having to get it cut to length. To my surprise it bolted up without having to get the length changed, I couldn’t believe it!

0D9F207C-6F61-4E7B-864A-A7E2392DC6DD.png
 
Looks like you really thought through all aspects. Amazing. Not knowing your timeline of this build, was this preconceived or figured out as you went along? Hard to tell. Either way amazing. Congrats!
 
Looks like you really thought through all aspects. Amazing. Not knowing your timeline of this build, was this preconceived or figured out as you went along? Hard to tell. Either way amazing. Congrats!
I would say a little bit of both. Most was preconceived with a lot of unknowns, a lot of the build took some thought obviously, sometimes I’d spend a week or more stuck on something before I came up with a solution. Most of that was related to fitting or fabricating something. Build took about a year and half, a little more if you count pre-planning just to see if was even possible for me to accomplish and acquire all the necessary parts as well as afford it.
 
Last edited:
I would say a little bit of both. Most was preconceived with a lot of unknowns, a lot of the build took some thought obviously, sometimes I’d spend a week or more stuck on something before I came up with a solution. Most of that was related to fitting or fabricating something. Build took about a year and half, a little more if you count pre-planning just to see if was even possible for me to accomplish and acquire all the necessary parts.
Time well spent it seems. 👍
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom