- Thread starter
- #21
If you are able to remove your key at any time, then there are tumblers hanging up and sticking, or the key is heavily worn.wow, good work.
since you are now the resident expert on all things ignition switch, i'm wondering if you can help shed some light on why i can remove my key from the cylinder with the truck in gear OTHER than Park. in more detail, i can turn the key CCW and hits a stop at ACC, but pushing straight in on the cylinder allows me to continue to rotate to OFF and remove the key.
existing post: Ignition key can pull out of tumbler while in drive - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ignition-key-can-pull-out-of-tumbler-while-in-drive.651792/post-14428427
i have the key interlock solenoid hanging, and can feel the solenoid pin extend during the test scenarios. the solenoid seems to give up some of its strength after ~1sec, and i can push it back in with little effort (which seems to match the FSM test cases). it passes a resistance check per the FSM. i can push up on the spring-loaded stop pin manually, and can't remove the key, but i'm not sure how far the solenoid pushes this stop pin.
so my question to you is, does removing the cylinder give visual access to the spring-loaded pin that the solenoid engages? might just be gummed up?i shot some wd-40 in there but it didnt help.
is removing the cylinder as easy as pushing in the stop pin and pulling the cylinder out? i still have the ignition trim installed (includes key warning switch, light housing, etc).
Yes, removing the key cylinder will allow access to the body of it and you can use electrical contact solvent to wash out the guts of the key cylinder, the relube the tumblers and pins with silicone spray or liquid (dry) spray graphite Then use the key to push in/out and in all positions to make sure the lube is worked into the tumblers well.
It is still possible that even after cleaning and lubing that your key cylinder tumblers are worn or broken and will still allow the key to be removed at any position. if it still does this, then consider taking the key cylinder to a locksmith to have them set up new pins in it. Make sure to take a "new" key or one with little wear on it when you drop it off. It is also possible that you need a new key made that the ground/cut areas are so worn off that it won't stay in. My aftermarket key wears the "square" edges off the body of the key and I can no longer turn the lock. I usually go through at least one key per year (mine's a DD for 15K-20K miles/yr).
Yes, removing the cylinder is truly as easy as inserting the key, turn to ACC, push the button on the bottom of the barrel, and pulling and wiggling until it comes out. I was happily surprised how easy it was considering some of the other brands I have fought with over the years. You can leave all the trim in place. If you have removed the key interlock, then you are close enough to push the button on the bottom of the barrel.
(I used to do doors, locks, and windows for a college maintenance program, so I am quite proficient at keys, locks, and tumblers.)