Builds My GCC Spec 1HD-FTE Converted FZJ100 (2 Viewers)

[Muddy J]

Just to clarify.

Some stuff I forgot to include!

I got a new steering rack that's meant to go into a US spec. There are two different steering racks for 100 series, 44250-60050 and 44250-60060. Looking at the EPC, the ONLY difference between the two assemblies is the valve part #. So, I removed it from the new one and the old one to compare. Aside from the connection at the top (which is cross compatible) they look identical. Maybe the torsion bar is different between the two?? The one on the left is meant for the 2UZ models, the one on the right is for the inline 6, 1FZ/1HD IFS models.

View attachment 1658448

NOTE that removing these is a huge PITA. I regretted it the whole time. I now understand why people don't rebuild these themselves. You need a very specialized tool to remove the nut that holds the valve in place. You also need a 0-30 in-lb torque wrench to set the pre-load properly and a fitting to use it. Took me a while to get it all back together properly. Without these tools, don't even try rebuilding these. I had to make my own...


View attachment 1658447

Here's everything buttoned up. I did A LOT of cleaning under the motor. The sand mixed with the leaked oils and created almost a cement on the motor. It took many many hours to clean everything.

View attachment 1658449

Some stuff I forgot to include!

I got a new steering rack that's meant to go into a US spec. There are two different steering racks for 100 series, 44250-60050 and 44250-60060. Looking at the EPC, the ONLY difference between the two assemblies is the valve part #. So, I removed it from the new one and the old one to compare. Aside from the connection at the top (which is cross compatible) they look identical. Maybe the torsion bar is different between the two?? The one on the left is meant for the 2UZ models, the one on the right is for the inline 6, 1FZ/1HD IFS models.

View attachment 1658448

NOTE that removing these is a huge PITA. I regretted it the whole time. I now understand why people don't rebuild these themselves. You need a very specialized tool to remove the nut that holds the valve in place. You also need a 0-30 in-lb torque wrench to set the pre-load properly and a fitting to use it. Took me a while to get it all back together properly. Without these tools, don't even try rebuilding these. I had to make my own...


View attachment 1658447

Here's everything buttoned up. I did A LOT of cleaning under the motor. The sand mixed with the leaked oils and created almost a cement on the motor. It took many many hours to clean everything.

View attachment 1658449

I too have an HD-T just to be clear you are running a 44260-60050 steering rack?

Please tell me it’s so. The 1HD model steering rack cost a fortune

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Might try Redline MT-90 for the tranny if it’s spec’d for 75W-90 GL-4. I’ve had excellent results with it. The trannys shift very smooth.

GM Synchromesh is also an option and has been recommended me by Sheldon of G&S Cruisers. I've used it for years and the shifting in my H150F is really smooth. Love this thread Nick, well done!

That's great to know! I've been running basic synth 75w90 in it and want to try something a bit better engineered. Do you guys recommend slightly overfilling? And yes, it's spec'd for 75W90 GL-4 and 5.

Do you feel the DS balance made a difference? When I had my u-joints replaced, I asked if they’d do that and they said it wasn’t necessary. Now I have a vibe from 40-45 that definitely wasn’t there.

I did not notice a difference. I have a vibe at 80 km/hr that I can't figure out. I'm starting to think my 3-4 inches of rake might have something to do with it as the DS angle may be off? I'm 19" hub to fender at the front and almost 23" at the rear with both tanks empty. I'll find out after I install my front torsion bars and lift the front up a few inches... Either way, I sent them to the DS shop to check for balance and they indicated that they were slightly out so I asked them to balance anyways...

Looks great with the ARB bumper, Proper Qatari spec

Thanks! It's finally looking proper with the bumper. Maybe you should get an ARB

Just to clarify.



I too have an HD-T just to be clear you are running a 44260-60050 steering rack?

Please tell me it’s so. The 1HD model steering rack cost a fortune ☹

Yes I am running 44250-60050. HOWEVER. I am getting weird steering wheel feedback in 4th gear at 50 km/hr but only when I turn the wheel and ONLY when at speed. It's very weird. I get no noise but it feels like air or something... and my PS reservoir looks wet. I am not sure if its an incorrect install on my part since I filled it from empty or if the 60050 rack is incompatible with the pump. I'm leaning towards install as the rack is essentially identical. If you do go with 60050 please let me know what your results are! And yeah, the cost was more than double for the 60060 rack...

 

[Kaisersosay]

Does your GCC spec LC have metal speaker covers or the standard cloth coverd plastic ones?

 

[thetoyotaman]

I wouldn’t overfill the gear oil. That might create additional problems.

 

[thetoyotaman]

When you see Toyota spec GL-4 and 5 on a manual it’s kindof contradicting as the GL-4 is better for your trans and will shift better.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

When you see Toyota spec GL-4 and 5 on a manual it’s kindof contradicting as the GL-4 is better for your trans and will shift better.

I just filled mine with GL-4 Redline 75w90 and holy crap did it make a difference! 100% recommend even though it costs a fortune.



Big progress today! Finished up my dual battery and fuse block install. I now have a powered CB and 12V rear receptacle for my Dometic fridge. One bit of advice when doing this is keep the wire size big for the fridge. I got a huge voltage drop when the fridge kicked in with 18 gauge wires, so we re ran with 14 gauge and it made a huge difference! My cousin did most of the electrical work and it looks wicked.

This Blue Sea receptacle is a great little unit. This one has the 12 V plug, USB and voltmeter option which should work great for my camping trips. I opted to install it on the storage cover in the case I wanted to move it elsewhere as I would only need to replace the cover instead of the entire quarter panel trim piece.

And I finally get to use my 50 quart Dometic fridge! This thing is huge, I don’t think I could have sprung for the larger units.... especially the 65, it would have been WAY too tall.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I just filled mine with GL-4 Redline 75w90 and holy crap did it make a difference! 100% recommend even though it costs a fortune.

Pretty nice isn’t it.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Well I finally got my ass down to Moab. What an amazing place! And the truck is back in its natural habitat - the desert. Drove a section of White Rim Trail today with my buddy. So cool!

 

[gnarlynick2072]

On the tail end of my trip. Had a blast! Got a few pics of some other places I drove by.

The 100 crossed over 200,000 km driving back into Salt Lake City!

Also got a chance to visit the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum in Salt Lake which was awesome!! Got a chance to meet @cruiserdan as well!

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Got the decals done on the RH side finally and snorkel installed! Gotta figure out how to get the radio antenna fit in there and the RH rear vent didn’t survive so will order a new one and get it sprayed.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Finally got back out camping!

Did a couple shallow river crossings and my AC compressor started making way more noise. Looks like an AC refresh is in my near future. More to come!

 

[gofast]

sliders are next?

 

[gnarlynick2072]

sliders are next?

Yup! Gotta get them powder coated... might overlap with doing valve stem seals.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Well I had some adventures with torsion bars... looks like Toyota had different torsion bars spec'd between inline 6 models and the V8.

Initially, I bought OME 303001 torsion bars. Went to install and they were TOO SHORT. Maybe 1 to 2 inches too short. Turns out I needed OME 303002 which are longer. These are meant for HDJ100 and FZJ100 models. UZJ100 need 303001. Below shows a comparison of the two types.

The bar on the left is the OEM torsion bar from my FZJ100. The middle is the V8 model OME 303001. The bar on the right is the longer OME 303002 bar for inline 6 models.

Also, not only is 303002 longer but it is also 2mm THICKER. See below.


303001

303002

Needless to say, I have a set of brand new V8 OME torsion bars if anyone wants them...


And, here is the truck with the front end finally lifted!!

Lastly, figured out the noise that started occurring after my last outing. It was my AC idler bearing. Removed it from the pulley and bought a replacement bearing from a transmission supply store. Easy and cheap fix and beat the hell out of ordering a new pulley from Partsouq.

 

[gofast]

truck is looking good!

 

[01gxr]

View attachment 1574257

Where are these mounted do you get to them from in cabin or underneath the vehicle I changed my shifter busings and it still moves around quite a bit

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Where are these mounted do you get to them from in cabin or underneath the vehicle I changed my shifter busings and it still moves around quite a bit

They are mounted on the sides of where the shifter is installed on top of the gear box. To install, you have to remove the center console and boots and remove the shifter. I would suggest also removing the cross member and lowering the gearbox slightly so you can access from inside the cabin.

I discovered what causes most of the movement of the "loose" feeling shifter on cruisers in the middle east is the weakened spring that's actually installed on the shifter itself. If you want to tighten that up you will have to buy a new shifter assembly. That's what I did and it feels great. Springs seem to lose a lot of tension over time in hot climates.

 

[01gxr]

They are mounted on the sides of where the shifter is installed on top of the gear box. To install, you have to remove the center console and boots and remove the shifter. I would suggest also removing the cross member and lowering the gearbox slightly so you can access from inside the cabin.

I discovered what causes most of the movement of the "loose" feeling shifter on cruisers in the middle east is the weakened spring that's actually installed on the shifter itself. If you want to tighten that up you will have to buy a new shifter assembly. That's what I did and it feels great. Springs seem to lose a lot of tension over time in hot climates.

Dang it I just mounted the gearbox two days ago looks like I'll have to just live with it

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Had a bit of fun and ordered/installed new bling on the front. Old emblems were looking rough and sun faded. Truck is looking sharper every day!

Also noticed that the LH tire has quite a bit more camber than the RH. Even just looking at the front of the truck, the wheel looks like it's leaning over quite a bit. Not sure why. Maybe the bars leveled out unevenly. I lifted the truck to 21" hub to fender on both sides. Also I have a much bigger vibration happening in the truck AFTER the lift. I don't really understand why as the front drive train is not connected to the wheels due to the manual hubs. So it's either the tire/rim vibrating more because of larger camber OR it's the hub/spindle. I'm at a loss.

 

[Rolocado]

I’d be happy to take those OME TBs off your hands