My FJ40 hand throttle + crusie(r) control (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wantatlc
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fjwagon said:
I believe that the only difference would be whether it is a 4 speed or a 3 speed. The 4 speed transmission is 4"? longer than the 3 speed so the PTO shaft would be about that much longer/shorter. So if you are going from a '76 FJ40 to a 3 speed 45, you will need to shorten the output shaft on the PTO, that is.
Ed
- Thread starter
- #23
78-FJ40 said:
well it depends on a few things. My Choke was disconnected as the new after market Chevy 350 has a 4 barrel carb on it that does not require the Choke use anymore as it is now electric. SO, with a limp Choke cable and knob availble that runs right out the firewall and was just tied out of the way, it was possible for me.
So, for you, as I see it:
1. do you have a Choke and the cable availble that is no longer in use?
2. Does your carb have an attachement at the throttle point?
if so, I do not see why not, unless I miss something here. but I do not know the 78 setup.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
fjwagon said:
Ok, question then, does this mean that it is likely that my cruiser came originally with a PTO? it doesn't have one now. My hand throttle is actually slightly different from the one pictured above, mine is on the right side of the e-brake. Post pics in a second here...
It would appear from looking at pictures above and below my post, that mine has either been moved from the stock location, or was a different factory location. It is very easy to reach, I have used it as cruise, but can't stand it for more than about a minute as I don't like the idea of slamming on the brakes, hitting the clutch and blowing my engine before I get the chance to shut it off. Perhaps my cruiser did not come with a PTO, but the previous owner added a hand throttle in the wrong place.....
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I'm gonna post these pix here, too. Just for completeness' sake! Hopefully someone down the line will find them more easily!
trainrech said:Rationalize all you want. All it takes to shut off conventional cruise control is a tap of my foot, which isn't directly involved with any of the tasks mentioned above. I'm comfortable with your setup as you are in California and I am in Kansas.
Honestly, in a crash sequence I could give a fawk less what my engine RPMs might spike up to. Come awn... Like I'm really going to have time to worry about reaching up to disengage it...
I agree with ya wantatlc, it's no major feat. Just be careful like you already had planned to.
Ya made good use of what ya had. I personally plan to use the bike shifter idea on the stick shift for ease of access. And yup, I'll prolly use it for cruise control, perhaps even more than on the trail.
HAHAHAHA
Man, I just joined in the fun....
Going to my corner now. ;p
Man, I just joined in the fun....
Going to my corner now. ;p
What I meant was that when I pull the choke it revs the engine. The more I pull it, the more it revs. What I'm wondering, is if the way that the choke revs the engine is different then if a hand throttle is hooked up? Will it flood a warm engine or is the choke simply sending more gas to the carb like a hand throttle?
wantatlc said:
78-FJ40 said:
The choke restricts airflow into the carburetor and engine, thus, enriching the fuel/air mixture making it theoretically easier to start in a colder climate, or when the engine is not at operating temperature. There is linkage connected to the choke that when actuated, opens the throttle plate a little bit, and also helps with increasing the engine rpm’s. While the engine rpm’s are increased with the choke, the engine is also operating in a no-load situation, making it easy to sustain the higher rpm’s. If you were to add load to the engine, the rpm’s fall off, as there is not fuel and air entering the engine to support the load.
The hand throttle is connected to the throttle linkage or to the system that actuates it at some point, and only controls the engine rpm’s and available power and does not have any effect on the air/fuel mixture as the choke does.
Good luck!
-Steve
fjwagon
SILVER Star
Good to know, thanks. But I was planing to use a 4 speed......I heard someone a while back converted the 3 speed shifter to accept a 4 speed tranny to work in the same fanshion. Anyhow this what I'm hoping. I also that the 4 speed will sit higher than the 3 speed tranny...enough of me rambling. Thanks for the info.
Degnol said:
fjwagon said:
If you are talking about the pto shifter lever and pivot, you should be able to remove it from the three speed shifter cover and thread the pivot into the four speed tranny top cover, as there is a provision for it on the top of the tranny.
looking at the pics of the connection at the throttle, it would appear that a wing (not the best of terms) could be attached to the brake pedal arm that the cable to the throttle would pass through. A Stop on the cable could pull the throttle off (cable handle pulled back in) when the brake is depressed.
I don't know what ya'll do in a panic situation, but I usually hit the brake and the clutch when something happens, unless i have to power through an obsticle. In either case, a hand throttle will be negated if used as a cruise. I don't see the big deal.
Horsehead said:
Depressing the clutch pedal with the engine running, under load at 2500 or 2000 rpms, will cause it to over speed and possibly cause damage, if you do not release your hand throttle…
not that I really want to be one to perpetuate this crap...
fjwagon
SILVER Star
Steve, actually the pto I removed came from a 76 4 speed tranny and yes there is existing threads that will allow this installation. The wagon I have now is currently in 3 speed configuration and So this brings me to the idea about installing 4 speed tranny AND you may already know the answer to this question: ( I think this has already been done and has been discussed on the pirate forum if I remember correctly or was it on the toyota trails ) I would like to retain the old style style 3 speed shifter located on the steering colum and install a 4 speed tranny...... can I convert it so I can still keep the original setup and still be able to shift all 4 gears using the 4 speed tranny.
QUOTE=Poser]If you are talking about the pto shifter lever and pivot, you should be able to remove it from the three speed shifter cover and thread the pivot into the four speed tranny top cover, as there is a provision for it on the top of the tranny.
[/QUOTE]
) I would like to retain the old style style 3 speed shifter located on the steering colum and install a 4 speed tranny...... can I convert it so I can still keep the original setup and still be able to shift all 4 gears using the 4 speed tranny. QUOTE=Poser]If you are talking about the pto shifter lever and pivot, you should be able to remove it from the three speed shifter cover and thread the pivot into the four speed tranny top cover, as there is a provision for it on the top of the tranny.
[/QUOTE]
dgangle
total rice
I've used the choke cable for a fast idle/poor-man's cruise control since 1985, man I feel old. Like anything else, when driving you gotta think about what's going on. I love these spirited debates, but remember......
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Good Grief!
There's an OEM dashboard hand throttle in my '65, and it's an option maybe, or OEM for my '77 gasser, and it's stock in my '77 diesel. Anyway, hand throttles are nothing new and have been in cars of various models since the model T Ford.
You kinda' need it with a PTO winch, but it's a neat thing to have anyway and I've driven with them for years and was taught that it could be a cruise control before there WERE cruise controls, almost It's the only way to get a little sleep when plowing fields on a tractor all through the live long day!
FjWagon, If your PTO driveline came from an FJ40 it'll be too short for your truck. I'm not sure if it applies to what you have but the FJ55 had a two piece driveline with an intermediate trunnion mounted bearing at the split mounted to the side of the frame at about where the firewall line comes down. There are drawings of the setup in most FJ40 FSM's, I think, and in the Gregory's diesel manual. For some reason the FJ45 lv type, or troopies aren't shown but it's probably all generic.
There's an OEM dashboard hand throttle in my '65, and it's an option maybe, or OEM for my '77 gasser, and it's stock in my '77 diesel. Anyway, hand throttles are nothing new and have been in cars of various models since the model T Ford.
You kinda' need it with a PTO winch, but it's a neat thing to have anyway and I've driven with them for years and was taught that it could be a cruise control before there WERE cruise controls, almost
It's the only way to get a little sleep when plowing fields on a tractor all through the live long day!FjWagon, If your PTO driveline came from an FJ40 it'll be too short for your truck. I'm not sure if it applies to what you have but the FJ55 had a two piece driveline with an intermediate trunnion mounted bearing at the split mounted to the side of the frame at about where the firewall line comes down. There are drawings of the setup in most FJ40 FSM's, I think, and in the Gregory's diesel manual. For some reason the FJ45 lv type, or troopies aren't shown but it's probably all generic.
Hand throttle was optional in some years, I believe.
I got one from a later model (not available for my '72), since I use it wheeling.
A used pedal with tab and plastic holder already attached costs $25 from SOR. Personally, knowing what I know now, I would likely buy it new ($75). The reason would be that the bolt on which the pedal moves in its own bracket develops groves with time and the pedal has sideways play as a result of that (and in my truck used to hit the tranny hump rather than go down straight). With a new pedal, those groves are gone. Alternatively, creative placement of appropriate thickness washers helps as well
I got one from a later model (not available for my '72), since I use it wheeling.
A used pedal with tab and plastic holder already attached costs $25 from SOR. Personally, knowing what I know now, I would likely buy it new ($75). The reason would be that the bolt on which the pedal moves in its own bracket develops groves with time and the pedal has sideways play as a result of that (and in my truck used to hit the tranny hump rather than go down straight). With a new pedal, those groves are gone. Alternatively, creative placement of appropriate thickness washers helps as well
honk said:
Perhaps some did, but the 1976 I have does not have the shaft configured this way. The hanger bearing and connecting shaft to the winch is a longer assembly compared to the 40 set up....otherwise the shaft is similar to the set up in my 03/72-40.
