My first FJ40 “Carolin 2.” (build)

Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Messages
3,139
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Alva, Fl.
Flushing the coolant and taking the heater out. All new hoses. It’s cold so this should be fun 😬.

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Most easy to flush the system with other than expensive "fantastic cooling system flush" products--simply use Cascade dishwasher powder or their liquid cleaner--For the liquid mix 2 capsulles of dishwasher cleaner to 1 gallon of water-dissolve thoroughly then filter the liquid thru a standard coffee filter-add to an empty cooling system. fill remaining volume with clear water(make sure to "burp" the system to get all air out. Start the engine and run till operating temp is obtained(thermostat open-run for at least 30 mins(best to take the rig for a drive)--When engine has cooled, drain the system(don't forget the block drain!)
Refill with clear water. Start and run up to op temp again--stop and let cool enough to drain. Refill with the coolant you choose(burp the system to get all air out) ---you should be good to go---If you don't use the Cascade liquid but use the powder, just make sure to get it all dissolved in hot water first--filter the same, and follow the same regimen----you will not believe the gunk this will take out of the cooling system!!
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
Heater is out now all needs to go back.
Very nice find! This appears to be a solid truck--What's really cool is you have the history of your new rig--Check out Toyota South Atlanta for parts--I didn't look yet but they may have the carb hot air intake parts--look at their online parts catalogue-(Mr. Kyle Edwards was their Parts mgr for a while--offered discount to MUD members-think they still offer this--one of Beno's legacy innovations



Thanks will give them a call
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
Broken bolt in the thermostat housing 🙄. I knew that’s the case and was very careful but happened. It stuck in the top housing. Any help would be appreciated

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Joined
May 9, 2021
Messages
903
Location
Texas Coast
Broken bolt in the thermostat housing 🙄. I knew that’s the case and was very careful but happened. It stuck in the top housing. Any help would be appreciated

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The best approach that I have seen is welding the inside of a nut to the sheared off bolt and wrenching it out. Absent having access to a welder you can try an Easyout or left handed drill bit but I had very mixed results.
 

cruisermatt

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New upper/lower housings are not very expensive (we keep them in stock) if you have an issue with that corrosion on the bypass outlet in the future
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
Question: Do you guys just use the OEM gasket for the thermostat housing or do you add some more gasket makers?
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2015
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465
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Arkansas USA
Just found this thread today. Began reading and at post # 11 I spit Sonic Coke through my nose when I read you might liner that beauty. I read the rest of the thread with a nauseating feeling. When I got to the pic of the floor with no liner I was finally relieved. You have some guys salivating over that 40. It is a remarkable find and you seem to be doing it justice. Most of us don’t start with such an original rig. We are living through your project.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
Just found this thread today. Began reading and at post # 11 I spit Sonic Coke through my nose when I read you might liner that beauty. I read the rest of the thread with a nauseating feeling. When I got to the pic of the floor with no liner I was finally relieved. You have some guys salivating over that 40. It is a remarkable find and you seem to be doing it justice. Most of us don’t start with such an original rig. We are living through your project.
Thanks, I sometimes fall off the track and go wild with stuff. That's why I am here, and I appreciate others' advice to get me back on track.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
All the seat are in, the heater is painted, and all the foams are changed. The radiator is in just running it to get the air out.

Time for the first oil change decided to go with GTX will see what happens.

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Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
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Virginia
The back part is not a spray liner it's just a wrap that I found. It can be used as a bed liner very paint friendly and come off very easy with some heat. Good stuff.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
Changed the front calipers and the brake robber hoses to stainless steel hoses. I was going to rebuild the master cylinder, but there are gouges inside it, so I have to wait for a new one to come.

While waiting took out the tie rods and the linkage to put new stuff on it. Hate waiting for shipping.

I don't know if it is me, or do the websites with FJ parts charge ridiculous amounts for shipping?

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Jul 18, 2022
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Kantucke
I did not see PTO as option on the dealer invoice. In 76, you wouldn't have had the PTO gear in the T case, only the spacer. It's likely that the only thing you have PTO related on the truck is just the winch head. The picture you have of the control lever has the early style PTO control knob, indicating that one of the PO's probably purchased this as a take off and realized they couldn't easily install it on their truck. In the plastic bin is the "pillow block" bearing for the driveline, and linkage parts. I have installed the complete setup on a 75' and its not a simple plug and play ordeal. It IS possible to install the gear by pulling the T case only, but its not for the faint of heart. The driveshaft will need lengthened, and your trans tunnel cut. I can assist with more detail if you choose to finish install.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
83
Location
Virginia
I did not see PTO as option on the dealer invoice. In 76, you wouldn't have had the PTO gear in the T case, only the spacer. It's likely that the only thing you have PTO related on the truck is just the winch head. The picture you have of the control lever has the early style PTO control knob, indicating that one of the PO's probably purchased this as a take off and realized they couldn't easily install it on their truck. In the plastic bin is the "pillow block" bearing for the driveline, and linkage parts. I have installed the complete setup on a 75' and its not a simple plug and play ordeal. It IS possible to install the gear by pulling the T case only, but its not for the faint of heart. The driveshaft will need lengthened, and your trans tunnel cut. I can assist with more detail if you choose to finish install
Yes, the more I look at it the more difficult it gets. Once I get the truck running the way I like and take it offroad a few times, I will attempt to get it done mainly because I have all parts, and I think it's cool to have. probably next year 😁
 

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