My Desmog Thread

FJ40Jim

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i'm using a stock, not recurved distributor. Ive been going back and forth with running the advance line to the outside or the inside diaphram on the vacuum advance. Initially I had the advance set at 7 degrees, with vac line to the inner primary advance port. It ran better when I ran the advancer line to the outer port. I then tried to advance timing to about 11 degrees and use the outer advance port, which it runs really well with no pinging, but I do get some dieseling on shutdown. Im thinking since I havent had a recurve that the outer secondary port on the dizzy helps limit total advance, but where would initial advance be best set at?
An unmodified dissy with a worn limit pin has too much advance, too soon. Do not set the base timing higher than 7*BTDC.
 
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I de-smogged my 60 and have been very happy for a few months now. But, I started to notice I had to be careful because my engine would ping if i put too much load on it. So I pulled the distributor and was goign to upgrade the springs, with the MSD kit. No big deal until the during the disassembly stage the bearing ring thing came apart.
Frustrated I decided to buy the city racer non usa distributor (61180) to run figuring its a Toyota part and it will get the job done I know its not waterproof and it has points but it will have to do until I can get my stock distributor sent to out to and re curved by Jim C, if its even salvageable.

So ultimately do I need a new coil to go with this?

My question is the stock 60 distributor has vent tubes and 2 vacuum advance ports. What do I do with the vent tubes just simply block them off?

How do I address the one port vacuum advance?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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I de-smogged my 60 and have been very happy for a few months now. But, I started to notice I had to be careful because my engine would ping if i put too much load on it. So I pulled the distributor and was goign to upgrade the springs, with the MSD kit. No big deal until the during the disassembly stage the bearing ring thing came apart.
Frustrated I decided to buy the city racer non usa distributor (61180) to run figuring its a Toyota part and it will get the job done I know its not waterproof and it has points but it will have to do until I can get my stock distributor sent to out to and re curved by Jim C, if its even salvageable.

So ultimately do I need a new coil to go with this?

My question is the stock 60 distributor has vent tubes and 2 vacuum advance ports. What do I do with the vent tubes just simply block them off?

How do I address the one port vacuum advance?

Any help would be appreciated.

OK, since nobody has answered, I will take a stab. I dont know anything about the city racer distributor, but I would think the stock coil is fine. Why not fix the advancer ring on your stock distributor? If you have lost bearings, you could go to a bicycle shop and buy loose bearings, hold them in place with a dab of grease and reassemble. If using the city racer dizzy then just block off the distributor ventilation hoses. Attach the vacuum advance line from the larger inner diaphram to the advancer on the city racer, and plug off the other one.
 
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OK, since nobody has answered, I will take a stab. I dont know anything about the city racer distributor, but I would think the stock coil is fine. Why not fix the advancer ring on your stock distributor? If you have lost bearings, you could go to a bicycle shop and buy loose bearings, hold them in place with a dab of grease and reassemble. If using the city racer dizzy then just block off the distributor ventilation hoses. Attach the vacuum advance line from the larger inner diaphram to the advancer on the city racer, and plug off the other one.

Thanks for the reply, that should get me pointed in the right direction at least with the vacuum hose routing. I have read that if you use the pertronics conversion, it is plug and play witht he stock coil set up. Also, I have heard I might need a new coil with a ballast? The distributor should be delivered, according to the tracking, tomorrow.

I will start probably install it in the block once it gets here and start working on the wireing and vaccum hoses it Friday or Saturday and post up a confirmation on the wiring, coil and the vacuum hose routing. I think this will have some value for those who might have opted for this distributor while wating for the stock one to get re curved.

As for fixing the old dissy, the main issue is the bearing ring separated in two and the bottom half is not separating from the distributor itself. I think I have all the bearings I had the forethouht of thinking that I might try to fix it so I have it soaking in PD Blast to try to persuade it.
 
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Thanks for the reply, that should get me pointed in the right direction at least with the vacuum hose routing. I have read that if you use the pertronics conversion, it is plug and play witht he stock coil set up. Also, I have heard I might need a new coil with a ballast? The distributor should be delivered, according to the tracking, tomorrow.

I will start probably install it in the block once it gets here and start working on the wireing and vaccum hoses it Friday or Saturday and post up a confirmation on the wiring, coil and the vacuum hose routing. I think this will have some value for those who might have opted for this distributor while wating for the stock one to get re curved.

As for fixing the old dissy, the main issue is the bearing ring separated in two and the bottom half is not separating from the distributor itself. I think I have all the bearings I had the forethouht of thinking that I might try to fix it so I have it soaking in PD Blast to try to persuade it.
Ive never used the pertronix kit on a Landcruiser but have used it on Alfa Romeos and BMWs and it worked great with the stock coil. I did put an MSD box on the Alfa and it made a huge difference over just the Pertronix and the stock coil. Not sure about the Landcruiser or needing a ballast, but I would say, try it and see.
 

FJ40Jim

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Is the original dissy out of the engine yet? It sounds like there is some corrosion going on between the AL dissy and the steel parts, like the bearing ring and possibly the block. Remove the holddown bolt, scrape away the schmutz and soak the dissy/block interface with penetrant. Try twisting dissy, then pull out if it twist freely.

The bearing ring can be repaired or replaced if necessary during a recurve.
 
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Is the original dissy out of the engine yet? It sounds like there is some corrosion going on between the AL dissy and the steel parts, like the bearing ring and possibly the block. Remove the holddown bolt, scrape away the schmutz and soak the dissy/block interface with penetrant. Try twisting dissy, then pull out if it twist freely.

The bearing ring can be repaired or replaced if necessary during a recurve.
You nailed it, the dissy has the corrosion between the AL and steel, on the plus side it came out of the block fine. But, it was the bearing ring that came apart. I just got the other distributor minutes ago in the mail. I am at a loss of how the wires go to the coil. I read in one thread on here you recommended using a NKG U1163 coil for the 61180 distributor? Sound familiar. I also read someone made it work with the stock coil and igniter. Any help on wiring this distributor up would be nice so I can get back on the road. I drive my cruiser to work daily and my wife drives our Tacoma so having a car down for more than a week is not going to work. At some point I would like to send the old distributor to you to get recurved.
 
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You nailed it, the dissy has the corrosion between the AL and steel, on the plus side it came out of the block fine. But, it was the bearing ring that came apart. I just got the other distributor minutes ago in the mail. I am at a loss of how the wires go to the coil. I read in one thread on here you recommended using a NKG U1163 coil for the 61180 distributor? Sound familiar. I also read someone made it work with the stock coil and igniter. Any help on wiring this distributor up would be nice so I can get back on the road. I drive my cruiser to work daily and my wife drives our Tacoma so having a car down for more than a week is not going to work. At some point I would like to send the old distributor to you to get recurved.
I think your Pertronix will work with the stock coil. Lots of youtube videos on installing these things. Only 2 wires as I recall.
 
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I think your Pertronix will work with the stock coil. Lots of youtube videos on installing these things. Only 2 wires as I recall.
I ended up gettin a generic 12v internal resister coil from Napa, I think they said it was cross refrenced from a 1980 alfa spider which as points so it should work. I just need to wire it up. The distributor has 2 wires, one ground and one lead (both black. I am using this as a reference:
Wiring a Non-US Dizzy

Later today I am going to sort through the wiring from the original coil and igniter to figure out where those wires connect get connected and hopefully come up with a stockish connection system so I can use the original coil and igniter later after I get the original distributor re curved.

I am hoping to create a system where when I buy a second 60 :) I can desmog it hook up this ignition and send the original out to get recurved.
 
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Installed everything, left the ground wire from the distributor off (black one) ran a wire from the grey plug o the positive on the coil. Ran the wires in the harness that went to the original coil pos and neg accordingly. Capped off all the vacuum ports on the gas filter. This gets rid of the vacuum line going to the HAC and the old distributor vent. Capped the HAC plug not used.

Confirmed TDC and the distributor is in right and builds oil pressure when cranking, but it wont start.

Used a test light and both pos and neg poles on the coil have power but when I pull the coil wire and hold it near a grounded metal there is no spark...

I am at a loss tomorrow I am returning the coil for a new one.
 
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Do you really need the ballast resistor? I thought that was for cars with points and condenser.....In not sure about that though. Something to check.
Its a points and condenser distributor. I bought a multi-meter and determined the coil was the issue was it had nothing cumming out of the main lead wire going to the cap. I ended up ordering a coil off TPI, should be here Friday? I will keep everyone posted if I can get it running with the changes made.
 
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HI
I'm in mid desmog right now. I've figured I'm way in over my head right now and help would be gratefull s its sitting in my friends shop taking up room .So a little background .....I'm also installing a Used Weber carb set up ( from Another members Fj60 all set up) at the same time. All instructions I've read are for rebuild/modified Factory carb and distributor, So my major questions are:
Question 1: What does my lay out look like for vacuum lines? specifically the HIC and HAI ? any diagrams for that? I don't really care for the High altitude as i live in southern Ontario Canada but if i can keep it with much fuss i would.
Question 2: LC is from the U.S . I read about the recurve . if i were to get Canadian LC distributor would that work?
Question 3: Should i just Go mechanical HEI Distributor . they've all seemed really expensive.
Question 4: anywhere on here have instruction for Weber carb install with gas pedal ?

Like I said earlier , in way over my head but i know i can get it done with some guidance.

Thanks
 
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There are some pictures out there...I did it on mine that show in detail the line connections...best thing is to only remove one at a time after you have decided what to remove and what to replace or modify. Also, why are you putting on a Weber? The Aisin carb is superior and not hard to rebuild and set up..... Rebuild kits and even persons that will rebuild it for you are on here. I have an old thread on my FJ60 where I replaced all the lines with bright blue silicone and such. If I can find it will give a link....but sold my last Land Cruiser a few years ago...so dont visit here often.
 

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HI
I'm in mid desmog right now. I've figured I'm way in over my head right now and help would be gratefull s its sitting in my friends shop taking up room .So a little background .....I'm also installing a Used Weber carb set up ( from Another members Fj60 all set up) at the same time. All instructions I've read are for rebuild/modified Factory carb and distributor, So my major questions are:
Question 1: What does my lay out look like for vacuum lines? specifically the HIC and HAI ? any diagrams for that? I don't really care for the High altitude as i live in southern Ontario Canada but if i can keep it with much fuss i would.
Question 2: LC is from the U.S . I read about the recurve . if i were to get Canadian LC distributor would that work?
Question 3: Should i just Go mechanical HEI Distributor . they've all seemed really expensive.
Question 4: anywhere on here have instruction for Weber carb install with gas pedal ?

Like I said earlier , in way over my head but i know i can get it done with some guidance.

Thanks

1. Read the thread, it's clearly laid out, but to make it easy on you...HIC just uses vacuum off the PCV line as usual and connects to the HIC unit on air cleaner. No change at all there...For HAI, search here, it was JUST brought up again, its rather simple to keep as its NOT an emissions related device.
2. Recurve is good, send an OEM distributor to @FJ40Jim or run the primary advance vac line to the outer port of advance unit. This is mentioned a few pages back.
3. No. OEM is far superior again. Make sure it has the distributor stop pin in place. Then retime the truck.
4. Ditch Weber, those things are junk as @Brock said

Desmog is very simple, you just need to have the block off plates for EGR, plugs for air injection nozzles and a number of vacuum caps.

Reread the document on here a few times, study the vacuum diagram. You'll get it, just takes some time to grasp it all. Once you do, it's really simple.
 
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There are some pictures out there...I did it on mine that show in detail the line connections...best thing is to only remove one at a time after you have decided what to remove and what to replace or modify. Also, why are you putting on a Weber? The Aisin carb is superior and not hard to rebuild and set up..... Rebuild kits and even persons that will rebuild it for you are on here. I have an old thread on my FJ60 where I replaced all the lines with bright blue silicone and such. If I can find it will give a link....but sold my last Land Cruiser a few years ago...so dont visit here often.


Tried looking through this thread for pics of DESMOG / Weber carb set up.... but trying to find explanations as well.
to make a long story short: bought truck in terrible shape, took years to fix just the body, did enough for it to run and get it road worthy, bought the Desmog and Weber carb 2 years ago . And since having 2 weeks off due to this virus going around i need to plug at it.

Ive already took the factory Carb off. rough shape. ill keep it and rebuilt it for now But for now i have to use the weber
 
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yeah the actual desmog is e
1. Read the thread, it's clearly laid out, but to make it easy on you...HIC just uses vacuum off the PCV line as usual and connects to the HIC unit on air cleaner. No change at all there...For HAI, search here, it was JUST brought up again, its rather simple to keep as its NOT an emissions related device.
2. Recurve is good, send an OEM distributor to @FJ40Jim or run the primary advance vac line to the outer port of advance unit. This is mentioned a few pages back.
3. No. OEM is far superior again. Make sure it has the distributor stop pin in place. Then retime the truck.
4. Ditch Weber, those things are junk as @Brock said

Desmog is very simple, you just need to have the block off plates for EGR, plugs for air injection nozzles and a number of vacuum caps.

Reread the document on here a few times, study the vacuum diagram. You'll get it, just takes some time to grasp it all. Once you do, it's really simple.

Ive been trying to look through this thrad ... 56 pages take time lol . The actual desmog is straight forward. but for now i think im stuck with the Weber becuase im sure JimC is a busy guy. the vacum line routing diagrams dont seem bad either ... just figuring WITH the weber carb what happens to the HIC valve and HAI dispharm since i wouldn't have the air box on there anymore and do i have to plug those ends if i have to delete.
 
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Tried looking through this thread for pics of DESMOG / Weber carb set up.... but trying to find explanations as well.
to make a long story short: bought truck in terrible shape, took years to fix just the body, did enough for it to run and get it road worthy, bought the Desmog and Weber carb 2 years ago . And since having 2 weeks off due to this virus going around i need to plug at it.

Ive already took the factory Carb off. rough shape. ill keep it and rebuilt it for now But for now i have to use the weber

In theory you should cap the gas vents ( 3 tubes comming out of the intake manifold) in front of the carb and then the webber should have a vacuum line that you hook up to the distributor (you will need a new one I dont think stock wil work with a webber) Ditch all the EGR stuff, get a new pully or gut the smog pump. Need some sort of small filter for the vent (dont know the name) on the valve cover and cap the port by the PVC valve that went to the HAI, put the plugs in the 2 vacuum valves in radiator .
 
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In theory you should cap the gas vents ( 3 tubes comming out of the intake manifold) in front of the carb and then the webber should have a vacuum line that you hook up to the distributor. Ditch all the EGR stuff, get a new pully or gut the smog pump. Need some sort of small filter for the vent (dont know the name) on the valve cover and cap the port by the PVC valve that went to the HAI. Oh yeah you will need a new Dissy.
Sorry i forgot to mention I have the Desmog kit with the pulley and plugs and plates. I have pretty much taken everything except for the EGR cooler and pipe.

Im guessing i just delete the HAI and HIC and cap of the the vaccum line that goes to the split at the PVC ?
 

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