My CCOT Quarter Panel Patches Arrived Today (1 Viewer)

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Moby

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Just a heads up - CCOT is making these again. When I ordered a few weeks back I asked them why they had discontinued them. Their previous process was having some problems and they were ending up with some waves. They wanted to get the new process solid before they offered them again.

I won't get around to installing these until probably next fall but this officially starts the parts hoarding for the body rebuild :D
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I just recently saw those on their site...are they all that? they seem nice...does the thicker gauge (20 vs. 18 I think) make it seem like it will be a tough weld?

I was wondering if the 60's folks knew about these.
 
They do seem nice and others that have installed them thought that the fit and quality was good. I've never heard a bad thing about CCOT panels. That is why I went with CCOT over the couple of other vendors that also make quarter patches even though the others are cheaper. Not saying that the others aren't good, but I've not talked to anyone that has used anything but the CCOT panels.

I don't think that the 18ga to 20ga should make for a tougher weld than 20 to 20. I'm going to TIG it. I've been practicing my sheetmetal technique. I've got some practicing to go before I start the real thing :hillbilly: but so far the trick for me is perfect alignment of the pieces. Any gaps makes it way easier to burn through just one side (and with no gap you hardly need any filler at all). So getting the cut line perfect will be the key...


edit: Not sure on shipping prices for just the quarters because I bought their molded full carpet kit as well so my shipping was for all of it. The quarters come nicely packaged and padded in a surprisingly small box so I wouldn't think that they would be that spendy to ship.
 
20 guage is thinner than 18. It would be difficult to weld with a mig, based on thickness, unless you had quite a bit of practice. Burn through would be very easy on something that thin. As for the price....seems like a hell of alot.
 
You can certainly get somewhat cheaper quarters ($100-$200 less) but no one that I could find has seen or used either of these. So the question for me was order sight unseen or pay a little more for something with some history? Also consider that the initial lower cost may not be lower in the end if the quality is lower and requires more finishing work/time. Again, not saying that either of these are lesser quality, just that they aren't as known. I chose to pay a little more but each to their own.

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20 guage is thinner than 18. It would be difficult to weld with a mig, based on thickness, unless you had quite a bit of practice. Burn through would be very easy on something that thin. As for the price....seems like a hell of alot.

Good thing that I'm not planning on using MIG :D I've been practicing my thin sheetmetal TIG skills on 22ga using a .040 tungsten, gas lens, .030 solid core MIG wire for filler, and experimenting with pulsing (both long wavelength, like .5 cycles per second, and high, more like 20-50 cycles per second). Also hammer welding (hammering the weld with a body hammer and dolly to work the heat zone and help keep it flat as it cools).

I definitely still have a ways to go to get my skills were I want them before I start but if I get the cut/fit right I'm feeling pretty good that this will turn out OK with minimum filler required.
 
Good thing that I'm not planning on using MIG :D I've been practicing my thin sheetmetal TIG skills on 22ga using a .040 tungsten, gas lens, .030 solid core MIG wire for filler, and experimenting with pulsing (both long wavelength, like .5 cycles per second, and high, more like 20-50 cycles per second). Also hammer welding (hammering the weld with a body hammer and dolly to work the heat zone and help keep it flat as it cools).

I definitely still have a ways to go to get my skills were I want them before I start but if I get the cut/fit right I'm feeling pretty good that this will turn out OK with minimum filler required.

Yep, I knew you were doing tig, just posted that for the benefit of those considering mig welding. You'd definitely want something to back up the weld. I've done alot of those wheelwells, but always made my own pieces. I wish you the best, looking forward to the pics!
 
I agree with Iceman that is just nuts. Especially since the value of the 60's has dropped so much. Check out Wolf Steel where you can get the whole back quarter including the dog leg for about $500 for the pair.
 
I agree with Iceman that is just nuts. Especially since the value of the 60's has dropped so much. Check out Wolf Steel where you can get the whole back quarter including the dog leg for about $500 for the pair.

I posted the link to the Wolf panels above with an explanation as to why I didn't go that route.
 
Yep, I knew you were doing tig, just posted that for the benefit of those considering mig welding. You'd definitely want something to back up the weld. I've done alot of those wheelwells, but always made my own pieces. I wish you the best, looking forward to the pics!

Yeah, I'm definitely going to back it up to be safe, and do real short sections (.5"-1") at a time. Eastwood makes a nice little copper backup plate with an arm with a magnet on the end, I'm going to pick that up and see how it works.
 
I picked went junkyard surfing last weekend and came up with:
1. New front right quarter panel, immaculate, $175
2. New rear right side of truck, cut off at middle of rear door and middle of rear right window, $225.

I am still looking for left front and rear, but I will do it the same way. This way I know I can just bolt on a perfect new front, and do half the welding I would do using fixer panels. That being said, whoever I get to do the back will have to cut my donor panels and weld them to the old panels in such a way as to get them aligned perfectly; that won't be easy. Anyone have any tips on the best place to make the cut? I was thinking as high up as the contour line just below the gas cap area, just because that straight line might be easier, but it would also be more visible there if they did mess up.

Sorry about the hijack, I just thought someone else might want to know the going rate for straight replacement panels from a junkyard vice the route you went.
 
Anyone have any tips on the best place to make the cut? I was thinking as high up as the contour line just below the gas cap area, just because that straight line might be easier, but it would also be more visible there if they did mess up.

I would use as little of the panel as you need and try to weld near parts of the panel that have some shape. The added structure of a bead, bend or fold will help resist warpage when you weld, and sheetmetal this thin really wants to warp. Welding straight across the middle is certainly doable but I would plan on backing the weld line up with a backing plate (usually copper) to help absorb heat and you may want to hammer weld as well. Just my .02cents, I'm certainly not a pro at this.

BTW - no need for the hijack apology. If I could have gotten a clean local custom cut I would likely have done just that. OEM panels are going the best fit. :cheers:
 

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